JD 110 TLB Hydrostat Problems

[110TLB]

I have a 2009 model 110 TLB that I bought 6-7 years ago with just under 1000 hours on it from my local green JD dealer. The machine is my personal machine and currently has 1250 hours on it so it doesn't get much use. Since the day I bought it, I've had the same recurring issue while driving forward or reverse. The machine will randomly just stop moving as though I quickly removed my foot from the pedal even though I'm still on the pedal. It puts out a code for "Simultaneous command from Forward and Reverse" (-... or a long, short, short, short flash sequence) It happens randomly and may work for many hours without trouble or it may do it every 10 feet for hours on end. There's no pattern or common scenario when it happens. Totally random. And I'm 100% sure that I'm not pressing both pedals at once of course.

The selling dealer attempted to diagnose and fix the problem multiple times, each time thinking they fixed it by recalibrating the forward and reverse potentiometers. This went on for a few years and finally I just gave up on fixing it. However earlier this year I decided to try to fix it again and hired the commercial JD dealer from Oklahoma City (70 miles one way) to come down and give it a go. After three different trips from two different technicians, we ended up replacing both forward and reverse potentiometers as well as the throttle position potentiometer and calibrating them. We also put new bushings in the pedal quadrant to eliminate any flex or play that could have possibly been causing the other pedal to trigger the switch. Long story short, the problem was back with 1 hour of the last technician leaving. I notified them that they had not repaired it and they offered to send him back down down. I declined due to the expense I had already incurred and decided to let it ride a little longer while my wallet recovered.

Fast forward to this last weekend. The problem is still occurring so I shut off the machine in hopes it would go away as I have learned it sometimes does just by shutting it off and restarting it. The problem continued and added a new twist. Upon attempting to restart a third time, the key turns on and everything lights up like normal until I hit the starter and then nothing. Just like a dead battery except it is fully charged. This machine always starts in one turn and runs great which leads me to believe that two issues are related. I'm thinking the computer thinks a pedal is being pushed and therefore isn't letting the starter activate due to the same issue that is causing the drive issues.

I'm looking for suggestions and hopefully someone has seen this before and can point me in the right direction. Thanks in advance for your help.

 

[fried1765]

I have a 2009 model 110 TLB that I bought 6-7 years ago with just under 1000 hours on it from my local green JD dealer. The machine is my personal machine and currently has 1250 hours on it so it doesn't get much use. Since the day I bought it, I've had the same recurring issue while driving forward or reverse. The machine will randomly just stop moving as though I quickly removed my foot from the pedal even though I'm still on the pedal. It puts out a code for "Simultaneous command from Forward and Reverse" (-... or a long, short, short, short flash sequence) It happens randomly and may work for many hours without trouble or it may do it every 10 feet for hours on end. There's no pattern or common scenario when it happens. Totally random. And I'm 100% sure that I'm not pressing both pedals at once of course.

The selling dealer attempted to diagnose and fix the problem multiple times, each time thinking they fixed it by recalibrating the forward and reverse potentiometers. This went on for a few years and finally I just gave up on fixing it. However earlier this year I decided to try to fix it again and hired the commercial JD dealer from Oklahoma City (70 miles one way) to come down and give it a go. After three different trips from two different technicians, we ended up replacing both forward and reverse potentiometers as well as the throttle position potentiometer and calibrating them. We also put new bushings in the pedal quadrant to eliminate any flex or play that could have possibly been causing the other pedal to trigger the switch. Long story short, the problem was back with 1 hour of the last technician leaving. I notified them that they had not repaired it and they offered to send him back down down. I declined due to the expense I had already incurred and decided to let it ride a little longer while my wallet recovered.

Fast forward to this last weekend. The problem is still occurring so I shut off the machine in hopes it would go away as I have learned it sometimes does just by shutting it off and restarting it. The problem continued and added a new twist. Upon attempting to restart a third time, the key turns on and everything lights up like normal until I hit the starter and then nothing. Just like a dead battery except it is fully charged. This machine always starts in one turn and runs great which leads me to believe that two issues are related. I'm thinking the computer thinks a pedal is being pushed and therefore isn't letting the starter activate due to the same issue that is causing the drive issues.

