Intermittent coolant leak- what's this? (Picture)

[pretendfarmer]

Well, I've pretty much passed through all the stages of grief on this thread and have reached acceptance that I won't have my tractor for another week. After thinking about things all night last night, and looking at what's available on Craigslist (there are some nice tractors), I will give this thing another shot and see if it can't provide me with some decent service. If it continues to break down, I will have to make a change. I suppose I am a little concerned that I will continue to pour money down a rathole which would be better spent by selling this off and cutting my losses now, and buying something much newer albeit more expensive. It is hard to anticipate potential problems. I don't like how rusty a lot of the bolts are, but only the smaller ones seem to be a problem.

I actually am quite fond of the little tractor if it would just provide me with some reliable service. We will see how things go. I am thinking about just ordering the solenoid and having it overnighted, but then I wonder if I should just bite the bullet and order a whole new starter with solenoid. I mean, my luck the starter will take a dump right after I buy the solenoid. If I bought the package, then I would have the old starter as a backup if needed. Never a bad thing to have some extra parts. Thoughts?

 

[careyo63]

I bought my 2000 ASIS 6yrs. ago and had a few issues I had to take care of and the Starter was one of them. It was also the only time It went out of use since I owned it. And Tech. I could have Roll started it if I had to. I was able to clean it up and it lasted until 5/11 over 3 yrs.. When it Finally gave out! I had it Rebuilt for 72.76$ with a new Solenoid. I know the Brushes were Gone they commented on it and someone appeared, Reversed the Brushes and there was "Nothing" left of them. While your waiting on parts may want to check out Rebuilding it. Just don't say Yanmar tell them It came off a JD. :2cents:
Once you get all the Problems taken care of your be well versed on how to keep it in operating condition. which for me is been just Maint. besides the Starter, My time and a Axel Seal.

 

[pretendfarmer]

Thought I would update this thread. Weather has been absolutely awful around here. Record rains have really put a damper on my plans. I finally got the new radiator, new hoses, new starter solenoid and battery cable installed. Filled her up with coolant, a roughly 25% coolant/75% water mix. Went to fire her up and..... nothing. Dead battery. Weird since the thing sat all winter just fine. Put the jumper cables on her and she will turn over but not fire. This thing has always fired right up. I have absolutely no idea why she won't, but I'm guessing I'm not getting fuel. Wow. Not sure where to go with this new development.

 

[pretendfarmer]

I've got fuel TO the injection pump from the filter which is clean and full. It has always cranked a little slow, but always fired off. Not sure if this slow crank is part of the problem. I didn't buy the starter with solenoid because I've already sunk so much cash in this thing. Regardless, I don't think the slow crank is a starter issue. Might have to buy a new battery, not sure. But hooked up to my Cummins diesel it should crank as fast as it can.

 

[California]

Are you using the compression release while the starter spins it up to starting rpm?

What do you see at the tailpipe as you crank - white unburned fuel vapor, black combustion smog - ??

 

[pretendfarmer]

Thanks for the reply, California. I actually figured it out from another one of your posts in an old thread. The previous owner of this tractor did not know how to correctly start it, and without an operator's manual I had really no idea what I was doing, either. It's a wonder I ever got the thing started in the first place. He was just starting it without the compression release, and it was always slow to crank. I was using the compression release to get oil through the system, but then I would stop cranking, turn off the compression release, and then crank it normally. Well, that was always working before, but not now. I found your post here which made me realize I needed to let go of the compression release WHILE cranking. I owe you bigtime for that:

I agree, drain the fuel system until fresh fuel reaches the pump. And replace the filter if that seems needed. But the dealer-recommended air bleed process is as follows:

Open the bleed screw at the fuel filter inlet, let it drain until no more air comes out. Close it. Open the bleed screw on the outlet side of the filter, bleed, close. Same at the bleed screw down at the injector pump inlet. But - for bleeding air, there is nothing gained by opening the high pressure lines at the injectors. Maybe in this case it would help purge contaminated fuel but generally it is unnecessary and won't help.

