It was working just fine...

[joe48]

Just in case I missed it when I read thru. Besure to ck and clean the heavy cable terminal at the starter after you've cleaned the battery terminals. I've had both dirty corroded terminals and had corrsion so bad when I pulled the wire off the crimped terminal end actually fell off the wire, so don't assume anything is ok just because it looks ok.

 

[SalC]

To report back, I took the old battery off and tested it - stone dead as Joel mentioned. The terminals were blackened and the negative post was easy to remove without loosening the 3/8" nut. The battery posts were also blackened.
I cleaned the battery posts and charged the battery overnight. After re-installing, the dashboard lights came on. However, one twist of the key and they went off and stayed dark. I am becoming convinced that there is a relay which prevents power from energizing the dashboard without sufficient current.
Looks like a new battery for me and a word to the wise - check your battery terminals periodically and clean them to prolong the life of your battery.

 

[IXLR8]

You need to make sure you cleaned off all that blackened stuff. It is Lead Oxide and not very conductive, you must get it cleaned down to the shiny silver stuff. Sometimes the black stuff is very hard and difficult to clean off.. but it must be cleaned off, both the battery terminals and the battery clamps. Sometimes a wire brush is enough, often you need some sort of scraper to get things properly clean.

 

[JoelD]

Agreed with ixlr8, took me a couple of tries to get everything clean and tight.

It's amazing how perfect those connections need to be.

If not, train comes off the tracks.

All seems perfect, then turn the key and DEAD.

I've taken appart and put together a bunch of times and now all seems well.

I've not experienced this before, must be some heavy amp draw on these tractors, much more than car or lawn tractor.

Joel

 

[IXLR8]

I've not experienced this before, must be some heavy amp draw on these tractors, much more than car or lawn tractor.

Joel

Gas engine 8.5:1 compression, Diesel 19:1 compression... takes a lot more power to spin a diesel than a gas to start it.

 

[BJN644]

Have you load tested the battery? this is a routine battery test that will tell you in an instant if your battery is any good. If don't have a load tester any auto shop will have one and should be able to test it cheap.

 

[JoelD]

Not sure if relevant, but my load test, as instructed to perform by others on this site was as follows.

Hook up volt meter to terminals of battery while still in tractor. Turn on lights or something else and see what kind of voltage drop I get. If little to none, but lights don't function as if they are getting to little voltage. Test again this time at cables, if voltage drop at cables but not terminals, then it's the connections.

Was the case with my machine.

Joel

 

[BJN644]

A battery load tester will put around 200 amps of load on the battery, a nose dive in voltage and lack of recovery indicates the battery is bound for the recycling yard. A very common and quick procedure in the automtive repair field.

 

[SalC]

And now, the rest of the story. To jump to the end, my tractor is working fine now. BUT, it took some doing.
I took the old battery to Wal-Mart and got me a new $70 battery. I took it to the tractor, double-checked the shine on the posts and terminals and installed it. Ah, almost done. When I tried the key - Nothing. Zip. The hazards did not flash.
Remembering Joels story, I went back and checked the terminals for tightness. Positive was OK, but Negative was a little loose and I could twist the terminal on the post. No problem. I cranked it down tighter.
OK, let's check it out. Turn the key and... nothing. Now I'm getting just a wee bit torqued. Stoopid Wal-Mart selling me a flat battery. mutter mutter. So I charged it. Go off and do some other work and come back several hours later.
OK this time it will work, right? No, it did not. Doh! I charged it again
and came back. Still no joy. I checked the voltage and it showed 12 volts. While holding the probe on the starter terminal, I pulled out the hazard switch and there was an immediate drop in voltage to about 4 volts. Hmmm. Same response for the dashboard panel.
I then checked the voltage right on the battery posts. This required the assistance of my wife to hold the negative probe on one side of the tractor while I held the positive. 12 volts. I then turned on the hazard switch and the voltage did not change. Hmm. No voltage drop at the battery posts but a big drop at the cables. I checked the positive cable. It is clean and sound with no sign of corrosion. Same for the negative cable; looks good. But wait, the other end of the ground cable is attached to the frame with washer and a bolt, which looks a little rusty. Hmmm. I loosened that bolt and twisted the cable and washer.
Then I tried the hazard switch. BINGO! She flashed bright yellow lights with enthusiasm. Turn on the dash panel and red lights come on. Yippee. It started right up. So, what started out as a negative story had a positive ending. And that is the long and short of it.

Thanks for all your input and advice.
Sal

 

[LBrown59]

Betcha didn't need the new battery

And now, the rest of the story. To e end, my tractor itteryife to hold the negative probe on one side volttery posts. This required the assist
t me a new $cked the 70 baance of my wof the he voltage did not change. H
I then chemm. No voltage drop at the battery posts but a big drop at the cables. I checked the positive cable. t and twisted the cable and washer.
Then I tried the hazard switch. BINGO! She flashed bright yellow lights with enthusiasm. Turn on the dash panel and red lights come on t and advice.
Sal