Internal cylinder shim?

[City Farmer]

Hi all, this is a first for me so I'm back with more questions. I've never taken apart a hydraulic cylinder before. I need to add a 5/8" shim so the cylinder bottoms/stops before it hits the spindle stop. The piston OD measures 2.490", do I make the shim the same size or a little smaller, if so how much? Should there be a slip fit on the rod or a press fit (.0005") to keep it from moving around? Last question, there wasn't any lock tight on the piston nut, theres a nylon nut. Do I put loc-tite on it when I reinstall? It was was good thing I took it apart, it was dirty in there.
As always, thanks in advance. Everyone's help is always appreciated.
Andy.

 

[Mace Canute]

Make it one or two sixteens of an inch smaller on the outside and a nice sliding fit or a tad more clearance on the shaft. Try to make the hole in the spacer quite smooth and chamfer the edges also. A little medium strength thread locker won't hurt a bit. The last thing you want is for the nut to work it's way loose. I hope you aren't gripping the shaft in the vise on any portion of it that sweeps past any seals; it's bad practice to do so and you might want to consider using soft jaws or some sort of padding in the future.

 

[Xfaxman]

Will an external Stroke Stopper work?

Here is one I made from thick wall tubing slit in half, to shorten the travel on my grapple cylinder.

You could make a 5/8" spacer, since yours is apart.

 

[City Farmer]

Thanks for the help Mace. I'll polish up the puck really good tonight. I have the eye of the cylinder in the vise, not the chrome rod. It didn't take much to remove the piston nut or I would've made some aluminium v-blocks to get a better bite.

I like your idea of the stroke stopper Xfax but it won't work for me because the stopper has to be on the cyl. extend side. There's to much stroke in the cyl. so the spindle hits the axle.

 

[J_J]

Could you not install a steel bushing on the cyl rod and not touching the cyl wall the length you want to limit.

For instance, if the rod is 1 in, and the bore is 2 in, and you want to remove 2 in of stroke, then a steel object with a 1 in hole, about 1.75 in round, and 2 in long.

That should give you 2 in less stroke.

 

[Xfaxman]

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I like your idea of the stroke stopper Xfax but it won't work for me because the stopper has to be on the cyl. extend side. There's to much stroke in the cyl. so the spindle hits the axle.

I would need to see a picture of the linkage, but it seems to me that with the 5/8 shorter stroke retracted, it would adjust so the spindle wouldn't hit the axle when extended?

Are you just using one cylinder?

 

[City Farmer]

I would need to see a picture of the linkage, but it seems to me that with the 5/8 shorter stroke retracted, it would adjust so the spindle wouldn't hit the axle when extended?

Are you just using one cylinder?

Yes, only one DA cyl. When I set the cylinder in place I put an 1/8" washer where the spindle meets the axle, turned full left. The cylinder was in the closed position. That set the location of the cylinder on the axle and tie rod. Then, I rotated the wheel to the full right lock position -1/8" and measured the cylinder length. That measurement was 7-3/8". My cyl. has 8" of stroke. Thats why I needed a 5/8" puck to bottom the cyl. before I hit the spindle stop.

 

[Mact00]

My honest suggestion will be to call an expert if you don't have a clear idea about how to proceed. There are many hydraulic motor repair services and you can avail the service of one of them.

 

[skyhook]

Just curious, can you turn your front rims, inside out,,giving you more clearance.

 

[City Farmer]

Just curious, can you turn your front rims, inside out,,giving you more clearance.

I had to turn around the spindles and move the tie rod to the front to make it all go together. Its just a bad angle for the picture. There's a 3/8-1/2" of clearance between the cyl. bracket and the tire at full lock. I'll have it all back together tonight. The new pins and cyl. spacer are made up.

 

[City Farmer]

My honest suggestion will be to call an expert if you don't have a clear idea about how to proceed. There are many hydraulic motor repair services and you can avail the service of one of them.

Thanks for the link but this is not a big job. Taking parts to the shop is not and never will be for me, I'm DIY all the way. After looking at the cyl. rod, I could just move the piston shoulder back 5/8 and re-thread but a spacer is an easier fix.

 

[Xfaxman]

I had to turn around the spindles and move the tie rod to the front to make it all go together. Its just a bad angle for the picture. There's a 3/8-1/2" of clearance between the cyl. bracket and the tire at full lock. I'll have it all back together tonight. The new pins and cyl. spacer are made up.

This puzzles me. How did you keep the steering angles correct? Did you bend the steering arms?


Ackermann steering geometry - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Tie Rod in front of axle.

 

[City Farmer]

All I did was move the tie rod brackets around, right to left and left to right. Everything else stayed the same. I'll get some pictures of everything when I'm finished, it should be tonight.

 

[jenkinsph]

I agree with JJ in that you want to fasten the puck in place before the piston so that it doesn't scratch the rod.

 

[City Farmer]

I finished it up this weekend, It works perfect! I have to get the loader back on and see how she works with a full scoop of dirt.