3-Point Hitch JD 2130 load control arm fouling load shaft install

[Ausmac]

Hi all. Originally had a thread running from purchase of my new JD 2130. I am currently working on 3 point hitch problems so will continue thread in correct place.
My load shaft seals are leaking. I have managed to find what I think are the correct seals after Tech told me there have been 16 seal variations since the model began. I have my load shaft out, and the shaft seals, but now the load control arm plug (key 21) is fouling putting the shaft back in square. I would hate to jam it in on an angle and tear the seals. There is a negative stop screw adjustment bolt shown in my TM but I am having trouble finding it on my tractor. Wonder if it is behind a plug or if it is a rockshaft cover off to get to it? TX Jim has been very helpful throughout this topic, seeing as I haven't ever had anything to do with JD hydraulics before, and draft control on my other tractors is totally opposite to this kind of set up.

 

[RickB]

Put the Load/Depth selector in D if you have not.

 

[Ausmac]

Thanks Rick. Yes definitely in D, draft arms lowered, I was thinking maybe everything is out in the load selector assembly and when I have pulled out the load shaft it has all relieved and let the control arm come away that extra bit. In D, the control arm should not touch the load shaft I would think. I was discussing that I was trying to not have to pull the rock shaft cover but not sure that will happen.

 

[Zebrafive]

Hi all. Originally had a thread running from purchase of my new JD 2130. I am currently working on 3 point hitch problems so will continue thread in correct place.
My load shaft seals are leaking. I have managed to find what I think are the correct seals after Tech told me there have been 16 seal variations since the model began. I have my load shaft out, and the shaft seals, but now the load control arm plug (key 21) is fouling putting the shaft back in square. I would hate to jam it in on an angle and tear the seals. There is a negative stop screw adjustment bolt shown in my TM but I am having trouble finding it on my tractor. Wonder if it is behind a plug or if it is a rockshaft cover off to get to it? TX Jim has been very helpful throughout this topic, seeing as I haven't ever had anything to do with JD hydraulics before, and draft control on my other tractors is totally opposite to this kind of set up.

First what is the serial number of your tractor?
I am using Part Catalog PC4143
I would install the load shaft without the seals. You can then slide the shaft in enough to install the seal on one side then slide the shaft back out. So for each side slide the shaft in far enough to clear the seal groove of the bushing, install the seal, then slide the shaft back out, but do not remove the shaft.


I know you are having trouble finding the negative stop screw. The drawing shows three possibilities. See first drawing from JD parts
One is no 3pt hitch (just plugging the hole, and not yours)
Next is for two speed (540-1000rpm ) PTO.
Third is for 540rpm PTO.
Note both of the last two options have lock nut on the screw to hold it's adjustment. So look on the back of the tractor for hex head cap screw with a lock nut.

540-1000 will be at bottom of the rear cover that has the PTO shaft coming out. See second drawing from JD parts

For the 540rpm PTO, look at the rear and forwards of the sway block.


I also know you are having trouble getting the load shaft in

Now for a different idea, than trying to move the Lever key 9 with the negative stop screw, see if you can get a wire around the lever (through the hydraulic oil fill hole) and pull back on the lever with the wire. See first drawing :confused3: May or may not work :confused3:

 

[Ausmac]

Zebra, I reckon you have answered and given me plenty of tips to try. Very much appreciated! I get my seals on Tuesday so I will report back then to either let you know I have succeeded or come crawling for more information! I do like the wire trick, I am ashamed as an Aussie that I didn't think of it. We fix almost everything with wire and pliers! Also, the 540/1000 PTO, not familiar with that, is it just a matter of changing the PTO shaft to change speeds or more to it than that? I wonder if i have that option? I guess if the adjustment screw is located in that area I have it. Why a tractor the size of a 2130 would have 1000 PTO is also questionable....

 

[Zebrafive]

I have not seen this model tractor, but it looks like you need to remove a snap ring, then swap PTO shafts and reinstall the snap ring.

My 2030 has only 540 PTO.

 

[Ausmac]

So this is what the back of the 2130 looks like. Can't seem to find anything with a lock nut on the bolt, different to the you tube video I watched. Might try the wire trick....

 

[Tx Jim]

This is the photo I inadvertently didn't upload on your other thread. I don't see the hole for access to NS screw that I thought was there in your photo.

 

[Ausmac]

Hmmm. Very interesting. I guess that is the difference between a German and American machine. In my research I have been looking at mostly 2030 models. Made in Iowa and everything lines up. Drawings, parts etc. 9 times out of 10 I will search 2030 then relate it to my tractor and use that info.

 

[Ausmac]

Is this hole what is shown in your drawing Jim? I thought it was a drain hole for the cavity behind the pto housing. I will have to have a look tomorrow and see if there is a bolt in there. At the moment there is lots of dirt I know from previous owner.