Recently I have noticed that my differential seemed to have a slip in it with an occasional knock. I thought it was the lift bars banging until today. I was pushing some brush & suddenly it wouldnt move. Then it would, then it wouldnt. Finally, I stepped in the differential lock pedal & could move as long as I kept my foot on the lock pedal. I limped it to the house & parked it. Any ideas as to the problem before I haul it to a shop?
JD 2630 trans/differential issue
- Thread starter Chitreano
- Start date
Tx Jim
New Member
Welcome to TBN
Sounds as if shaft(item 10) that spider gears fits on has become loose not keeping gears fully engaged. Be careful as loose spider gear shaft can damage differential case. One can raise rockshaft housing for a visual inspection to confirm shaft is loose.
Sounds as if shaft(item 10) that spider gears fits on has become loose not keeping gears fully engaged. Be careful as loose spider gear shaft can damage differential case. One can raise rockshaft housing for a visual inspection to confirm shaft is loose.
DJ54
Elite Member
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2009
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- Carroll, Ohio
- Tractor
- IH Farmall 656 gas/ IH 240 Utility/ 2, Super C Farmalls/ 2, Farmall A's/ Farmall BN/McCormick-Deering OS-6/McCormick-Deering O-4/ '36 Farmall F-12/ 480 Case hoe. '65 Ford 2000 3 cyl., 4 spd. w/3 spd Aux. Trans
Sounds like a broken axle, but after looking at the exploded view of your tractors axle assembly, I see it has a planetary drive. It appears the weakest link would be the smaller drive shaft, which is powered by the differential, to turn the planetary drive. That would be part #30 in this exploded view( hopefully the link will carry through) https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/79423/referrer/navigation/pgId/217272 Just from looking at the diagram, the axle shaft itself looks pretty beefy.
If either of those components are broken, power out of the differential will power out to the easiest side to turn. Using the differential lock, will power to both axles, and will move. It doesn't show where the brake disc is in that assembly, but, I'll assume it's on the smaller driveshaft powering the planetary drive. If it is, you should be able to apply one brake, or the other, and get the same results as using the differential lock. Which ever brake you apply, and it moves, you've found which side the problem is on. You're stopping the inner differential drive on that side, which will power out to the other axle.
If you've been using the differential lock while one wheel was spinning, pushing under load, I'd have to guess the sudden shock load has caused one of those components to break. Most operator's manuals area little sketchy on the use of the differential lock. They should not be engaged while one wheel is spinning from loss of traction, under load. You either stop when one wheel starts to spin, engage the diff lock, then easily let off the clutch until the mechanism locks the differential, driving both axles, or apply it before you get to a spot, you know you're going to need both rear wheels driving to push/pull the load through an area.
If your tires are loaded, or have wheel weights, or both, that will only add to the shock load required to turn the wheel not spinning. At some point, it will find the weakest link in the drive system, from the ring and pinion gears, out. IF that is your problem, and taking it to a shop to be repaired, they can probably explain it a whole lot better than I have, and how to use the diff. lock. They may even suggest feathering one brake or the other, to make the differential power out to the side that is not spinning, so there isn't such a shock load on the rear drive train.
If either of those components are broken, power out of the differential will power out to the easiest side to turn. Using the differential lock, will power to both axles, and will move. It doesn't show where the brake disc is in that assembly, but, I'll assume it's on the smaller driveshaft powering the planetary drive. If it is, you should be able to apply one brake, or the other, and get the same results as using the differential lock. Which ever brake you apply, and it moves, you've found which side the problem is on. You're stopping the inner differential drive on that side, which will power out to the other axle.
If you've been using the differential lock while one wheel was spinning, pushing under load, I'd have to guess the sudden shock load has caused one of those components to break. Most operator's manuals area little sketchy on the use of the differential lock. They should not be engaged while one wheel is spinning from loss of traction, under load. You either stop when one wheel starts to spin, engage the diff lock, then easily let off the clutch until the mechanism locks the differential, driving both axles, or apply it before you get to a spot, you know you're going to need both rear wheels driving to push/pull the load through an area.
If your tires are loaded, or have wheel weights, or both, that will only add to the shock load required to turn the wheel not spinning. At some point, it will find the weakest link in the drive system, from the ring and pinion gears, out. IF that is your problem, and taking it to a shop to be repaired, they can probably explain it a whole lot better than I have, and how to use the diff. lock. They may even suggest feathering one brake or the other, to make the differential power out to the side that is not spinning, so there isn't such a shock load on the rear drive train.