JD 310A fuel/air problem or?

[Guy37]

I have owned a 1978 JD 310A for the last 28 years to work (mostly to improve the decor)
on my small farm.
Last week, while working to pick up some heavy dirt, it quitted on me. No way to start it again.
A mechanic friend of mine, though not an expert on diesel motor, checked to see if the fuel was coming
through the filter, the pumps and the injectors. When everything was screwed back in place, surprisingly it worked again
for a while, although the motor was not settling properly, turning faster and then slower.
Yesterday, I changed the fuel filter and I was able to start it to move it a few feet as needed.
Today, nothing. It seems no fuel goes to the injectors. The transfer pump was taken out, checked and
is in working order. Fuel runs freely from the tank to the transfer pump.
It also goes to the injectors pump but still it does not start even with ether.

Does somebody knows where I should look at to fix this problem?
Thank you.

 

[thepumpguysc]

Yes.. u see that fitting on the top cover on the injection pump?? the 1 the return line screws onto..
Remove ALL the fittings.. ALL THE WAY DOWN to the alum. top cover.. you should have an open hole on the top cover..
NOW START IT..
IF it starts, the check ball in the fitting is clogged.. & that's not a GOOD THING.. prob. means the flex ring inside the pump has broken up & is sending chunks back to the tank.. or trying to..
The reason it shuts off is.. if u cant get fuel OUT.. u cant get fuel IN..
I rebuild those pumps & have 25-30 years experience.. lemme know if I can help.. TPG

 

[Tx Jim]

Ditto what thepumpguysc stated BUT a simpler test is loosen the 2 screws on timing window on IP. Be sure gasket is loose from pump housing,start engine if it runs correctly check valve in return line is clogged as previously stated by TPG.

 

[Guy37]

Yes.. u see that fitting on the top cover on the injection pump?? the 1 the return line screws onto..
Remove ALL the fittings.. ALL THE WAY DOWN to the alum. top cover.. you should have an open hole on the top cover..
NOW START IT..
IF it starts, the check ball in the fitting is clogged.. & that's not a GOOD THING.. prob. means the flex ring inside the pump has broken up & is sending chunks back to the tank.. or trying to..
The reason it shuts off is.. if u cant get fuel OUT.. u cant get fuel IN..
I rebuild those pumps & have 25-30 years experience.. lemme know if I can help.. TPG

Thanks TPG, I should be able to do it in a few days. I was only thinking of a way to get the fuel in. Now I have to think differently.
If the injection pump is the problem, I'll find somebody to do it because this is too complicated for me.

 

[Guy37]

Ditto what thepumpguysc stated BUT a simpler test is loosen the 2 screws on timing window on IP. Be sure gasket is loose from pump housing,start engine if it runs correctly check valve in return line is clogged as previously stated by TPG.

Thanks Jim. I am a novice, so could you point the 2 screws you're referring to?

 

[thepumpguysc]

The 2 screws are on the side cover plate on the side of the pump..
Personally I don't use that method.. because if it turns out THATS NOT the problem, 9x outa 10 you screwed up the cover gasket.
& you end up searching for 1.. ordering it, waiting.. on & on..
A couple wrenches & u have your answer, using my method.
I can do that pump for ya.. {hence the screen name}

 

[Guy37]

Yes.. u see that fitting on the top cover on the injection pump?? the 1 the return line screws onto..
Remove ALL the fittings.. ALL THE WAY DOWN to the alum. top cover.. you should have an open hole on the top cover..
NOW START IT..
IF it starts, the check ball in the fitting is clogged.. & that's not a GOOD THING..


Well, it did not start and I hope it's a GOOD THING. The glass check ball looks clean and move easily.
I put the fitting back on but the motor did not want to start.
I primed manually the transfer pump and fuel would come out on top of the fuel filter once the plastic bold was loosened. Still, it did not want to start even with some ether.
Would you have some idea as to where I should look for?

 

[thepumpguysc]

Did u try to start it w/ the check ball fitting removed?? That's what u need to do..
1 more test then.. try to remove the top cover on the injection pump..
Its just 3 screws.. The metering valve might be stuck in the shut off position..
Just google > "roosa master metering valve" to find what your looking for..

Did u make sure u have power going TO the electric shut off solenoid, located in the top cover of the inj. pump??
U should be able to HEAR it click when u turn the key on.. & FEEL it thru the t. cover....

 

[thepumpguysc]

1 more thing.. if the MV is free, put the cover back on..
Remove the inlet fitting{brass elbow} & fill that inlet piece on the inj. pump w/ fuel, all the way to the top..
Now crank the engine.. did the fuel get sucked in?? or is it still at the top?? IF its at the top, that means the internals aren't spinning & sucking it down.. Time to pull the pump..
Let me know how it goes.. U can reach me direct if u want.. click on my screen name & send me an email..

 

[Guy37]

Did u try to start it w/ the check ball fitting removed?? That's what u need to do..
1 more test then.. try to remove the top cover on the injection pump..
Its just 3 screws.. The metering valve might be stuck in the shut off position..
Just google > "roosa master metering valve" to find what your looking for..

Did u make sure u have power going TO the electric shut off solenoid, located in the top cover of the inj. pump??
U should be able to HEAR it click when u turn the key on.. & FEEL it thru the t. cover....

Yes, I tried to start it with the check valve removed.
With the cover off, I can see the metering valve, but I am not sure what to look for.
I am not sure if the electric shut off solenoid works, because when I am in the cab I can hear clicks but I cannot say if this its from this solenoid.