Intermittent stalling

[turbotime]

Hey guys I do snow blowing with the 3520 and have been getting this problem lately.
All is good, until the thing just dies, then I crank for about 10 full seconds and it starts right back up.

That day it did about 7 times, each 20-40 minutes apart. Any suggestions?

Also, I had our 2nd 3520 out at night, and I noticed my headlights+worklights dimmed all of a sudden, so i look down an the Tach and it's at "0". Seconds later everything is normal.

These machines are worrying me a lot lately. Warranty just ran out too

Don't get me wrong they're awesome, but I don't want deere to have to split the machine again for a little sensor, especially since warranty is done...

 

[kennyd]

I would suspect a bad or intermittent seat switch on the first unit. When the PTO is engaged, the engine will die instantly when the seat detects the operator has left the seat.

The second unit may be a loose connection somewhere? Battery cables possibly?

 

[dirtworksequip]

What were the climate temps like the day it was quiting? Do you use an anti gel fuel treatment? 10 second cranking time seems long on a warmed up tractor. Could be a fuel problem?

If Kennyd's diagnosis is correct about the seat switch, then try the following. Locate the seat switch and put a jumper wire across the seat switch. Now no matter what the switch will not shut the tractor down. If the tractor acts up again and shuts down, you will have to look else where. If the problem goes away with the jumper wire in place. Replace the seat saftey switch.

Problem No. 2. I'd clean the battery terminals,check electrolyte levels and check the alternator voltage and battery output. Low voltage would probably be why your tach dropped to zero. Computors need full voltage to work properly. I wouldn't be too concerned about this problem unless it is presistant. It may have just been a one time event.

Also since you have 2 tractors you could switch the seat switches and see if that changes the problem to the other machine. Switching batteries between tractors would also tell you if one battery is going bad if the dim lights/tach problem switches tractors, but switching batteries in sort of a pain.

Sinerely, Dirt

 

[nmu98]

I am thinking about the same as Dirt. I think the engine is losing its prime. Have you changed filters lately? Might the filter housing not be tight? Is the cap on your fuel tank tight? is the vent on the fuel cap working? When it stalls, is there fuel in the fuel bowl?

 

[turbotime]

Thanks for all the help!
Went out for another run today, it still did it (Although a lot less than usual). No errors show on the display when she quits.

I left it at idle outside today when I came home, and when I went back out it had stalled, under no load...

Wouldn't there be a code showing if it was the seat sensor? Anyways, I'll be checking all of the above, thanks again guys.

 

[nmu98]

Thanks for all the help!
Went out for another run today, it still did it (Although a lot less than usual). No errors show on the display when she quits.

I left it at idle outside today when I came home, and when I went back out it had stalled, under no load...

Wouldn't there be a code showing if it was the seat sensor? Anyways, I'll be checking all of the above, thanks again guys.

If it stalled without the PTO engaged, then its not your seat sensor.

 

[dirtworksequip]

Check all your fuses to make sure they are tight. I had a fuse holder that let the fuse make contact about 92 % of the time. The other 8% of the time when the fuse lost contact the engine acted as though it was getting fuel and would quit running. Drove me nuts for a week before I finally trace down the problem.
If it quit while just sitting there. I'd say also that it probably isn't the seat switch.
When you were working it and it quite, how did it act? Lose power and then quit or act like someone just pulled the plug?
Sincerely, Dirt

 

[blueriver]

Thanks for all the help!
Went out for another run today, it still did it (Although a lot less than usual). No errors show on the display when she quits.

I left it at idle outside today when I came home, and when I went back out it had stalled, under no load...

Wouldn't there be a code showing if it was the seat sensor? Anyways, I'll be checking all of the above, thanks again guys.

I am south of you .... just a little. I am by no means a specialist, I am thinking just maybe perhaps ... the intake is sucking snow and moisture ??? Just a southern thought ...

