Is it better to use gear oil or trans fluid in front axle of FWA Kubotas?

[repete]

The front axle is mounted on a pivot. So you dont loose any stability keeping them narrow. At least not under normal circumstances. IF the tractor is tipped far enough to to hit the front axles mechanical stops.....only then does wider gain stability. But under normal circumstances, by the time the front axle has hit a stop....its too late

The original reason I turned them to the outside was not so much for stability as it was for loading on the trailer with ramps. The rears were in a wider stance than the fronts so I could only climb the narrow ramps in the front wide position. Paid Kubota for that lesson. Until I bought a tilt trailer I loaded in wide then narrowed again after transport. Nice to be able to lift the axle with the bucket. You are correct LD1 that it would most likely come into play stability wise when you are at the end of travel (which reminds me that I did replace the pivot bushing in the front dif years ago and drilled and tapped for a grease nipple at that bushing as it did not come with one).

Another thing I did was drill and tap my front axle fill plug to accept a 1/8" pipe thread nipple and then I ran a hose to up under the engine cowling thus allowing a vent capability to the front axle as the front axle would occasionally go under water and in the process of cooling I wanted it to sip on clean air as opposed to water through the front seals. I also ran the hose into a automotive fuel filter to remove any dust from the vent air.

My "stops" for the front axle are "paint free".

 

[LD1]

The original reason I turned them to the outside was not so much for stability as it was for loading on the trailer with ramps. The rears were in a wider stance than the fronts so I could only climb the narrow ramps in the front wide position. Paid Kubota for that lesson. Until I bought a tilt trailer I loaded in wide then narrowed again after transport. Nice to be able to lift the axle with the bucket. You are correct LD1 that it would most likely come into play stability wise when you are at the end of travel (which reminds me that I did replace the pivot bushing in the front dif years ago and drilled and tapped for a grease nipple at that bushing as it did not come with one).

Another thing I did was drill and tap my front axle fill plug to accept a 1/8" pipe thread nipple and then I ran a hose to up under the engine cowling thus allowing a vent capability to the front axle as the front axle would occasionally go under water and in the process of cooling I wanted it to sip on clean air as opposed to water through the front seals. I also ran the hose into a automotive fuel filter to remove any dust from the vent air.

My "stops" for the front axle are "paint free".

My stops are paint free as well, but never from almost tipping. Rather one tire dropping in a hole, or driving it up over a dirt mount, rock, log, whatever. Where the rear stays flat, and there is little risk of tip-over.

On a side hill, something like 20-30 degrees....your rear axle is the same as the front.....thus not anywhere close to the stops. And in that case.....narrow or wide makes no difference. By the time the stops hit.....too late

 

[NEPA guy]

I used lucas heavy duty 80w90. It cuts down on gear whine. Although in my case the hst will drown out any advantages in that scenario. However, gear oil is meant to take the abuse. Tried and true. I'll stick with it if it says the choice is mine.