Verify that the Thermostart reservoir has fresh fuel in it. Take off the air cleaner and verify that the TS module creates a small flame, or at least makes fuel vapor. (TS is an option, not needed in pleasant weather).

After warming the manifold with the TS, spin the engine with compression released, close the release and keep cranking. The inertia of the flywheel added to the starter's torque should help it turn fast enough to start.

If it ran ok when parked that's all it should need. These are simple engines and not much can go wrong (assuming somebody didn't take stuff apart and get it back together wrong!)

Extraordinary measures: assist the battery with another battery and jumpers, or with a 2/10/50 battery charger, to make it spin faster. And/or warm the intake side of the head with a hair dryer then direct the hair dryer into the air filter intake while you crank.

Or just tow the darn thing in 8th gear until it fires.


Tell us what you find!

So, I got her started. I am SO HAPPY she's running again! This has been a long slog, and I feel so relieved now. She is, however, not starting without a jump so I think I need a new battery. I will take it in today to have it tested. If that's not it, then the alternator may have given up the ghost. That's ok, cause I can jump start her in the interim and at least use her.

Next, I'm not sure how, without a thermostat, to accurately fill the cooling system. I filled the radiator full, put the cap on, then filled the reservoir, too. I am not sure if maybe I should run the tractor up to operating temp with the cap OFF, then fill further? I don't totally understand how this thermosiphon system works, and how to prevent air bubbles and verify the coolant is circulating properly. The upper radiator hose is hot, but the lower seems cool. I shut the tractor down.

 

[winston1]

Have you read this article? Yanmar Tractor Overheating It is normal for the bottom radiator hose to be cooler. That is part of what makes the thermosiphon system work. I would fill the overflow bottle about half way, leaving room for the radiator to expand into it a little.

 

[California]

not sure if maybe I should run the tractor up to operating temp with the cap OFF, then fill further? I don't totally understand how this thermosiphon system works, and how to prevent air bubbles and verify the coolant is circulating properly. The upper radiator hose is hot, but the lower seems cool. I shut the tractor down.

If you're thinking about the 'burping' some modern cars need to get all the air out - don't worry about it. There's no thermostat, and the block isn't the highest point in the cooling system, which are the reasons for concern on a modern car. Air will find its way to your overflow bottle then out to the atmosphere.

And the bottle is there so that when the system cools, coolant instead of air is sucked back in. An overflow bottle half full when cold, to allow room for expansion, is the default. Then near-full with a hot engine, and back to half full as the system cools and pulls fluid back from the bottle.

Assuming the outer fins are clean, you're finished with the coolant project. In the future keep an eye out for boilover - but I doubt it ever will. They are rated to run at full hp output indefinitely without overheating - for example powering a ditch pump - and I can't imagine you could ever run it that hard.

Project completed! Just enjoy it now.

 

[pretendfarmer]

Thanks, California and Winston. I think I'm actually bonding with this little tractor at this point. The dead battery thing has me kind of perplexed. The battery isn't that old, and she always cranked just fine. It sat out for however many weeks, but it wasn't cold. I ran the tractor for like 45 minutes, and shut it off then turned to key back on and not even a dim light. Don't see how it could have been damaged. I guess I'll take it in to have it tested.

 

[California]

If no voltage at all after running a few minutes, that sounds more like a wire connection - 12v or ground wire - shook loose. There's nothing on the engine that will discharge the battery while running.

I would start by seeing if you have 12.4v or better directly across the battery's terminals. If you do, see if there is 12v at the starter's large terminal. Then see if the headlights work (with ignition switch on). Etc ... etc. these are pretty simple to troubleshoot continuity from one point to the next.

You can get your voltmeter or test lamp to most anything under the instrument panel pretty easily. Photo.