Is Mid-Winter Engine Start Advised?

[new jersey mike]

I am biting at the bit to take the tractor out and start working not just warm it up.

An additional problem with moving it is my neighbor is letting me keep it in his barn, he actually moved a pop-up camper and boat on a trailer out for me. He does not have livestock but he has put his summer mowers and other items behind it and I don't want to be a pain in the butt and ask him if I can move his stuff.

The plan for now is to test the battery, then connect the charger and engine block heater for 24 hrs. Give the tractor a good visual check for mouse infestation. Check all fluids and visual on the tires tires, if the stems are above 10 and 2 check pressure, I have rim guard and don't want to let any out. Then come back on sunday and start it up..

I will crank a couple of times before engaging the glow plugs to move the warmed oil. If it fires up without preheat so be it, I don't want to mess around with the fuel pump. I know the dealer said the wire to the fuel pump could easily be removed as a theft deterrent and as CBP mentioned in his post I could remove the wire so I could do that to inhibit starting and to just move oil but if I do that would I have to bleed it or no since air did not get in?

I will open both barn doors and let it run at idle speed for 5 - 10 minutes then @ 1000 - 1200 rpm until it comes up to operating temp.

 

[CBP Engineer]

Don't blame you for wanting to hop on your tractor and play. As far as getting the neighbor's stuff moved out of the way, calling him ahead of time and showing up with a fresh baked homemade pie or other peace offering goes a long way towards helping relations. :licking:

The weather in the Northeast looks mild for this weekend, so getting the tractor started shouldn't be a problem. Plugging in the block heater for two or three hours should be more than enough to warm things up, but keeping it on longer won't hurt. It might pop right off even without the glow plugs. Don't fret about it starting right away, you won't ruin the engine. Not sure about air getting into the lines. Your tractor is newer than mine and I haven't really studied the fuel system yet.

Not sure where your property is located in New York, but here in central PA things are thawing out pretty quickly. Most of the snow is gone and the ground is soft. If you can get the tractor moved over to your property without making ruts, then have some fun.

 

[barbqranch]

I don't know about your model tractor, but on mine if it is in gear with the clutch depressed, it will crank but not open the fuel solenoid. I think the same thing is true w/ the seat switch, but I don't know for sure since my seat switch was disconnected before I got it.

 

[new jersey mike]

I don't know about your model tractor, but on mine if it is in gear with the clutch depressed, it will crank but not open the fuel solenoid. I think the same thing is true w/ the seat switch, but I don't know for sure since my seat switch was disconnected before I got it.

Good point the seat switch, I was siting on the solution the whole time.

It will cut out if I shift my weight off the seat..

As for the weather today 55, tomorrow high of 27 wind 45 - 60 as long as a tree does not fall on us while snowshoeing in the woods I'll be happy..

 

[LD1]

I also agree with those who said to get it up to full operating temp.

It is the same with any engine and even autos. But as temps change, and if humidity is right, condensation forms inside things.

The boiling point of water is 212. The boiling point of oil is higher. Oil at full operating temperature is ABOVE 212, that way it can boil off the condensation. If you dont run it until it is FULLY warmed up, you dont achieve this and all you do is mix the moisture with the oil and spread it through the engine.

 

[Jeff Lary]

One person said check for mouse nests behind the instrament pannel.Yea do that i found one in my kubota last weekend and i run mine at least every couple of days.They were in around the wiring harness behind the tach.

 

[CowwFace]

My thoughts are: Letting a machine just sit is worse for it that running it. I don't think 3 months is all that bad... but I would plug in the block heater, and then run and try to operate it as often as possible.

Cripes, My home AC unit worked GREAT all winter long... then when summer came around it was broken!!!

Tractor on

 

[Jeff Lary]

Amen there is alot of truth in the saying "use it or loose it"

 

[new jersey mike]

All went well. After freeing up the freezing the barn door I was able to get in a look at the tractor. I did visual on the engine area for mice nests, I did not look inside the panel area. I checked the fluids and then the battery with a hydrometer and it was very low only one ball floating. I connected the battery charger and block heater for 24 hours.

Returned the next morning, I tried the no weight on the seat to see if it would just crank and move oil but it would not crank at all due to the seat safety. Sat down hit the key and it fired instantly. I let it run about 5 min at idle speed then raised the rpm's to about 1200 to bring it up to temp. I raisedand lowered the loader and flexed the bucket to move the fluids. Then lowered the rpms and engaged the pto and raised and lowered the draft controls again to move the fluids.

I did not take it out of the barn, there was a 2 -3 ft large drift in the way, the temperature was in the low teens and the wind was blowing 40 -50 mph.

So we went snowshoeing "in the woods" instead which is a story all in it's self.

Thanks for all the comments.

 

[Reg]

I purchased a new T1530 back in Sep. for 2nd property in NY and I put it away in November and has been sitting since. I had put 35 hours on it so I changed the oil. It has a block heater but not plugged in to barn electric. It is stored in the barn out of the weather. I want to put a battery charger on it from saturday to sunday to bring the battery back to full charge.

My question is, would you plug the block heater in on saturday and start it on sunday with the outside temp forecast of 10 - 20 degrees and just to let it run for a while?

If there a benefit or is that just unnecessary wear and tear since the oil has dripped down?

If I start it I do not plan to move it out of the barn but I thought if it is running I should move the loader and bucket along with the PTO controls, any thoughts.

Thank you
Mike

I would just charge the battery.
I see no sense in starting it unless you intend to do some useful work with it.
Any issues about oil draining down, condensation forming, rust film on cylinder walls, etc are only doubled if you start it up and then leave it for another n weeks - even if you get all the oils up to full operating temperature.
Just a waste of fuel and time for essentially no return (an imaginary return at best).