ISEKI steel Hydraulic lines Question ?

[ampa]

I have an ISEKI G-174 3 cyl. diesel 4x4 that I'm tryin' to tap into the main onboard hydraulic lines to control my new front mounted snowblade,I bought a double lever valve as I'm gonna' use two rams/cylinders,one for raisin' it and the other for the angle, there's a small steel line(P) and large one(T)>>> view inclosed photo below, are there a speicial connectors to order or do I need to cut them ?, are they standard or metric?,would I need to install compression fittings?,a hydraulic supply dealer asked me these questions, info needed>>>>>>>thanks in advance Ampa

 

[Kernopelli]

The smaller line is the pressure line the larger is the suction...both should be able to be traced back to the pump. The pressure line can be cut and the compression fittings work fine from m experience. I don't know about your particular machine but my experience with Mitsubishi and Yanmars has been that they are 12mm lines...you will need to measure the O.D. to get a good idea of exactly what size you need. If you don't have anything to measure with ( micrometer, etc) you can get by in a pinch using open end wrenches. I will bet the line is metric but use some standard sizes too and go with whatever gives you the tightest fit on the tube. Cut the line and run a hose from the new compression fitting into your valve then another out of the valve and back to a second compression fitting placed on the other side of the cut line ( you'll probably want to cut a short section out of the hydraulic line to make room for the new fittings) to complete the circuit. Pretty straight forward. You can cut the line anywhere between the pump and where it enters the trans housing....whatever allows the best fit. Here is a link to a similar install for a loader on a Yanmar.....same theory Koyker loader install on a Yanmar

 

[ampa]

Hi Darryl, would you believe the two young guys who work in the hydraulics dept at Princess Auto up here in Ontario Canada told me I had to cut both the small and large lines,for instance the small line to the valves "IN" ("P") (pressure) and intall a compression "Tee" to the large steel line then connect to the other side of the valve marked ("T" then back into the tractors transmission,the instructions you Linked me to for installing a loader, shows the return left intact(uncut),makes perfect sense to me, Wow,it's a good darn thing I didn't follow these two young guys advice, tap into from the main small line from that runs from the the tractors drivin' hydraulic pump then back to my new addition (valve) into the side of valve marked ("P") then to the end of valve marked ("T") *return* into the tractors transmission,it's really too bad the factory didn't extend these hydraulics to the front with supplied(QD)quick disconnects,but then I guess cost would have been a factor ,anyhow I'm so glad I asked before I jumped off the bridge,and discovered there was no water below LOL,I do thank you with all my heart, these two young guys hadn't any clue to what I was wanting to do, had I'd done it the way they suggested I would have had to buy another compression connector if they made one that large an splice the line back together,when all I had to do is cut the one single small line, thank you ever so much Darryl,and take care>>>>>Ampa :thumbsup::thumbsup:

 

[ampa]

Since we moved this past spring,I'm still tryin' to get organized,kinda' hard to do when I have this project to get finished, can't seem to find all my wrenches e.t.c. includin' my boxed set of ID/OD calipersis there must be someone on this forum that has this info,I really do need to know the correct size of my ISEKI's factory installed (P) small diamiter hydraulic steel line, and whether it's standard or metric, would be very helpful when I go fetch the correct compression fitting, be nice to choose the correct size first off, rather than guess it and have to buy both standard and metric or different sizes,only to have to if I can, return the unused fittings, would also helpful to others who need to tap into their ISEKI's hydraulics for whatever,thanks very much in advance......Ampa

 

[Kays Supply]

If it is the same one used on a Yanmar, it is a Weatherhead fitting # 7255x8 and a ferrel # 5165x8x12.

 

[ampa]

So in other words the steel hydraulic line is metric 12 mm like Daryl said it was,okay,the supply store where I'll be buying these compression fittings, are a Canadian Hydraulic Supply warehouse here in Ontario, Canada, they probley never heard tell of a Yanmar let alone an ISEKI,so I don't think the numbers you gave me will apply,they will have whatever brand they sell in standard or metric sizes ,they just needed to know the diamiter of the steel line I was tapping into,I will mention the Weatherhead fittings with the numbers you gave me,Thank you kindly, Kays Supply<<<>>>>Ampa

 

[ampa]

I have one more question to ask,and that is,the valve I purchased is a duel purpose valve,meaning it has two control levers one for the lifting of my snowblade and the other for angling the blade,for now I'm just goin' to connect the one for raising the blade,the other side will be plugged off till I get some more funds to complete the whole thing to hydraulics,anyhow the question is this, the ram for the raise and lower is single action,the two young guys told me that this side of the valve has to be looped back into the valve as it's only goin' to need one hose to it, the valve two levers has 3 threaded 1/4" inlets on top side 3 1/4" inlets for the other lever ,now the young fellow tells me the valve to control the single acting ram has to have a short hose routed back from the unused 1/4" to the last and 3 rd.exsisting 1/4" to relieve the pressure back into the system,that seems to sound about right,but now hows that goin' to work with the double acting ram for the angle which will have two hoses attached to it,there will still be that 3 rd. open 1/4" threaded hole what do I do with that one,do I cap it off,or does there have to be a TEE installed and that has to be looped back in to the system,I've never done this type of work before so this is why I'm askin' all these questions ahead of time,and I want to make quite certain these two young guys know what they are sayin' is correct,please and thanks in advance,if I new it was goin' to be such a job, maybe I should have stuck with the 12 volt acutator,see close up pic of new valve installed on fender of tractor showing the six 1/4" inlets or outputs in question<<<<>>>>Ampa :confused2:

 

[Kays Supply]

Just to play it safe, you might want to post the piping question on the hydraulic thread.