 

[turbotime]

Hey Dirt. It's as if you turned the key off. The odd time on re-startup, it will choke a little, and quit, and then startup fine after that. Still haven't checked anything, we're getting freezing rain and I may be heading out soon for that.

Hopefully I'll be able to find the problem

 

[dirtworksequip]

Check all the fuses. Maybe moisture is causing bad contact on one of the fuses and shutting off the fuel.

Sincerely, Dirt

 

[turbotime]

Talked to dealer, they said they had just finished "fixing" a machine that had some of the same symptoms I'm getting. They said to check the fuel line coming from the fuel tank, that is right below the brake pedals. It may seem fine when it's not working, or off, but under load the lines apparently tightens and may cause a crimp or bend, which results in engine starving itself.

I checked it, seemed OK...gave it a bit more slack and will see what it does. Personally I don't think it will change anything, plus I checked all fuses, and they were all good.

We have 1 foot of snow coming, so hopefully (fingers crossed...) she runs good, but I wouldn't be surprised if it stalls. I'm hoping there will be enough of a snow break next week to take it to the shop and have them look it through.

 

[turbotime]

IMPORTANT UPDATE:

tractor is back in shop as we speak.

Items checked and still no dice:

Engine belt tightened (snow can cause slippage if already loose, then give alternator no power, and then tell the computer there is no engine on, therefor all shuts off)

Fuel pump seems ok, new one was tested and has same results.

Next is fuel filter. However when it was checked there was water accumulated, but was removed...

All these were checked, we were loading the machine all was good, and it stalled right on the trailer, so back into the shop it went.

Now fuel, to me seems to be the issue. We have a 1400 liter tank of diesel, and then a 400 liter tank of colored for the 3520s at home. It went empty this winter, so maybe upon fill-up there was condensation. But, what troubles me is wouldn't our other 3520 be doing the same if it's feeding off the same diesel

Anyways, hope to get some good news later on today. It's really no use to me for work if it can't run properly...

Just hoping the gremlin is found, wherever it may be!

 

[dirtworksequip]

If the fuel is suspect now. I think I would drain fuel from the tractor tank and refill from another source with fresh fuel. Treat this fuel with a diesel anti gel and also add 10 to 15% Kerosene, just to eliminate the slight chance of it being a fuel problem. That should tell you if it is the fuel. If the problem happens again your going to have to look elsewhere. If its not the fuel it almost sounds like an electrical problem somewhere. Good luck and keep us posted.

Sincerely, Dirt

 

[turbotime]

Problem solved!

So, problem has finally been located. We are some upset with our diesel delivery company.
The dealer found 1 inch of really dirty sludge at the bottom of the tank, which of course would clog the fuel line. The screen on the lines would get so plugged that fuel would not run to the engine anymore.

Since that's out of the way, no more stalling

Thanks to everyone for your help, specially Dirt.

Looking forward to working with a smooth running machine again.

Merry Christmas + Happy Holidays!

 

[dirtworksequip]

I wouldn't be so quick to blame the fuel supplier. The problem is probably in your tanks. You need to take a couple of steps to prevent further problems. Check the pick up tubes on your tank pumps and make sure they are a couple of inches off the bottom of the tank so they are not sucking up water and crud off the bottom of the tank. Second, install some fuel filters inline on your tank so the fuel you are dispensing is filtered. GOLDENROD is a good name brand filter. I use one standard filter and one water block filter in series.So my fuel gets doubled filtered at the tank and then again in the machine. NO, fuel problems in over 13 years out of the same tank. You can also get some water indicator grease to ''stick'' your tanks to detemine how much water you might have in your tanks. What I have is Yellow grease which turns Red when it comes in contact with water. Smear the grease on a piece of wood from the bottom about 6 inches up. Then stick into your tank clear to the bottom. If it indicates water, I'd try and pump the water with another pump off the bottom until it changes to good fuel.

Clean fuel and clean air are the two main things that will keep your machines running without problems.

Sincerely, Dirt