I'm looking for suggestions and hopefully someone has seen this before and can point me in the right direction. Thanks in advance for your help.

That would be MAJOR frustration for me, as I am certain it must be for you.
Sorry.....I can't offer a suggestion.

 

[TractorGuy]

Except for the code it could be an intermittent seat switch or seat switch wiring problem. I would disconnect and jumper the seat switch wires and try it. If that didn't solve it I would figure out where the wires end and see if they can be jumped at the other end for testing.

I'm betting you are gonna be pissed when you finally get it solved.

From what you are saying I DON'T think it is in the forward reverse pots but if you wanted to check them yourself this is a thread I did on making connectors to do it with. Your 110 will probably have different voltage values than my 4310 does so use a manual for YOUR tractor.

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...ing/409098-built-ehydro-breakout-harness.html

What ever you do don't ever stick a fuse in the #12 slot. That wipes out the calibration and you would have to re calibrate to get it going again.

 

[AKfish]

Fast forward to this last weekend. The problem is still occurring so I shut off the machine in hopes it would go away as I have learned it sometimes does just by shutting it off and restarting it. The problem continued and added a new twist. Upon attempting to restart a third time, the key turns on and everything lights up like normal until I hit the starter and then nothing. Just like a dead battery except it is fully charged. This machine always starts in one turn and runs great which leads me to believe that two issues are related. I'm thinking the computer thinks a pedal is being pushed and therefore isn't letting the starter activate due to the same issue that is causing the drive issues.

I'm looking for suggestions and hopefully someone has seen this before and can point me in the right direction. Thanks in advance for your help.

I致e got a 2007 - 110TLB with ~2000 hrs. I致e never had the problem you致e described beyond a finicky seat presence switch that has nearly thrown me on the hood a couple times!

I have the technical repair manual with most (maybe all) the fault codes. If you could detail the codes, I might be able to shed some additional light on your issue. AKfish

 

[Industrial Toys]

Is it possible that moisure has gotten into connectors that go to the pots? That could fool the circuit. Does the machine ever see salt?

Reason why I think long and hard before hiring "EXPERTS".

 

[110TLB]

I've got a 2007 - 110TLB with ~2000 hrs. I've never had the problem you've described beyond a finicky seat presence switch that has nearly thrown me on the hood a couple times!

I have the technical repair manual with most (maybe all) the fault codes. If you could detail the codes, I might be able to shed some additional light on your issue. AKfish

Thanks AKFish. I've been on this forum since I bought this machine and I think I've read every post you've made about these machines. Thanks for your time.

The only fault code I'm getting is a -... or a long, short, short, short flash sequence. It's the one that the manual states is from pushing both pedals at the same time. No other symptoms or codes at all. I have the manual also and have studied it pretty well but that really hasn't given me any ideas past what we've already tried. To be honest, I'm leaning toward it being a faulty computer. I actually have a replacement computer from the same year model machine but going that route is a last resort due to having to reprogram it to my machine and needing service advisor to do so.

 

[TractorGuy]

I just re-read your original post. Is it still not starting? Have you checked all the cables and grounds?

I had to totally replace the cables on my backhoe this year. Wire corroded in the terminals and starter was dragging.

 

[110TLB]

Is it possible that moisture has gotten into connectors that go to the pots? That could fool the circuit. Does the machine ever see salt?

Reason why I think long and hard before hiring "EXPERTS".

No salt around here but I also suspected that moisture could be causing the problem at one point early on. I took the connectors off and inspected them hoping to see they were wet. No signs of water but I sprayed them with WD40 and blew them out and put them back together. The problem didn't go away. I still suspected water might be part of the problem for quite a while but it will happen in the heat of the summer when it hasn't rained for a month.

 

[110TLB]

I just re-read your original post. Is it still not starting? Have you checked all the cables and grounds?