 

[ampa]

Thank You,will do that>>Ampa:thumbsup:

 

[ampa]

I've now got all the info I needed.....as of today this thread is classed as bein' complete.....Thanks TBN and all you guys for your sincere help <<<<>>>>Ampa :thumbsup:

 

[ampa]

I need to find out something about these ISEKI tractors...I think this be the best place to ask....the repair manual states some G-174 model....only require #90 rearaxle oil...I know my tractor has an internal hydraulic/tank system that operates the hydraulic 3 pt.....what kind of system do the other models have....I'm just curious to find out....cause I'm thinking of just using the exsisting hydraulic pump that runs of the side of the engine and mounting an external tank somewhere on my tractor....It's too confusing with the internal factory hydraulic setup...I'm still having an issue connecting my two hydraulic snowblade cylinders.....thanks in advance<<>>>Ampa

 

[BillS2009]

My TS-1610 uses hydraulic oil in the lift.

 

[ampa]

I know all hydraulic systems all require the use of hydraulic oil...but are your hydraulics part of the trans/axle case/housing...or should I say.... all internal...for example the valve/tank ... my G-174 ISEKI...has an internal system....this is why I 'm havin' issues settin' up a auxillary to run my new front mounted 48" snowblades operational lift and angle using the tractor on line hydraulic system....which to OP don't seem to be much of a problem..

the OP keep referring ther are two high "P" lines....one in and one out as a pressure release on my double valve.... I'm usin' double action cylinders/rams....I'm only using a single double acting cylinder for the angle operation of this ATV type snowblade....there is really no effort on turning it right and left I can turn it with one finger... my setup requires only one single double acting type cylinder/ram....

this is the main reason I posted the question....I've got everyone on the hydraulic section confused because they no very little or nothing about these greymarket ISEKI tractors...I need to find someone who has done this setup correctly so I can find out how it was done...instead of having some guess maybe I should do this or maybe that...not their fault at all and I'm not knocking anyone for it...believe me...

I was told politely from someone here to post my issue on the hydraulic section of TBN...and I did get a lot of help but also caused a lot of confusion because of the brand of tractor I own....so now I'm back to sqauare one....I have a bunch of pics of my project and will post all of them......thank you so much for your input and quick replay....take care....Ampa

 

[Sideways]

Ampa, I have an Iseki T1500f (174) with a front end loader.
I don't know much about what you are talking about but can take some pictures of the way it is plumbed into the hydraulic pump if that will help!

 

[ampa]

Thanks Sideways....I've got everything under control....I'm now up to the point of getting the hoses all made up...so not too far off from getting this snowplough up and running...gonna' change the the hydraulic fluid before I start up my tractor to see how everthing works...a lot of problems but lots of help from everyone here on TBN....wish me luck....take care Ampa <> :thumbsup:

 

[amanda11270]

I cant believe I actually found someone in the EXACT same boat as me. I just joined this forum after searching the internet for info on adding hydraulics to my Bolens Iseki G152. Im in the process of purchasing either a plow or snowblower. But im gonna need front hydraulics to raise or lower it. This thread verified exactly what I expected to have to do to add my live hydraulics. I am also in the process of building/designing my own snow cab. Pictures to follow.

 

[ampa]

<> Hi amanda..... very nice neat lookin' cab frame so far....your tractor looks like brand new as well...soon as I get back to this project of mine..

maybe today...and get this thing up and runnin'..I will post some new up to date photo's of it all plumbed in nicely with rubber insulated clamps...yes I will be honest and had a startup problem...

my own fault though....seems I centered myself on usin' a power beyond adapter that I thought....yes I needed this because of the onboard 3 pt. hydraulics....for which as I mentioned on other sections of TBN that I removed as much of my 3 pt hitch as I could and was no longer goin' to need or use it...I found rear finishmowers rear graderblades just don't cut it for me...

I like to work looking forward not backwards...still have a stiff neck from last winters snowploughin'..usin' my heavy graderblade Ugggg...anyhow someone suggested at least leavin' the hydraulics complete and if I ever needed to...I could....wrong...I'm now goin' to forget about this part of the system if it still works okay if it don't....

who cares...I've centered myself around gettin' my front snowblade to do all the snow clearin' this.. my opinion I dislike snowblowers to me.... that's what they do blow snow all over the place...like all over peoples property/vehicals etc. ... anyhow with my snowblade I'll have all functions within reach controled by me sittin' on my tractor...I'll now be able to control the raise/lift plus control left and right angle....

last year I mounted a 42" Craftsman snowblade on the front made a quick made up simple mount used a 12 volt electric winch Ugggg once again....forget about that idea.....anyhow a lot of rantin' on..... but heck....I now feel better havin' gone this route....very time consumin' plus a lot of headaces not mentioning very costly..but in my mind... well worth it.....I bought a ATV 4' (48")snowblade....

for the cost of it I'm quie satisfied..the bulk of the cost was the hydraulics....if you have completely made up your mind to go this route...to eleminate alot of problems don't follow my project exacatly...I had a lot of changing of parts.... part locations....if you need help just ask or read my many threads....good luck take care Ampa <>