Is sub compact big enough?

[PreacherM]

I will throw a new spin on things.
You already have a larger, heavier utility tractor that doesn't get used much.
You already believe that you will use a sub compact 5 times as much.
My question, given your small area, is a larger tractor SMALL enough to be handy?
I bought my MF1736 utility with only 40 hrs on it because the original owner has a 4 acre plot and said it was too big to be handy for him, so he wanted a sub compact. Yes, the bigger tractors have distinct advantages, but the small ones are often handy in tight spaces that a larger one is not. The SCUT will do nearly everything the larger utility will do, you just need to take smaller bites, so it will take longer on some jobs.

That's pretty much what I've concluded. If bigger tractors were cheaper, it might look different! For myself I think the main advantage of larger would be FEL lift height and capacity.

 

[Fxfymn413]

I don't like to make quick decisions and my cash on hand should be much better in a couple months.

Smart move. I have found that time is my biggest ally when I'm looking for something. It may take a while, but eventually a good deal on what you need will pop up if you are vigilant and keep looking daily.

I use sites like "Search Tempest" to check CL's all around the area and of course word of mouth is always helpful. I have found that a good time to check the local CL is around 8 at night since that is after most folks have posted around dinner time.

 

[jyoutz]

That's pretty much what I've concluded. If bigger tractors were cheaper, it might look different! For myself I think the main advantage of larger would be FEL lift height and capacity.

And clearance underneath. The low stance, small tires, and vulnerable HST fan on the BX makes them a little risky for working in the woods or rough ground. They are best for maintenance chores on lawns or fields with no obstructions.

 

[check]

And clearance underneath. The low stance, small tires, and vulnerable HST fan on the BX makes them a little risky for working in the woods or rough ground. They are best for maintenance chores on lawns or fields with no obstructions.

Don’t agree. My Kubota BX25 is used for all kinds of things, and is very tough. Our rental property is 25 acres, and I have been able to do what I want. Used 2” wheel spacers for stability, and a BroTec steel plate to protect the HST fan. And the 3-Point snowblower is deadly!

The tractor is a 2009, and I see no reason to upgrade, and spend all that extra money.

 

[oosik]

I have 80 acres and a mile long gravel driveway. Bought a brand new Ford 1700 4WD( ~26hp) in 1982 when we moved onto the property. It worked great for the 27 years I owned it. Driveway snow plowing, brush cleanup, moving rocks & logs - etc.

My land is open stands of Ponderosa pine and fields of bunch grass. Access to any part of the property is not a problem.

So.....In 2009 I upgraded to a brand new Kubota M6040. Larger tractor - larger project - more rapid completion of smaller projects - and I could do summer maintenance on my driveway. I found that I needed Cat 2 implements to "penetrate" the driveway surface once it dried out in the summer.

Yes - Cat 2 implements ARE a lot more expensive than Cat 1. But it's silly to own a tractor that can not handle the heavier implements needed to get a job done.

 

[rScotty]

Don’t agree. My Kubota BX25 is used for all kinds of things, and is very tough. Our rental property is 25 acres, and I have been able to do what I want. Used 2” wheel spacers for stability, and a BroTec steel plate to protect the HST fan. And the 3-Point snowblower is deadly!

The tractor is a 2009, and I see no reason to upgrade, and spend all that extra money.

How do you think it would have fared without those key modifications? I wonder how many owners make protective changes to a new tractor.

 

[oosik]

Hey - rScotty - - I made a change to my M6040 in 2009 when it was new. I added expanded metal to the OEM grill guard. BEFORE I added the grapple. Really - not much of a change. But I had read enough posts here on TBN to know that I didn't want to buy new tractor parts. Grills - radiators - batteries.

I knock on wood now. Forty plus years out here on the 80 and no tractor damage from foreign objects. Pretty hard for bunch grass to damage anything. And when I fell my gigantic pines for firewood - tractor was FAR away.

However - it's very obvious why many have made protective changes to their tractors. It can be a jungle out there........

 

[LittleBittyBigJohn]

I have a 1025R and about 11 acres. 3 of that is lawn. It is a handy little dude. It looks to be very similar to the MF that you are looking at. I have the belly mower and it works well as a lawn mower. Better than any box store tractor type mower that I have owned. I prefer my zero turn most of the time but being a diesel the 1025R does better when the grass gets high and on the wide open spaces. It is heavier than a lawn mower, you will leave ruts if the ground is soft, but not terrible ones. On soft ground mine mostly just leaves the imprints of the tire tread and just enough rut that you can feel it. The little loader is awesome, full buckets of SB2 grade7 no problem. I assume the MF would be sized appropriately. I have not been let down on the amount of capacity or power at all. It does great with the 4' box blade.

It has plenty of power for the 4' bush hog in 6' tall Johnson grass and decent in 2' tall fertilized Bermuda. I've got my eye out for a 5' bush hog. I think it would have plenty of power if the grass is not too tall or too thick not sure about weight, but I can stand on the back of the 4' while it is lifted and hop and the front stays on the ground so I'm hoping. That is with the loader on, the 4' is pretty heavy with the loader off. The 4' is so narrow that the stems on stemmy grass get pushed down and out of the cutter by the tires. So it does not leave a good cut on the first go round. It's also terribly slow at only 4' wide I would not want to do a large area. That has been my main complaint about the SCUT. It's also rough riding and feels a little tippy. But it's not terrible in those regards.

Also on the belly mower. If you opt for one you will definitely need to remove it if you are doing anything on non-lawn ground. There is very little ground clearance with it on.

 

[hornett22]

Depends on your property. If it's flat and manicured, probably fine. Mine would eat a SCUT for breakfast. You could probably mow some of my lawn and retrieve my mail. That's about it.

 

[airbiscuit]

I'd go with a compact (and did). A sub compact is basically a lawnmower with attachments. If ground clearance is a concern, I'd check what it is? Good luck

You seem to have your mind made up on a SCUT. I think you will be happy with that. I think you would be even happier with a Small Frame CUT. About the same footprint, but larger wheels, more traction and ground clearance.