I had to totally replace the cables on my backhoe this year. Wire corroded in the terminals and starter was dragging.

It isn't starting but I haven't had time to really work on it since my original post. I did get on it a few weeks ago and try to start it again with no luck. However I do think I heard the starter solenoid clicking and if that's the case then the starter issue might just be a coincidence. I'm hoping to get some time this weekend to work on it and at least fix the starter.

 

[110TLB]

So I came home early today to get a few hours to work on the machine. It still won't start but I determined that the starter is fine by jumping from the hot terminal. It just isn't getting the signal to start.

Here's the twist. It is now throwing a --.. code which is for the reverse potentiometer. TractorGuy, I just made one of your breakout harnesses to test the voltages on the pots. Thanks for sharing that idea. It will be very helpful.

 

[AKfish]

So, you don’t have power to the fuel solenoid and therefore it won’t start? And now it’s throwing a bad reverse pot code? How comfortable are you with the overall condition of the wiring harness from the ECM?
I needed to have JD re-flash the ECM on my 110 as the shop that replaced leaky O-rings on the electronic diverter valve totally reversed the loader functions as well as the 3-function rear mounted SCV’s. All the joystick motion and the diverter switches were back-@ssed! Hard to imagine...but up was down and curl was dump!
Anyway, it was a simple thing for them to re-flash the computer.
Along this line of thought; if me, I’d get a clean program and troubleshoot the wiring harness before I’d go so far as to replace the computer. Replacing the computer would be the next step after confirming there are no wiring gremlins and eliminating the possibility that the the software is corrupted.
Keep us in the loop as you pin this thing to the ground!

 

[jenkinsph]

Might try turning on and off the pto switch a few times to work the contacts on the switch. I had similar issues last year, no indication of pto being engaged but the contacts on the switch did not make contact. Not sure I ever used the pto in 15 years of use.

 

[jpolcyn]

If you think it is the computer i have a known good one to see if it fixes it.

 

[110TLB]

I'm sorry to be bringing this old post back up but I'm still struggling with the original issue. I found the issue with it not starting was due to a faulty PTO switch so ignore that information from above. The machine now operates as it should again EXCEPT for the reason for the original post on this thread. I had given up on getting the issue fixed but its still driving me crazy.

I'm still getting the "Simultaneous command from Forward and Reverse" error at random times. Sometimes it will go for an hour and not have an issue. Today it went 5 minutes and about 200 yards and just stopped. Same error code. I had to shut down and restart a dozen times just to get it back home. I've spent the rest of the day tracing wires looking for bad grounds or frayed wires. I found nothing out of the ordinary. The connectors for the forward and reverse potentiometers were bone dry and seated tightly. Nothing keeping the pedals from returning to neutral.

Hopefully someone has seen this before and has some new suggestions. I'm at the point I want to sell it but I won't pawn my problems off on someone else. Really I just want to fix the problem as I really like the machine.

 

[two_bit_score]

I'm sorry to be bringing this old post back up but I'm still struggling with the original issue. I found the issue with it not starting was due to a faulty PTO switch so ignore that information from above. The machine now operates as it should again EXCEPT for the reason for the original post on this thread. I had given up on getting the issue fixed but its still driving me crazy.

I'm still getting the "Simultaneous command from Forward and Reverse" error at random times. Sometimes it will go for an hour and not have an issue. Today it went 5 minutes and about 200 yards and just stopped. Same error code. I had to shut down and restart a dozen times just to get it back home. I've spent the rest of the day tracing wires looking for bad grounds or frayed wires. I found nothing out of the ordinary. The connectors for the forward and reverse potentiometers were bone dry and seated tightly. Nothing keeping the pedals from returning to neutral.

Hopefully someone has seen this before and has some new suggestions. I'm at the point I want to sell it but I won't pawn my problems off on someone else. Really I just want to fix the problem as I really like the machine.

I hope someone here can point you in the right direction.

