Intermotor/Lombardini 12HP gasoline motor flame out the exhaust?

[leonz]

Are you sure you just don't need a new coil?? The coils and flywheel magnets are both supposed to be T.D.C.

if the coils are anything like the B+S coils the top flap of the box is the universal gauge to set the coils distance from the flywheel.


If that "supposed rock" did break the shear pin its entirely possible that the key is sheared or partially sheared and runs when the magnets meet to start then to have it die a few seconds later.

You should be able to find a supplier of small engine tools close to you or in Italy as the flywheel spanners for small engines are pretty much universal.

 

[freedomlives]

No, it isn't like B&S (granted, that I've never dealt with the ignition on those, only at most cleaning the carburettors). For setting the distance from the coil to the flywheel, the repair manual (in Italian) says to use a piece of card stock 0.5-0.6mm thick.

I'll just try to come up with some way of holding the flywheel-- maybe ratchet cargo straps could give a good enough grip. Till I figure out how you call "flywheel wrench" in Slovak... The strap wrenches I've found on the market here seem aimed at oil cans. Only Fabory (a Grainger company) has a big strap wrench, but 70€ for a tool that I might possibly just use once is a bit high...

Well, once I get the motor going right, then there is the question why it doesn't go in to the low forward speeds. With the speed reducer on, which also reverses wheel direction, I can use hi and lo reverse speeds as forward and get the rotary plowing done and potatos planted anyway.

 

[milkman]

To hold the flywheel try using a length of small diameter rope inserted through the spark plug hole, I know that works well on a two stroke engine. Just make sure the piston is coming up on compression stroke to prevent bending an open valve if overhead valve engine.

 

[PILOON]

To hold the flywheel try using a length of small diameter rope inserted through the spark plug hole, I know that works well on a two stroke engine. Just make sure the piston is coming up on compression stroke to prevent bending an open valve if overhead valve engine.

My trick for retaining round objects is to use an old V belt and pair of vicegrips , that way there is no slippage.

 

[freedomlives]

The belt and visegrips worked! Especially when I started turning the nut clockwise instead of counter-clockwise... :ashamed:
Now pulling the flywheel is another thing. It has two holes for 10mm screws to lock in the special tool I don't have. I put some hex-head screws in them, and tried using an ordinary pulley-puller with the legs gripping under the screw heads, but not much luck. Seems I need to fashion a puller like what they have.

 

[freedomlives]

Or, even better, is just order a puller... 12€...

I don't have thick enough pieces of metal to rig something up-- tried with some square tubing, and it just bent! Now more waiting...

 

[buickanddeere]

It's fine, leave it alone and run it as is. Incandescent exhaust gasses are not a crisis.

 

[freedomlives]

I'm pretty convinced its not fine, since after I adjusted valve lash to manufacturer settings (e.g. so that there is even lash-- there was no space between the rocker arms and valves), then the engine wouldn't run. And now, as I took off the valve cover to double check the valve lash, I notice rotating the engine that the intake valve gets a bit opened for a moment during the compression or power stroke. I'm pretty sure its not supposed to be doing that!

Though I also don't understand how that could be happening. I guess a cam lobe could get deformed and stick out a bit?

 

[freedomlives]

The flywheel finally came off. And indeed there was no shearing of the key (which is a 4mm thick by 5mm tall woodruff key in case anyone wonders before they take their flywheel off. Or maybe 6.5mm tall is the correct size. The dimensions on the key are actually odd).
So still I'm vexed about that valve, as seen above. I should have tested compression before pulling the flywheel, but like is seen in the video, it certainly must be low as the valve opens a bit during the intake cycle.

 

[freedomlives]

So, I don't know that I can call it fixed, because of that valve opening, but when I set the rocker arm clearances correctly and then figured out that the fuel valve for some reason closes when it is turned 90° and is only open at around 70°, then it started and it runs. And that's good enough for now, so I can get the garden beds done.
Spare parts don't seem to be readily available for this engine, so I'm just keeping my eye out for when someone here will sell a compatible Lombardini diesel engine, as spare parts for those are available, and the price of fuel in the EU (thanks to tax policy) is such that a diesel engine is worthwhile a lot sooner.