Intro and new tractor search questions

[BobG_in_VA]

Yes, I have used the Compare Models page a lot. Right now I'm down to the 6000 4WD/FEL. The price I'm looking at is $21,900. Then adding a loader mounted dual bale spike, a 3pt bale spike, a 70 series rear mounted straight blade, a 2102 post hole auger with downward pressure cylinder. Those are all Bush Hog brand and add up to $2410, for a grand total of $24,310. Does that sound like I'm getting a decent deal?

Is it wise to get the tires filled? If so, front and back or just back? What is normally used to fill them? The dealer says they use antifreeze.
Thanks for all the helpful comments everyone has contributed.

Get the rears filled. FEL will account for any lack of weight in the front. Antifreeze is good. I paid $72 a rear to have mine filled prior to delivery. The price quoted appears well in the ballpark, especially the price for the tractor/FEL. One thing though, you might want to look at a 7ft HD boxblade rather than the "straight blade". Personnally, so much more you can do with the box. regards, BobG in VA

 

[robd123]

Thanks. Filling the rears sounds good.

I've been going back and forth on straight verses box blade. I have a driveway that is a little over 1/2 mile. It has a hill in the middle so I get washing and when ice and snow come, I need to get it cleared. I was thinking the ability to tilt and angle the straight blade would be very helpful for doing all that. Can you do things like that with a box blade, especially angling things? When you say you can do so much more with a box, what things do you mean?

Rob

 

[weldingisfun]

I agree with BobG, a box blade is essential. To answer your question, no you cannot angle a box blade. Your need to maintain a 1/2 mile road also makes the angle blade necessary. You may want to put out the additional $250 for the angle blade.
When I bought my 4500 4WD, the dealer threw in rear wheel weights and filled both rear tires with antifreez for an additional $100.

 

[robd123]

OK, help me out here. I've never used either a straight blade or a box blade. I was picturing being able to use the straight blade to move the gravel around and shape the driveway in order to keep ruts from washing down the hill and using it to clear snow during the winter. I was thinking the box blade would make things real smooth but not much else. Again, I've never used either one.

Those of you with experience, BobG, weldingisfun, and others, what do you use the two blades for? Do I need both or can I do well with one? What all can you do with a box blade that makes it so valuable?

Thanks,
Rob

 

[weldingisfun]

The box blade allows you to dig, scrape, push and level dirt. It has the weight to do that. The angle blade doesn't. It is used mainly to do the light duty finish work once the box blade has finished. If you are skilled, and I am not in that category, the box blade can be used to do some nice finish work. Given the choice, I would opt for a box blade and that is what I did. I may still add an angle blade to my collection of implements

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Rob, I maintain about 1 mile of road and I use a Road Boss grader blade and a landscape rake. These seem to work quite well for me. I also have a Midwest rear blade that I use in my dry stream beds. Although my blade was about $1000 and it weighs 680lbs, it is still on the light side . The rear blade would be good for you to plow snow with and to maintain your road. That is what I used before I got my Road Boss grader blade and landscape rake. I also have a Gannon rollover box blade that works well for moving & smoothing dirt, but it is one of my lesser used implements at this time. Best of luck with your tractor & implements, don't cheap out on your implements, it will cost more $$ in the long run.