DFB
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- John Deere 4100 HST /410 FEL, R4s
Inverter for truck
- Thread starter Robert_in_NY
- Start date
- Views: 27304
k0ua
Epic Contributor
Wow you guys see more than I do!
Could it be possibly oriented the other way in the photo ,
How does my measurement reading fit into all this? :laughing:
your resistor is damaged by your measurement of north of 3 ohms. you should replace it if you intend to go on with this project. But I wouldn't pay more than about a dollar for one. It looked to be a 1/2 watt resistor. Here are some for 10 cents each.. or 85 cents for 10
CFR-50JB-52-1R5 Yageo | Resistors | DigiKey
Soundguy
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Ditto, buy a cheap, don't spend a bundle.
I've still got those old paperboard cheat cards with dials in them to figure inductor and resistor codes. Them things must be 30ys old.
I've still got those old paperboard cheat cards with dials in them to figure inductor and resistor codes. Them things must be 30ys old.
DFB
Elite Member
- Joined
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- Tractor
- John Deere 4100 HST /410 FEL, R4s
I've bought from Digi Key before they're good even with shipping cost. They have relays that match up with my Yanmar built JD
This little endeavor is getting more expensive the longer it goes on! :laughing:
My thanks to both you and Soundguy for all the knowledge here
This little endeavor is getting more expensive the longer it goes on! :laughing:
My thanks to both you and Soundguy for all the knowledge here
k0ua
Epic Contributor
Well, we ain't saying you SHOULD rebuild it. I am not even sure I would invest in the batteries with a really old drill. The resistor, well that is no big deal. But at least if you WANT to rebuild it you have more options now. Yeah I have bought a lot of stuff from digi-key and some from mouser too.
JohnMacca
Bronze Member
All electronic devices run on magic smoke. When you let the magic smoke out of them. they don't work very well any more. So always try to keep the smoke inside.
There is plenty of funny stuff around the "magic smoke" leaking out.
I can recall seeing jars of replacement smoke for Lucas wiring for sale. Had an official looking label, complete with a part number. (Lucas Electrics - AKA The Prince of Darkness:laughing
Soundguy
Old Timer
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- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
agreed, all would depend on condition of the chuck, the motor and the bearings, and would depend on if i had other drills too
I was given a brand new, in the box craftsman cordless a while back. never opened, but years old. must have been when they first came out.. someone bought one and shelved it box still factory sealed. I got it after a yardsale, helping someone clean up, free.
The nicad pack was deader than a doornail. a new pack was as much money as a cheap 18v drill and battery.
I almost opted to rebattery it, but instead had another idea. At the same time in the shop was a 25' extension cord with bad ends. I cut them ends off and stuck spades on one side and gator clips on the other as a test.
I made the internal connections to the drill handle and strain relieved the cord, then hooked up to my truck battery.
Drill worked GREAT. I tested with the same type of spade bits I use on the farm to drill fence posts for hinges. Those tend to depleat my battery powered drills faster than I'd like.
So now I have a 'truck drill' that pretty much never has a dead battery.
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
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- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
agreed, all would depend on condition of the chuck, the motor and the bearings, and would depend on if i had other drills too
I was given a brand new, in the box craftsman cordless a while back. never opened, but years old. must have been when they first came out.. someone bought one and shelved it box still factory sealed. I got it after a yardsale, helping someone clean up, free.
The nicad pack was deader than a doornail. a new pack was as much money as a cheap 18v drill and battery.
I almost opted to rebattery it, but instead had another idea. At the same time in the shop was a 25' extension cord with bad ends. I cut them ends off and stuck spades on one side and gator clips on the other as a test.
I made the internal connections to the drill handle and strain relieved the cord, then hooked up to my truck battery.
Drill worked GREAT. I tested with the same type of spade bits I use on the farm to drill fence posts for hinges. Those tend to depleat my battery powered drills faster than I'd like.
So now I have a 'truck drill' that pretty much never has a dead battery.
DFB
Elite Member
- Joined
- Dec 7, 2000
- Messages
- 2,897
- Location
- Southern VT, Southern ME
- Tractor
- John Deere 4100 HST /410 FEL, R4s
You know on one hand it is a "classic" drill. Overall its well built tool all steel gears and nothing nylon.
But hey it was like $60 those 25 years or more ago. I can still remember when I bought it I was very happy with it then it was my very first Makita tool.
Not very powerful but lightweight and real comfortable in the hand. Nice little woodworking tool and handy around the house. Just a drill though and no clutch for screwdriving. Top RPM is only 600 with a 3/8" keyed steel chuck. This would be the 3rd time around for batteries. Be a fun little project of no dire necessity to me to get done..so its back together and back on the shelf right now. :laughing:
But hey it was like $60 those 25 years or more ago. I can still remember when I bought it I was very happy with it then it was my very first Makita tool.
Not very powerful but lightweight and real comfortable in the hand. Nice little woodworking tool and handy around the house. Just a drill though and no clutch for screwdriving. Top RPM is only 600 with a 3/8" keyed steel chuck. This would be the 3rd time around for batteries. Be a fun little project of no dire necessity to me to get done..so its back together and back on the shelf right now. :laughing:
ultrarunner
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agreed, all would depend on condition of the chuck, the motor and the bearings, and would depend on if i had other drills too
I was given a brand new, in the box craftsman cordless a while back. never opened, but years old. must have been when they first came out.. someone bought one and shelved it box still factory sealed. I got it after a yardsale, helping someone clean up, free.
The nicad pack was deader than a doornail. a new pack was as much money as a cheap 18v drill and battery.
I almost opted to rebattery it, but instead had another idea. At the same time in the shop was a 25' extension cord with bad ends. I cut them ends off and stuck spades on one side and gator clips on the other as a test.
I made the internal connections to the drill handle and strain relieved the cord, then hooked up to my truck battery.
Drill worked GREAT. I tested with the same type of spade bits I use on the farm to drill fence posts for hinges. Those tend to depleat my battery powered drills faster than I'd like.
So now I have a 'truck drill' that pretty much never has a dead battery.
Great idea... never would have occurred to me.