Iseki TX1510 Sticking Clutch

[ballaterach]

I have an Iseki TX1510. On a number of occasions over the past 12 months when it hasn't been used for a while the clutch won't disengage.
Normally just by leaving it to warm up for a while this seems to free things up. However yesterday the same thing happened. I have trawled the forums here
and elsewhere and tried many of the suggestions; hitting the brakes whilst driving in high gear, running my rotavator on the PTO etc etc

I'm dreading the ' you're going to have to split the tractor and replace the clutch' response should I persevere with the 'gentler' attempts to free it off (I'm assuming
the clutch plate has become stuck to the flywheel) or is it really time to split?

If anyone has the part of the manual which covers the clutch I would be really grateful if you could post or email it to me I do have a manual obtained from Yenebiz in Belgium
but its a photocopy and not really great quality.

thanks in advance

 

[Ilikeurtractor]

Replacing the clutch isn't that bad of a job and then you can diagnose and replace all the worn parts such as the throw-out bearing etc. If you're having problems chances are they won't go away on their own with "mechanic-in-a-can" or other "persuasive" techniques. I'd cut to the chase, replace it, and you'll be good for another 20+ years under typical usage. Clutch parts are easy to find on ebay, at least in the US. There are a couple of threads on here showing clutch replacements that should be adequate to get you through the job without a manual.

 

[rich_ncal]

Do you park the tractor with the clutch pedal pushed down? On my TS1610 tractor the lever used to push down the clutch pedal when parked fell off. So now I use a block of wood or rock to hold this.

 

[ballaterach]

Yes there's a metal rod to keep it down and I always leave it like that with the Clutch depressed

 

[ballaterach]

Okay thank you for your reply. Just need to find the parts as you say and probably a mechanic who can do it as whilst I'm not stupid I'm not overly mechanically minded either!!

 

[fxrs55]

Okay thank you for your reply. Just need to find the parts as you say and probably a mechanic who can do it as whilst I'm not stupid I'm not overly mechanically minded either!!

Before you do that make sure the clutch pedal is adjusted right.
My tx1300f had a twist in the pedal that affected the adjustment.
Yours could have twisted while sitting with pressure
on linkage from being depressed all that time.

 

[Ilikeurtractor]

Okay thank you for your reply. Just need to find the parts as you say and probably a mechanic who can do it as whilst I'm not stupid I'm not overly mechanically minded either!!

If you can stand the wait, see what parts you'll need when it gets taken apart. I realize I stated to "replace it" above, but I really mean find out the root of the problem and correct it. On a Bolens G172 I have, the throw-out bearing was in the process of failing but the real problem was the clutch wasn't sliding on the spline due to corrosion over years of sitting in the elements. Unfortunately I had to break the clutch to get it off the splined shaft with a puller, but I may have gotten away with just cleaning it up and a little lube had it not broken upon disassembly. The disc faces appeared to be in good shape. I'd always recommend replacing the throw-out bearing unless it appears to be in very good condition and rolls freely.

 

[fxrs55]

Does your tractor have an inspection hole in the bell housing to inspect
the clutch. I have been told that other iseki owners were able to
slide a putty knife in through the hole and with a little effort
they were able to free stuck clutch. Here are a few pictures
of the inspection hole in my TX1300F.

 

[Ilikeurtractor]

Also as an FYI on the inspection hole, it allows the clutch to be unbolted from the flywheel if the tractor doesn't "play nicely" when being split. It's slow going as there isn't a lot of room to swing the 12 and 14 mm wrenches (IIRC) required to do the unbolt but it can be done. When the clutch in my G172 was frozen to the shaft I couldn't separate the clutch housing from the engine and I thought I was going to break the bell housing or engine casting with the wedges I was using to separate it before I stumbled on the "unbolting from flywheel" option - normally the clutch assembly remains on the flywheel during a split. Some tractors don't have an access port and I have no idea how the tractor could be split in this case without cutting a hole in the side to do the unbolting. It took a lot of heat and hammering in addtion to a torqued-up puller to get the clutch to break free (and break it did) from the shaft. If things aren't siezed up, the engine and clutch should separate very easily from the clutch housing.

 

[ballaterach]

Hi thank you for your post. Yes it has exactly the same inspection hole - can I ask does this unscrew or just pop in/out. also it appears to be 'sealed' round the edges with some material is that correct or is it just paint?