JD 3038e Homemade Cab

Agent Blue · Jul 18, 2012

Overall I think a full cab intimidates some. The build itself isn't that difficult with a good bandsaw and wire feed. The plan is the most important issue. This build is typical of the many others out there with a good design and taking the time to make metal openings square for a good door / window fit. Nice job. Sure beats spending 3-4k on a manufactured piece. Most of the materials can be purchased for the shipping cost of a new one. I don't know if the hockey puck idea is that functional. They are hard plastic with little give. I will use some form of rubber belting that can obsorb some vibration and eliminate its transmission to the roof tin. I am a fan of safety glass so I would seriously give another look to using a plastic counterpart. I don't know if it would make a huge difference but adding dynomat to the interior surfaces sounds like a good idea.
I plan on building a cab for my 4110 John Deere. Depending on how it works out there may be another for the New Holland TC55DA.
Again, nice work. Thanks for posting. It may encourage others to take a closer look at new fabrication ideas.

Mike476 · Jul 19, 2012

You can get dense foam rubber "street hockey" pucks that should take the load and provide more of the dampening effect you're looking for.

Hiltz · Jul 19, 2012

I realize this is alittle late but maybe it will help the next cab builder. Your tractor does not have to be level nor do you need to find a level area on your tractor to start your cab build. Just make sure you make a mirror image part when starting your build. All left and right cab parts should be mirror images of themselves thus no need for leveling. Heck you could put your tractor on the side of a hill and start your build as long as the left and right parts were identical.................cheers

Agent Blue · Jul 19, 2012

Hiltz said:
I realize this is alittle late but maybe it will help the next cab builder. Your tractor does not have to be level nor do you need to find a level area on your tractor to start your cab build. Just make sure you make a mirror image part when starting your build. All left and right cab parts should be mirror images of themselves thus no need for leveling. Heck you could put your tractor on the side of a hill and start your build as long as the left and right parts were identical.................cheers

Good point. I would assume if you cut pieces for one side the additional pieces would be the same measurement on the other. The horizontal structure pieces should be squared with the remainder of the structure. In this case assembly on a flat leval surface a level would be an extra measure of safety to control a solid square structure. A metal bandsaw would make the task much easier.

G.P.S.Investments · Jul 20, 2012

looks really good :drool:,also defindely looks better than the "redneck canopy that I saw in vernon B.C.:cool2:

800tundra · Jul 22, 2012

Inner doorlatch

Inside view

Outer door latch

800tundra · Jul 22, 2012

Had couple hours . Mounted door latch from an old combine from father in laws. Also got all rubbers for windows from it. Unfortunately the windows are tempered so unable to cut them to size. I had some plexiglass laying around to try in a small side window. Cracked when cutting with jigsaw. Cut it with die grinder. Very messy. Next time i get home will just bite the bullet and buy all windows. As far as Someone mentioned just make all pieces from one side to other same.i hoped the same also. The front and rear frame were set on on welding table squared and welded. Thats it unfortunately. As door is different shape, size then other side. For the top I squared front to back and then welded pieces in. Almost all brackets had to be made individually. To ensure proper gaps at fenders, floor pans, where loader meets front of cab , the door had to be different then other side to make it easy to enter exit, etc. etc.
Yes metal bandsaw is my next investment. I have been using mitre saw for figuring out degrees handheld bandsaw, small angle finder chopsaw and zipcuts.
Stationary bansaw would be ideal!!
Less dust fumes etc also

DutchHenryBrown · Jul 23, 2012

That is one fine looking Cab unit you do VERY good work.:thumbsup:

eddieirvine · Jul 23, 2012

800 Just an idea for you! I used to cut a fair amount of plexiglass and lexan, they sell a tool for cutting plexiglass, basically a curved tool with a sharp edge on it! what you do is score a line down where you want it to be, I used to score a good line say 4 or 5 times making sure it is a nice even cut, then if you have a bench or a place to hold or clamp the piece you cut, you basically snap it off by applying down pressure to the end hanging off the bench! very easy to do, if you have ever cut reg glass or watched someone do so, it is the same procedure for plexiglass! works very well, you will be a bit un easy the first time doing it, but the main thing is getting a good scoreing edge with the plexiglass cutter, it will break right on the scored line! it leaves a pretty nice edge when done, a bit of hand sanding on the edge and you are good to go! Eddie

Very nice job on the cab, and I know how you feel about getting tired of it!!! I found the best thing to do then is walk away for a few days, then get back into it! It helps me allot! Also always keep in mind this winter how nice it is going to be, A small cloeman lanter works very well to, A freind of mine uses one all the time in the winter, no fumes at all with a coleman lantern for a bit of heat! I would love to make one for mine also, but need some time, I have so many projects right not I am tripping over them in my wood shop, but it would be nice to have that in the winter time for sure!

RoyJackson · Jul 23, 2012

eddieirvine said:
800 Just an idea for you! I used to cut a fair amount of plexiglass and lexan, they sell a tool for cutting plexiglass, basically a curved tool with a sharp edge on it! what you do is score a line down where you want it to be, I used to score a good line say 4 or 5 times making sure it is a nice even cut, then if you have a bench or a place to hold or clamp the piece you cut, you basically snap it off by applying down pressure to the end hanging off the bench! very easy to do, if you have ever cut reg glass or watched someone do so, it is the same procedure for plexiglass! works very well, you will be a bit un easy the first time doing it, but the main thing is getting a good scoreing edge with the plexiglass cutter, it will break right on the scored line! it leaves a pretty nice edge when done, a bit of hand sanding on the edge and you are good to go! Eddie

I've done the same thing as described using a scriber. You do want to clamp the full length of the plexiglass to be snapped and scribe the ends as deep as you can.
I've done this up the 3/16ths thick plexiglass.

You can cut irregular sections with a jigsaw and the right blade. I suggest you use masking tape along the path of the cut to prevent damage from the jigsaw...that is, mark your cut line on the masking tape (sharpy works OK).