Grading Is a GC1705 box blade combo going to work?

ohmyback · Nov 2, 2018

Hello All,

I have a GC1705 and need to do some grading on my established driveway. Just trying to decide if buying a box blade is worth it. I do have the FEL. I would like to remove the crown and fill some low spots.
Just don't know if I am going to make more work with a box blade. Other thought was to put some teeth on the bucket. Years past I always used a bobcat that I no longer have. Last option is just buy
another load of gravel. All three options at this time are about the same dollar spend. Anyone have some first hand experience with the GC tractors and grading?

GC1710 · Nov 2, 2018

I ended up getting a 48” SBX which for the dirt work I planned and plan on doing with it works well, granted if I fill that box up I have trouble pulling it. If I was going to be working a driveway I’d probably get the lesser weight version. Box weight is a balancing act, you want weight on the shanks for ripping but too much and your tractor can’t pull it full. Doing it again I’d go lighter than the sbx line and add weight if needed.

If you find yourself spinning the rear wheels you’ll need to add weight. I have a 130lb weight in the mower arms, beet juice filled tires, and an additional 130lb weight by my feet when I’m pulling the box blade. If you are stalling your tractor at full throttle you’ve found a good amount of weight!

shooterdon · Nov 2, 2018

I found a used back blade for $100 and after getting some good advice on this forum this week found it did a pretty good job of grading my drive way. The secret is to wait for some moisture and to angle the blade at 45* for the initial passes. Then use the blade turned 180* so the back of the blade is used for finial smoothing. It is not perfect but I am still learning.

I came really close to buying a box blade after reading many threads here. But it seemed that unless you have a hydraulic top link, they are a bit of pain to use. And I have no need to move material from one place to another which is one feature the box blade has.

The other option is a land grader/leveler. Just seemed too expensive for my needs as my driveway is only about 200 yards long. I am in a rural area and my driveway is actually in better shape than the road to my place. Seems silly to pay for perfection in my case.

ohmyback · Nov 2, 2018

Thank you for your responses.

DMW · Nov 2, 2018

Get a 48" boxblade with scarifiers and you will not be disappointed, A little practice is needed to reduce rippling, and being too aggressive with the scarifiers. Mine is always left on to provide a counterweight for loader work. Greatly increases the stability of the GC and adds traction to the rear tires.

Hickorypond · Nov 2, 2018

I have a Woods 54" road grader that I use with my 1720. I leave the scarifiers off normally, it pulls fine, we have about 1000 feet of gravel drive.

cdaigle430 · Nov 2, 2018

ohmyback said:
Hello All,

I have a GC1705 and need to do some grading on my established driveway. Just trying to decide if buying a box blade is worth it. I do have the FEL. I would like to remove the crown and fill some low spots.
Just don't know if I am going to make more work with a box blade. Other thought was to put some teeth on the bucket. Years past I always used a bobcat that I no longer have. Last option is just buy
another load of gravel. All three options at this time are about the same dollar spend. Anyone have some first hand experience with the GC tractors and grading?

I have a County Line 48inch BB and it is awesome, I love the reverse and forward blades. Helped me move and level 30 plus 18 yeard dump truck loads of gravel, sand and loam. I usually run out of traction before the tractor limits while using the spikes, I have turf tires.

GC1710 · Nov 2, 2018

shooterdon said:
I found a used back blade for $100 and after getting some good advice on this forum this week found it did a pretty good job of grading my drive way. The secret is to wait for some moisture and to angle the blade at 45* for the initial passes. Then use the blade turned 180* so the back of the blade is used for finial smoothing. It is not perfect but I am still learning.

I came really close to buying a box blade after reading many threads here. But it seemed that unless you have a hydraulic top link, they are a bit of pain to use. And I have no need to move material from one place to another which is one feature the box blade has.

The other option is a land grader/leveler. Just seemed too expensive for my needs as my driveway is only about 200 yards long. I am in a rural area and my driveway is actually in better shape than the road to my place. Seems silly to pay for perfection in my case.

I have since added a hydraulic top link and it makes pulling the box so fun!

I find it intriguing how you can also adjust the side link and put a perfect pitch on a trail/drive to flow water....the whole grader box application is addicting....at least for me.

dneal · Nov 3, 2018

GC1710 said:
I have since added a hydraulic top link and it makes pulling the box so fun!

I find it intriguing how you can also adjust the side link and put a perfect pitch on a trail/drive to flow water....the whole grader box application is addicting....at least for me.

I’ve been thinking about a hydraulic top link for this reason. Can you elaborate on your install? Where did you get the parts, what valve did you use, etc...