Iseki TX2160 HST- Alternator I.D. and Connection

[TomOnTractorByNet]

The wiring from the alternator in my Iseki has separated where it had been joined by a previous owner.

The alternator has only 2 wires coming out of it, and they're both green.

The original wiring loom has 4 wires that are wired back to the following terminals on the Voltage regulator:

Wire 1:White wired back to the A Terminal
Wire 2:Yellow wired back to the N Terminal
Wire 3:BlacK wired back to the E Terminal
Wire 4:White with a Black Stripe wired back to the F Terminal

As far as I can see, the 2 alternator wires had been connected to wires 1 & 2, as 3 & 4 were cut low down.

Can anyone advise how I can establish which of the green wires I should connect to wires 1 & 2 (i.e the A and N terminals of the Voltage Regulator)? What are the connections at A and N actually carrying?

Thanks in advance

 

[TomOnTractorByNet]

Here is a copy of the Wiring Diagram

 

[Ilikeurtractor]

Since that appears to be a retro-fit alternator (i.e. not original) it will be hard to establish which wires go where since there are only two and they are both the same color. Page 49 of the service manual (if you have it) shows the original alternator wiring - B and A are essentially the '+' connection, E is ground, F is the 'field' and its current is controlled by the regulator, N is considered 'neutral' but I don't exactly know what it's role is except that it apparently is used in the circuit for the charging light relay. The field current is controlled by a relay in the regulator that switches on and off (quickly) to keep the output voltage of the alternator around 13.5-14.5VDC.

 

[TomOnTractorByNet]

Thanks for your reply.

Is there a test one can perform on the Alternator (using a test lamp or Multimeter) that would identify the + wire out, which I would then connect to the white wire to the regulator. I could then connect the other wire to the yellow back to the regulator.

Does this make sense? Unfortunately, I don't have a service manual- just the owner's manual.

 

[Ilikeurtractor]

I'd recommend acquiring a used or new replacement. You have some options as far a what one to buy. I know there are alternators with built-in regulators (GM among others) you could adapt or try to find an OEM. New OEM or knockoff will be difficult but not impossible to find. Used shouldn't be that hard if you call around the tractor suppliers. The problem is you're missing the correct connectors on the tractor side and they can be hard to come by. You could try hooking up a DC voltmeter to the two green wires and see what happens and go from there.

 

[NHmitch]

Hi,
I replaced mine, and found the OEM alternator. Below is copied from a post i did about two years ago. There are other items in the thread that may be useful to you. Keep us updated on how it goes. I also have a source for the plug that goes into the alternator if you need it.

It's a Nippondenso alternator, and an exact match for the OEM alternator. I did quite a bit of searching when I bought it. It is exactly the same one that came on the tractor when it was new. It is not cheap, it is $149. It was a big job too, because the screws that hold the alternator are on the inside of the fan belt area, so you have to do a lot of reaching. Also be very careful with the plastic plug, that plugs into it, because they can become brittle when the are old. It was very nice to have the new alternator in it. The tractor seems to run better, and the lights are much brighter, plus I don't have to jump start it all the time.


The link for the alternator is, http://www.spidermarine.com/ShowItem/102088 New Nippondenso 12 Volt 35 Amp Satoh Alternator.aspx

 

[NHmitch]

Sorry, forgot to add, this is the link to the thread. I also replaced my voltage regulator. The voltage regulator is behind the dash next to the turn signal switch. The link for the exact replacement is: http://www.ebay.com/itm/8003-90-NEW...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f2c45e767&vxp=mtr

NHmitch's Restoration Thread

 

[TomOnTractorByNet]

Thanks Mitch. That's very helpful.

However, the Restoration Thread is linking out to the same ebay page for the regulator.

Thanks.

Tom.