Is there a 3PH drawbar hitch?

[KennK]

In order to manage/compost manure on my small horse farm (3 horses) I purchased a JD 3320 with a FEL and a smallish ground-driven manure spreader. The problem is that in order to fill the manure spreader I have to detach it from the tractor. Reattaching a full manure spreader to the drawbar is an intersting challenge (getting the hitch to line up right, plus getting the height of the spreader hitch just right). One of the real problems is that the spreader manual says not to use the tongue-jack when it is filled. Even if I do use the tongue-jack, the tractor's drawbar is low enough that I can't rotate the tongue-jack to stow it (the foot pad hits the ground).

Right now I rest the hitch on a series of pieces of wood and HOPE that once filled the spreader hitch is still the right height to line up with the drawbar. Often it isn't, which means I have to muscle the whole thing to the right height before backing the tractor up to it. Then I pull forward hoping that the hitch will slide off the pile enough to remove the bits of wood - so I don't have to drive the spreader over them, hope off the tractor, move the wood, and then head off to spread. A real pain in the back, not to mention the neck.

This has me wondering if anyone makes a 3PH version of a drawbar (or similar), where I could simply back up to the spreader hitch with the 3PH drawbar lowered, line up a hitch pin (kind of like the ball part of an automotive hitch), raise the 3PH drawbar to insert the pin into the hitch, and then insert a clip to keep the spreader attached on a bump.

There has got to be a better way ... short of buy an ATV or a second tractor to pull the spreader. My back can't keep doing this!

 

[BobG_in_VA]

I'm going to assume that you have a Cat I 3ph on your Deere. Simpley go down to the local TSC or whatever tractor place and purchase an 11 hole drawbar. I'm also assuming your manure spreader has pin hookup thru your drawbar. Simply use your 3ph to raise or lower the 11 hole drawbar till you are at the right height, back into the hitch and drop your pin thru. BobG in VA

 

[Gary_in_Indiana]

You could buy the EZ Mover right here; https://www.imcuniverse.com/store/ezmover.htm

That would give you a receiver into which you would insert a 2" stinger with what you need welded to it. For that matter you could get some bar and tube stock and make your own if you like to weld.

I got lucky and bought an old 3 point bale spear at an auction for five bucks and took the spear off (U-bolts) and cut the stabilizer points off (welded) leaving just the inverted 'T' piece to attach to my 3PH. I took a piece of 2" ID tube stock and drilled a hole through two sides to match a stock trailer hitch stinger then welded it to the intersection point of the 'T' facing the rear. I then reinforced it with gussets on three sides and tacked on a short piece of larger tube stock over the very end to act as a bit of reinforcement just like the receiver hitch on a truck.

Good luck with whatever you decide to do. I hope this helps.

 

[Opti-Mist]

Yup, like Bob says, you're looking for a linkage drawbar. Very handy. Mine gets used with a soilmover, also a heavyweight when full of dirt.

 

[Skaning]

Bobs got it right for something that's as heavy loaded as a spreader. The big issue with the 3 PT hitch drawbar approach is that the 3 pt hitch lifts very well but has no real downward force. It needs gravity to keep it down. If there is any upward force, load bouncing up and down, the bar might rise. That's why the handy hitch has a chain tied to the fixed drawbar at the top. In your case, I suspect loaded there will not be an issue. Unloaded though unless there is a fair amount of tongue load you could have a problem.

 

[Gary_in_Indiana]

Bobs got it right for something that's as heavy loaded as a spreader. The big issue with the 3 PT hitch drawbar approach is that the 3 pt hitch lifts very well but has no real downward force. It needs gravity to keep it down. If there is any upward force, load bouncing up and down, the bar might rise. That's why the handy hitch has a chain tied to the fixed drawbar at the top. In your case, I suspect loaded there will not be an issue. Unloaded though unless there is a fair amount of tongue load you could have a problem.

If you follow the link I provided in my earlier post, you'll see a solution to that problem shown in the form of a chain that goes from the top of the attachment described down to the tractor itself. With that in place the 3PH can't rise as you described.

 

[Skaning]

Gary;

I was really responding to the idea of just using the drawbar on the lower arms of the hitch. In that case, all you have going for you is tongue download. I'll admit to getting caught on that scenario several years ago.
Lesson learned.


I agree, the handy hitch and I think the Bad River take care of the lift issue with a tieback chain.

Skaning

 

[ovrszd]

I don't think you will have to worry about the drawbar bouncing up with a manure spreader hooked to it. Manure Spreaders put a lot of weight on the hitch. They are built that way so the tractor carries a substantial portion of the load. Makes it easier to pull and less chance of it sinking in soft fields when unloading.

