PineRidge
Super Member
We have been using an Optima for a year and a half without a minutes worth of problems. I might suggest taking yours back and let them test the Optima battery, that way if there is a problem they can take care of it.
Is my Optima battery bad????
- Thread starter computerboy
- Start date
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normde2001
Elite Member
- Joined
- Mar 10, 2002
- Messages
- 4,163
Go to Harbor Freight tools and get yourself a $3 volt/ohm meter and check the battery. If at least 12.6 volts, it's good. If less, put on charger, ($30 from Advance Autoparts), until fully charged. If it won't take/hold a charge, return it.
Highbeam
Super Member
Another trick I've used when trying to figure out the trouble is to leave those lights turned on while you attempt to start the tractor. If the lights dim when you try to start it then the battery is not providing enough juice. If the lights stay the same then the problem is not the battery.
I have had an optima in my pickup for several years and really appreciate the lack of corrosion and acid. I would use one in my tractor in a heartbeat.
My current bulldozer battery is pretty juicy. My voltmeter reads 15 volts from a new GM 1-wire alternator. I wouldn't say a juicy battery in a non-road vehicle is a big problem. Lots of sloshing going on there. I use a full plastic battery box from walmart to contain the acid and prevent the battery from bouncing into the hood.
I have had an optima in my pickup for several years and really appreciate the lack of corrosion and acid. I would use one in my tractor in a heartbeat.
My current bulldozer battery is pretty juicy. My voltmeter reads 15 volts from a new GM 1-wire alternator. I wouldn't say a juicy battery in a non-road vehicle is a big problem. Lots of sloshing going on there. I use a full plastic battery box from walmart to contain the acid and prevent the battery from bouncing into the hood.
OP
computerboy
Bronze Member
I put the battery on my charger this morning and after a few minutes the charger went into desulfation mode. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif Here is what my manual says about it.
DESULFATION MODE: If a battery is left discharged for an extended period, it could become sulfated and not accept a normal charge. If the charger detects a sulfated batery, the charger will switch to a special mode of operation designed for such batteries. Activation of the special desulfation mode is indicated my blinking the CHARGING LED. If successful, normal charging will resume after the battery is desulfated. The CHARGING LED will then stop blikning and light continuously. Desulfation could take up to 10 hours. If desulfation fails, charging will be aborted and the CHECK (red) LED will blink.
After reading this I decided to call the place I purchased the battery from and asked if they could test it. They said they could so I took it back. They tested the battery and it came up bad. I exchanged the battery for a new one (same model). I had them test the new battery and it tested out fine. I just got back, hooked it up to my tractor and it started right up. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Thank you to everyone who replied with suggestions. I am new to the battery stuff so I learned a few thing from the replys.
Just for my information, I have a Schumacher Speed Charge Smart Battery Charger Model 1200A For 12-Volt Batteries. The charger has 3 options for types of batteries - Regular, Deep Cycle and AGM, Gell Cell. Is it OK to use the regular setting for the Optima battery or should I use the Gell Cell option? Here is what the manual says:
REGULAR: This is the type of battery usually used in cars, trucks, and motorcycles. These batteries have vent caps and are often marked "low maintenance" or "maintenance-free".
DEEP CYCLE: Deep cycle batteries are usually marked as "deep cycle" or "marine". Deep cycle batteries are usually larger than the other types.
AGM, GEL CEL: AGM and gel cell batteries have sealed cases without vent caps. Such batteries are often smaller than the other types.
Again - thanks,
Mike
DESULFATION MODE: If a battery is left discharged for an extended period, it could become sulfated and not accept a normal charge. If the charger detects a sulfated batery, the charger will switch to a special mode of operation designed for such batteries. Activation of the special desulfation mode is indicated my blinking the CHARGING LED. If successful, normal charging will resume after the battery is desulfated. The CHARGING LED will then stop blikning and light continuously. Desulfation could take up to 10 hours. If desulfation fails, charging will be aborted and the CHECK (red) LED will blink.
After reading this I decided to call the place I purchased the battery from and asked if they could test it. They said they could so I took it back. They tested the battery and it came up bad. I exchanged the battery for a new one (same model). I had them test the new battery and it tested out fine. I just got back, hooked it up to my tractor and it started right up. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Thank you to everyone who replied with suggestions. I am new to the battery stuff so I learned a few thing from the replys.
Just for my information, I have a Schumacher Speed Charge Smart Battery Charger Model 1200A For 12-Volt Batteries. The charger has 3 options for types of batteries - Regular, Deep Cycle and AGM, Gell Cell. Is it OK to use the regular setting for the Optima battery or should I use the Gell Cell option? Here is what the manual says:
REGULAR: This is the type of battery usually used in cars, trucks, and motorcycles. These batteries have vent caps and are often marked "low maintenance" or "maintenance-free".
DEEP CYCLE: Deep cycle batteries are usually marked as "deep cycle" or "marine". Deep cycle batteries are usually larger than the other types.
AGM, GEL CEL: AGM and gel cell batteries have sealed cases without vent caps. Such batteries are often smaller than the other types.
Again - thanks,
Mike
