Iseki TX1510 Sticking Clutch

[ballaterach]

Thanks for your post any information/tips have got to be useful

 

[MBTRAC]

Hi Ballaterach,

Here's copies of the Parts manual as requested (this is for a TX1500F ):-

 

[ballaterach]

Thank you so much for your kind help

 

[Ilikeurtractor]

Hi thank you for your post. Yes it has exactly the same inspection hole - can I ask does this unscrew or just pop in/out. also it appears to be 'sealed' round the edges with some material is that correct or is it just paint?

It should just be paint. It will pop out with the same putty knife you might use to free the clutch. Be careful with a putty knife though as I cracked one of the clutch shoes trying to break it free from the pressure plate when I was having trouble. I was able to free it temporarily doing this, but as I said previously my problems were not in the actual clutch disk, but on the shaft. That's why I'd recommend just spliting it and correcting the root of the problem(s). I had tractors sit upwards of two years without the clutch locked in the depressed position without issue and one was in a fairly humid environment. If your clutch is sticking it will likely continue until split based on my experiences. Maybe others have had better experiences and hopefully they can share them here. I'm a big fan of "doing the simple stuff first" because a lot of times you can get away with it but I just haven't seen it in this case.

 

[ballaterach]

I'll give the putty knife a go but come to the conclusion you're absolutely right on the long term fix. many thanks for your advice

 

[ballaterach]

Okay have removed the 'inspection hole cover' when the clutch pedal is fully depressed a very small gap appears can't be accurate but would guess half a millimetre max - does this change anyone's opinions as to what the problem might be?

 

[ballaterach]

Right guys so if i'm going to replace my clutch can you advise that I should replace all these parts or not - Clutch Plate, Cover, Release bearing (Throwout bearing),Disc, Pressure plate and Pilot Bearing

If there's anything else whilst it's split I would be grateful again for your kind advice

 

[Ilikeurtractor]

See if you can rotate the clutch all the way around one revelotion and check the gap at all the shoes. I think a 1 mm gap is about all you'll have but I'm not sure of the exact dimension off the top of my head.

If it were me I'd get it apart and look at everything before deciding what to buy. Sometimes the release fingers on the clutch cover are worn because the throwout bearing has failed and you need to replace the assembly (or just the fingers if you can find them separately). In the two tractors I've had apart the fingers were fine so there wasn't a need to replace that part. Had I not broke the clutch disk the only thing I would have had to buy was a new throwout bearing and the one I had still worked but it did not roll freely. Generally most people try to keep repair costs minimized but it wouldn't hurt to replace all those things I just wouldn't unless I needed to. All those parts new will add up to some significant costs relative the to the market value of the tractor especially when labor is added in although the labor cost won't change much on how many new parts you put back in. I'd make sure whoever does the work puts a small amount of grease on the shaft and clutch spline when it goes back together to help prevent the problem I ran into.

 

[fxrs55]

here is a picture of how the clutch pedal was twisted on my tractor.

 

[fxrs55]

here are a few pictures, Check them to see what fingers should look
like when they are not worn. Also shows were there should
be a gap between fingers and release bearing.