 

[Hoss710]

I had a similar problem with my 4320. exactly the same issues and alarm. ended up being a proximity switch that had a piece of metal chip was on its face. not sure if the 110 has any proximity switches or not. I thought the switch was bad and bought a new 1. before I I pulled it. swamped the switch anyway. had no more problems since.

 

[Ranger350]

I'm sorry to be bringing this old post back up but I'm still struggling with the original issue. I found the issue with it not starting was due to a faulty PTO switch so ignore that information from above. The machine now operates as it should again EXCEPT for the reason for the original post on this thread. I had given up on getting the issue fixed but its still driving me crazy.

I'm still getting the "Simultaneous command from Forward and Reverse" error at random times. Sometimes it will go for an hour and not have an issue. Today it went 5 minutes and about 200 yards and just stopped. Same error code. I had to shut down and restart a dozen times just to get it back home. I've spent the rest of the day tracing wires looking for bad grounds or frayed wires. I found nothing out of the ordinary. The connectors for the forward and reverse potentiometers were bone dry and seated tightly. Nothing keeping the pedals from returning to neutral.

Hopefully someone has seen this before and has some new suggestions. I'm at the point I want to sell it but I won't pawn my problems off on someone else. Really I just want to fix the problem as I really like the machine.

Hi 110TLB, i've owned a 2007 model since new. Check for a stuck direction pedal. If they don't return fully you'll get an error.
You can lubricate the bushings to get it working smooth again.
Check your Creeper direction switch that it isn't stuck down. Common to get stuck with dirt. Maybe faulty internally. If that switch is in operation it cuts out the pedals.

If you're still having a starter issue but you have key-on power try jumping the starter solenoid. If it starts, check starter relay on relay board for operation / corrosion. Final check will be the connector on the back of the key switch. Mine was corrosion on the key switch terminals. Clean and grease.

If you have safety switch problems with the seats its common for the wires to get caught and break. Fix and zip tie out of the way of the flip brackets. Especially if the suspension it worn. If the suspension is worn just make new bushings, john deere wants a kings ransom for a replacement.

 

[110TLB]

I wanted to come back and post what I did to fix the issue. The problem turned out (I think) to be a bad connection between the wiring harness and the transmission controller. I was just taking a shot in the dark when I decided to check the controller and look for anything that looked off. The controller sites behind/under the fuel tank so the tank had to come off to access the controller. There's just one connector from the wiring harness into the controller. I disconnected it, blew it out and cleaned up the pins on the controller side. Before I reattached the plug I used my multimeter to check continuity on all the wires that I could trace. Nothing looked out of the ordinary except for one wire that had a two small cuts in the insulation. The cuts didn't go through to the wire so I taped that up and then reassembled everything. That was in late April of 2023. It has been operating normally for the two years since then. At the time I really didn't have a lot of confidence that I had fixed anything but it seems to have done the trick. Thanks to all of you that took the time to offer suggestions and ideas. So glad to have this frustration behind me.

 

[ultrarunner]

Appreciate the update from a fellow 110 owner…

 

[chaz83]

I wanted to come back and post what I did to fix the issue. The problem turned out (I think) to be a bad connection between the wiring harness and the transmission controller. I was just taking a shot in the dark when I decided to check the controller and look for anything that looked off. The controller sites behind/under the fuel tank so the tank had to come off to access the controller. There's just one connector from the wiring harness into the controller. I disconnected it, blew it out and cleaned up the pins on the controller side. Before I reattached the plug I used my multimeter to check continuity on all the wires that I could trace. Nothing looked out of the ordinary except for one wire that had a two small cuts in the insulation. The cuts didn't go through to the wire so I taped that up and then reassembled everything. That was in late April of 2023. It has been operating normally for the two years since then. At the time I really didn't have a lot of confidence that I had fixed anything but it seems to have done the trick. Thanks to all of you that took the time to offer suggestions and ideas. So glad to have this frustration behind me.


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I had the same issue but ended up replacing controller many bucks later.On a side note for anyone looking on getting the the trans controller repair Industrial Board Repair can fix these
controller Industrial Electronic Board Repair 1-336-310-4172 way cheaper than JD