J354 arrived - Parts left over, identify please

   / J354 arrived - Parts left over, identify please #1  

crofutt

Bronze Member
Joined
Jun 28, 2005
Messages
61
Location
Pacific Northwest
Tractor
Jinma 354
Hello,
My JM354 arrived to day (self import) and so far so good. I know everyone says the Chinese fluids are junk, but mine seems to be the exception. All look good so far. Battery even was full of electrolyte. All together in about 7 hours so it went much better than expected.... that is for a couple parts left over. Can anyone identify these? I have a few other parts too but I am pretty sure they are for the FEL.

Thanks
Bill
 

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   / J354 arrived - Parts left over, identify please #2  
Dontcha just love new tools /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

My 284 also had a pretty reasonable looking oil in it when it was delivered. Looked to be straight 30wt and was the same oil in all systems of the tractor. I still replaced it and flushed all of the compartments with just 1-2 hours run time on the clock playing around in the yard. I did get a little bit of water contaminated/imulsified oil out of the front axel when I drained it. I also got a LOT of crud/dirt and metal shavings out of mine when I flushed it. The kero I flushed with was clear/red when I started and you could see to the bottom of a 5 gallon container. The kero I drained out of the tractor after flushing is nearly black and you can't see but a inch or so into it now. It also has a lot of metal particles in the bottom of the container, most from the hydraulic resovoir which I flushed using kero fed under pressure from a windshield washer pump. I made a spray wand out of thin aluminum tube that I could get way into the resovoir. This allowed me to flush all the metal shavings I could see in the cavities in the bottom of the resovoir to the drain port. I use this dirty kero along with the original oil to light brush piles on fire. That original oil that came out sure is flamable. It lights very easilly compared to regular motor oil.

In my opinion, the oil that came with mine is too heavy for the hydraulics, particularly in a cold climate. If you search back in the forum you will see some posters who were having problems in the cold with slow/non functional hydraulics. this was usually with the original fluids still in the tractor. Too much restriction on the hydraulic suction, such as trying to draw thick cold oil can be hard on the pump and shorten it's life. I use AW32 in my hydraulics.

If you search back in this forum, you will also come upon several cases where posters have complained of low oil pressure when running hard in warm weather. That will happen with a straight weight oil. A multi weight oil(15W40) will hold up much better and allow you to maintain proper oil pressure under higher temps and loads. It will also flow better during a cold startup.

Call me old fashioned but I think gear boxes should have gear oil in them. I don't know the petegree of what was originally provided, but mine didn't appear "sticky" enough to function properly where gears mesh, particularly when hot. I put 80W90 (yellow metal safe, anti foaming)GL-4 in mine.

Good Luck and enjoy your new toy... I mean tool:)
 
   / J354 arrived - Parts left over, identify please #3  
looks like maybe the plate that goes under where the ROPS bolts to the rear axle? and where the swing limit chains bolt on to
 
   / J354 arrived - Parts left over, identify please
  • Thread Starter
#4  
RonMar - Thanks! I plan on draining the fluids anyhow but I thought it was interesting how mine came. Since it is brand new off the boat, maybe they are changing the way they do things. The pallet the tractor came on had small wheels allowing easy movement and the assembly time seemed much less than others have mention. I assume due to less work to do. Everything fit fine except for the ROP that had to be "sprung" a little to get the pivot bolts in. Engine strarted right up and sounds fine. Going for a "test drive" this AM.

Schmalts - Thanks! I kind of thought they might go there, but if I use all 4 bolt holes then the "L" shaped attachment point would be under the ROP mounts and lift them 1/2" or so but only where that "L" is. Didn't seem right so I thought I better ask. I'll take another look this AM. I don't even know how to install the 3-point hitch. The lower arms are obvious as are the links to the upper arms. The other links/chain had me puzzled though. I guess I'll figure it out better when I try to attach something to it. What you say makes sense, I just have to figure out how they meant them to be mounted.

Now....if I can only figure out what all these levers and knobs do.....

Bill
 
   / J354 arrived - Parts left over, identify please #5  
those brackets are different than mine, 2002 284 but if they are the ones UNDER the ROPS then the L would be twards the back so that the 3 pt chain/arms can be attached to the L part to keep the lift arms form swinging too wide.

markM
 
   / J354 arrived - Parts left over, identify please #6  
the red one is for your tool box the other two fit under your rear axle up through fenders the hook fit to outside tractor your sway chains hook into them
 
   / J354 arrived - Parts left over, identify please #7  
Trying to add to the picture we are all trying to make with words, here: There should be long bolts that go through the fender and rops setting on top of the axle and these plates mounted under the axle so that the axle housing is sandwiched between.
 
   / J354 arrived - Parts left over, identify please
  • Thread Starter
#8  
I'm beginning to think these are the wrong parts. If mounted as folks here are suggesting, I couldn't bolt the ROP on as the loop thing would be under the ROP. Can't mount with any kind of through bolt like Bluechip mentions as the ROP, Fender and for that matter these brackets line up with the threaded holes in the axles housing. The ROP mount has holes that are accessible where an eye bolt could be installed to hook the chains. Otherwise, I really don't see how to mount these plates.... If they were longer, then they would work mounted under ROP.

Now for an update. Got the undercarriage installed for the hoe. This one is very heavy and doesn't have the notch others have mentioned as needing beefed up around. The oil in the Hoe looks terrible. Not like the stuff in the tractor. The FEL is not like shown in the manual (if that can be called a manual). This one has a mount that replaces the front end weight mount and then a bracket that is bolted onto the mounting arms slide into this mount. Or at least that is how I think it goes since there isn't any mention of these parts. Haven't figured out how I am going to actually mount the Hoe or FEL as I am working by myself. Back hurts now.....

Got a slight leak in the power steering cylinder. Not sure if it's leaking or just some oil that had been laying in the boot. Otherwise, no drips.

Got some really strange spare parts. A large bag of seals, head gasket (yikes), one of each valve, valve springs, valve cover gasket and what I assume are crank bearings. Kind of an odd lot of parts...

I have heard several people mention flushing the gearbox with kerosene. I know what the Chinese call kerosene is not what we call kerosene (I travel there regularly and have for over 10 years). I see the manual suggests doing this. I am leaning towards using auto transmission fluid (dexron NOT type "F"). That stuff has pretty high cleansing ability plus will lubricate well and could actually be left in for a while before draining and won't hurt the seals. Any opinions here? Pros / cons?

Thanks for all the suggestions and I would appreciate any info you guys can share.

Bill
 
   / J354 arrived - Parts left over, identify please #9  
Look at this link,it's on a 200 seires tractor but the same principle. Look under the rear axle you will see the long bolts going thru the black plate on the bottom, yours will do the same with the L portion looking down and towards the rear wheel,thats where the stabilizers hook to
http://www.chinaimporters.com/tractors/2043ptl.jpg

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
 
   / J354 arrived - Parts left over, identify please #10  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I am leaning towards using auto transmission fluid (dexron NOT type "F"). That stuff has pretty high cleansing ability plus will lubricate well and could actually be left in for a while before draining and won't hurt the seals. Any opinions here? Pros / cons? )</font>

I'd be afraid of what the ATF might do to the wafer thin paper/cork gaskets. I can tell you from personal experience that the kero flush caused no deterioration to my seals/gaskets. Plus, you'll need probably 10 gallons to flush properly. 10 gallons of kero is bound to be cheaper than 10 gallons of ATF

//greg//
 

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