Chains JD 2520 Front wheels traction in Snow

[p0peye]

I just tried the tractor in the snow for the first time and the front wheels spin and slide on the smallest incline. I have R4's rears are loaded and they were fine. I was pushing a small amount of snow on a grassy area using 4 wd no traction in the front. I ordered and received chains for the rear and will use them when needed.
My question should I order chains for the front and will they help . Any suggestions ie lower air pressure in the front. Thanks

 

[sal64]

I just tried the tractor in the snow for the first time and the front wheels spin and slide on the smallest incline. I have R4's rears are loaded and they were fine. I was pushing a small amount of snow on a grassy area using 4 wd no traction in the front. I ordered and received chains for the rear and will use them when needed.
My question should I order chains for the front and will they help . Any suggestions ie lower air pressure in the front. Thanks

no the wheels are to small and there isnt much weight. i have a jd990 v bar chaines in rear and homemade chains in front and i still cant stear it in heavy snow.

 

[Deadman]

I think thats the nature of the R4 tire. There is absolutely no biting edges for side-traction. They are like big slick race car tires, but they are half cut out. Yeah, they look like they should do good in snow, but they really suck bad.,
If I could find a set of R1's for my 2520, I would buy them.

Last winter I had a car stuck in the snow, and I tried to pull it out with the 2520 with R4's and ballast box with 500Lbs in it. Tractor could not do it, because the ground was snow covered. I went and got my Polaris Sportsman 700 ATV, and its 4x4 also. I hooked onto the car, never jerked it, and it did spin some, but its knobby tires cut thru the snow and got down to the gravel, and it pulled that stuck car right out. That should NOT happen, but its just the R4 tire.

I would put chains on the front and try it!

 

[Runner]

I would suggest becoming familiar with, and using, the independent brakes for steering. I struggled with it for awhile, then started using brakes to enhance steering and the problem was solved (mostly...).

 

[Kevin M]

It seems like chaining R4s and R1s the chains fall in between the lugs, On my 755 which was replaced by the 2520, I run turf tires with all 4 chained. I have about 500 or 600lbs on the back and it pushes a 6 1/2 western plow like a bull dozer. Last winter we had a bad storm here on the east coast dumping several feet of heavy wet snow and I pulled two trucks out with it. One was a 2500 chevy duramax which I drug sideways after he slide into a tree which was lodged between the front bumper and plow. The other was a crew cab Ford 150 which went into a 6 by 4 foot ditch , that was also pulled out very easy after the owner was unsucessfully pulled by another Pickup which spun. Traction is key , Weight + Tire Chains = sucess !

 

[ovrszd]

I'm talking a smaller tractor and am chained rear, R4s. When plowing with my front blade at an angle I use diff lock to keep the front from drifting. Doesn't help in corners but at least it'll plow straight. My 2210 doesn't have individual brakes, which many people on here say isn't needed. I contend they haven't pushed much snow.....

 

[zzvyb6]

R4 tires generally have a harder (less natural rubber) compound in the tread, hence they inherently have less forward bite on ice and snow surfaces. But that's why they last longer. You should put as much weight on the front as you can and lower the tire pressure to get a little more grip. On slick ice ('warm' ice) tread has little to do with grip. Its a surface adhesion situation.

The best thing you could do would be to get another set of wheels and put some real car snow tires on the front. There are several brands and models of real snow tires, not All Seasons constructions.

The way you can tell is to park it on ice and push the front axle sideways (by hand as necessary). With 'snow' tires having a soft, high fraction rubber tread, you won't be able to do this at all.

I know that there will be a chorus of disbelievers, but I worked on tire traction, wear and durability measurments and specification for over 25 of my 40 years wih the car industry.

In God we trust. All others bring DATA.

BTW: You'd be surprised at the benefit of adding tungsten carbide studs to the tread blocks, but they will scratch a concrete or asphalt roadway. Nothing like 200 - 500 lbs of front iron weight.

 

[catskinner]

My 2 wheel drive Ranger goes great in the snow and ice with the soft rubber winter tires, I just drive it when the roads are bad, theses tires don't last long but they stick like glue, I'd agree with ZZ on the tire swap, I would be like you bought a new machine. Less wear and tear on surface also than when using r4's with chains.

 

[kennyd]

The best thing you could do would be to get another set of wheels and put some real car snow tires on the front. There are several brands and models of real snow tires, not All Seasons constructions.

I don't think you will find snow tires small enough to fit the rims on a 2520. You MUST keep the proper size ratio to the rear tires because this is a 4WD machine.

Deadman wrote it right:

There is absolutely no biting edges for side-traction. They are like big slick race car tires, but they are half cut out. Yeah, they look like they should do good in snow, but they really suck bad.

 

[glc24]

Chains will do wonders for R4s.:thumbsup:

I would suggest becoming familiar with, and using, the independent brakes for steering. I struggled with it for awhile, then started using brakes to enhance steering and the problem was solved (mostly...).

DOUBLE DITTO!!

Greg