Snow JD 1050 moving snow trouble

[dirtworksequip]

Very few tractors have down pressure on the 3ph. Think about it? Put down pressure on the rear implement and raise the rear wheels a little. NO TRACTION. Just the problem you are trying to get away from.

Sincerely, dirt

 

[TomWhite]

I modified my setup to stick a truck plow onto the front of my 1070.

That is a nice setup. I have seen a couple pictures you have posted of it, but would really like to know more about how the frame mounts to the tractor. Have you got any pictures or anything that would show more detail as far as what you had to do to mount that setup?

 

[AKfish]

Moving snow is a matter of "adjustment" for me, generally. Deep snow or heavy wet snow - I won't even use the FEL on the first run down the road. Drop it down just off the top of the snow and lower the rear blade into the snow, but maybe hold it up 4-5 inches off the road surface.

That way, the blade doesn't load up with snow pukin' over the top and stackin' up into a big ball all the way into the 3pt arms on the tractor.

Might have to take 3-4 swipes to clear all the snow down to the road surface. Usually, by the 2nd pass I can use the front bucket without having the front end want to crawl off into the ditch..

There's no doubt -- having filled tires is a tremendous advantage for good traction. But there are some downsides as well. I didn't want the headaches of big ruts and tears in my pastures and lawn areas with filled tires.

Best of luck.

AKfish

 

[Conservation]

As far as downward pressure, it would just be nice for the rototiller when it is reluctant to start digging.
I was all set to put fluid in the tires, and then I started getting talked out of it. The local JD dealer said he had a tractor in for getting thawed since the low temp ww fluid froze. Shouldn't happen, but it did.
I also mow a lot in the summer on some steep hills. I wonder if the extra weight will mean that I can't hold my normal gear up the hills. I wouldn't like that.
I also see that the manual calls for 21.5L-16.1 rear turf tires. Mine are 44X18X20's, which I would say are wider by a good amount. I'm sure that doesn't help in the snow where you want some pressure on the surface for traction. I called JD, and 440# of wheel weights are $1,300! I have a bunch of lead laying around in pig form, but I haven't found a good way to mount it usefully.
I was looking at the lane today, and come summer I will move the lane a bit so that it isn't the low point. I have no where to put the snow right now and it just fills up when it blows, which does indeed blow. Front chains are still an option, but I also need to get the rear to contribute. Keep the suggestions coming.

 

[Karl2]

The local JD dealer said he had a tractor in for getting thawed since the low temp ww fluid froze. Shouldn't happen, but it did.

Water contamination? Gets to 20 below here and ww fluid never froze.

 

[dqdave1]

I read that you have R1 tires on front and Turfs on rear. When you have four wheel drive; make sure thee rolling circumference is correct or you will have driveline problems

 

[Conservation]

I just checked,and it is OK. I think I am going to switch to a much narrower ag tire in the back. The wide turfs just aren't working for snow. If they were narrower, they would be better I'm sure. Thanks for the warning. If I can wing it, I will get some ags for winter and fill those.

 

[dqdave1]

I have loaded turfs and have no problems moving snow. I do have a back hoe on for weight also.

 

[zzvyb6]

You stated you have a loader, so with a chain, rope, or cable and some rigging, you can pull the rear blade down all you want. Run a roller or hawse type fairlead off the front weight bar and raise the loader UP.

 

[Conservation]

I like that truck setup on the front also. I have been thinking about fabbing up something like that. The thing that concerns me is that I may need to use the bucket at times, and switching over would take quite a while. I like the blade being closer to the tractor though. Can you post pictures of that setup?