 

[Soundguy]

Bobs got it right for something that's as heavy loaded as a spreader. The big issue with the 3 PT hitch drawbar approach is that the 3 pt hitch lifts very well but has no real downward force. It needs gravity to keep it down. If there is any upward force, load bouncing up and down, the bar might rise. That's why the handy hitch has a chain tied to the fixed drawbar at the top. In your case, I suspect loaded there will not be an issue. Unloaded though unless there is a fair amount of tongue load you could have a problem.

A 15$ set of drawbar stays will prevent the hitch from rising on it's own.. etc.

Soundguy

 

[ovrszd]

A 15$ set of drawbar stays will prevent the hitch from rising on it's own.. etc.

Soundguy

Yeah, I thought of that but then he would be back to the original problem which was the spreader settling and not being the right height after loading. He needs his 3pt to get the height right for hookup.

 

[Soundguy]

The common drawbar stays are 2 units of 2 pieces each.. adjustable with wing nuts.. I.E. you lift he lift, get her hitched.. then lock the says down..

Soundguy

 

[roxynoodle]

This is where you now have the excuse of buying a second tractor! Then you don't have to worry about the spreader being hooked too high on your compact and raising above the rear axle. My solution was a Farmall H. Now I have a tractor to hook the spreader to and another tractor. It is just the right height drawbar for the spreader too!

 

[horseman1]

Same exact solution as Roxy, but I have an M instead of an H . Sometimes I give the GT a workout too and use it to pull the spreader. That little spreader looks kinda silly behind the M though. I need a bigger spreader!

 

[PineRidge]

Instead of messin' with all that hardware why not get a receiver tube and weld it to the draw-bar like this.

 

[Soundguy]

Because the original poster was looking for an option -other- than that. They already have a setup where they tote a trailer on the drawbar.. but are having difficulty in attaching the trailer when it is loaded.. thus they wanted an attachment point ont he 3pt drawbar to make laoding easier.

Soundguy

Instead of messin' with all that hardware why not get a receiver tube and weld it to the draw-bar like this.

 

[PineRidge]

Because the original poster was looking for an option -other- than that. They already have a setup where they tote a trailer on the drawbar.. but are having difficulty in attaching the trailer when it is loaded.. thus they wanted an attachment point ont he 3pt drawbar to make laoding easier.

Soundguy

It would be a simple matter to attach a sidewind or topwind jack to the trailer. The pad can be jacked up once the trailer is coupled to the draw-bar and there is no need to swivel anything. And if mounted correctly there is no ground clearance issue.

sidewind jack

 

[Soundguy]

The original poster also covered that, saying that a jack was not recomended for the trailer.. etc. it's all in the 1st post.. etc.

Soundguy

 

[PineRidge]

The original poster also covered that, saying that a jack was not recomended for the trailer.. etc. it's all in the 1st post.. etc.

Soundguy

He said: Right now I rest the hitch on a series of pieces of wood and HOPE that once filled the spreader hitch is still the right height to line up with the drawbar.

Soundguy what's the difference between blocks of wood and a jack? It's obvious that the tongue has to be lifted with one means or another to connect it to the tractor, so why not do it the easy way if given a choice?

INSTRUCTIONS: Use the jack to lift the trailer tongue instead of a stack of lumber, back up to the trailer, retract the jack, complicated?

 

[Soundguy]

Actually, in the paragraph above the one you quoted, on the 4th line, he said this:

One of the real problems is that the spreader manual says not to use the tongue-jack when it is filled.

He said: Right now I rest the hitch on a series of
pieces of wood and HOPE that once filled the spreader hitch is still the right height to line up with the drawbar.

Soundguy what's the difference between blocks of wood and a jack? It's obvious that the tongue has to be lifted with one means or another to connect it to the tractor, so why not do it the easy way if given a choice?

INSTRUCTIONS: Use the jack to lift the trailer tongue instead of a stack of lumber, back up to the trailer, retract the jack, complicated?

Seems like the easy way isn't to monkey with a tounge jack, if you can just put two fingers on your 3pt touch control and move it, and then magically the 3pt hitch comes up, lifting the spreader. An ingenious person may even rig up a way to knock the trailer latch down without ever getting out of the tractor seat.. perhaps a short piece of wood.. like a firing strip or lath.

Soundguy

 

[wushaw]

His spreaders tounge jack is probably a light duty jack is the reason for not using it with loaded spreader.