That's prob because you have a BX. It really all depends on the trailer though. Either way the tongue height matters very little when your going 5mph through the field.Most drawbars are too low for good trailer handling. I made a clamp on receiver hitch for my FEL. I find pushing trailers to be better for maneuvering in tight spots. Got the idea watching lot boys at an RV dealer moving trailers that way with a forklift. On the FEL you are looking straight ahead to where you are going, and tight turns are easier. I have never been good at backing trailers with a PU anyway. Never enough practice. Smokey's FEL system is the wrong approach, you need to lock onto a ball hitch.
Ron
Hitching a trailer to a 3pt is potentially risky for similar reasons. The draw bar is located below the axle. If the trailer gets stuck it increases traction & stability. If the load is above the rear axle the rear tires can keep moving & literally drive out from under the tractor while the trailer hitch keeps the top if the tractor in one spot. Basicalky you can roll over backwards if your trailer hitches up over the axle. As there is no down force on as 3pt, a tongue can bounce the 3pt up causing bad high lateral forces too. Generally not an issue either way at walking speeds on flat ground. But can be risky on rough ground or hills.That's prob because you have a BX. It really all depends on the trailer though. Either way the tongue height matters very little when your going 5mph through the field.
Hitching a trailer to a 3pt is potentially risky for similar reasons. The draw bar is located below the axle. If the trailer gets stuck it increases traction & stability. If the load is above the rear axle the rear tires can keep moving & literally drive out from under the tractor while the trailer hitch keeps the top if the tractor in one spot. Basicalky you can roll over backwards if your trailer hitches up over the axle. As there is no down force on as 3pt, a tongue can bounce the 3pt up causing bad high lateral forces too. Generally not an issue either way at walking speeds on flat ground. But can be risky on rough ground or hills.
Personally I use a ball on the end of my pallet forks. But I'm dealing with 500lbs of tongue weight on a tractor that will lift double to quadruple that. I'm also going only a hundred yards on smoothish flat ground.
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Wrong approach? Have a clamp-on receiver too but prefer the welded one so far.
Use the bucket receiver hitch on the B20 (23 years), B26 (4years) to move trailers with 100s yards of compost/mulch, cords of wood with pintle and ball hitches. Can load a trailer with counter weight implements on back and then move the trailer. Transport and store log splitter and concrete mixer. Particularly handy moving trailers in tight quarters. Convenient to move trailers or boat when mowing the yard. With hitch bale spear moved hundreds round bales of hay. Stretched miles of barbed wire hitch mounted unroller. Have a hitch mount carrier for the 12V sprayer. Various hitch mounted hooks, vises and shop tools. Find the bucket hitch safe and convenient. Our TLBs like the OP are tougher and stronger than their ag or homeowner counterparts.
I see a fellow on eBay that sells a plate assembly with a receiver hitch and hooks that can be bolted to the top of FEL buckets.
This is what I'd like to do but the cheap bucket on here would need a lot added to it to be able to do that, for now I got a clamp on one that I just used, just been looking for alternatives.
Here is a pic of the top of my bucket, I'd have to add quite a bit of steel to be able to do that
Shared album - Michael Turpin - Google Photos