JD 346 Baler

   / JD 346 Baler
  • Thread Starter
#21  
The shear bolts are there for a reason. If it doesn't shear things can break that are very costly to replace. The bolts do beak every now and again just from starting and stopping the fly wheel. Or if you pick up an chunk of wood, a large stone, try to start the baler with a large slug of hay in it, if the timing gets too far off, etc.

If you search this forum for 336, and 346 you should come up with a lot of information. These balers have been discussed many times over the years here.

I know what shear bolts and slip clutches are, just didn't realize I might be needing that many. Maybe it is how people start the balers also. I have very limited knowledge on square balers - doing my homework, etc.

D.
 
   / JD 346 Baler #22  
I know what shear bolts and slip clutches are, just didn't realize I might be needing that many. Maybe it is how people start the balers also. I have very limited knowledge on square balers - doing my homework, etc.

D.

My MF-124 square baler has a sprag clutch (one-way clutch) on the hub of the slip clutch, a 5/16"x2-1/2" grade 5 shear bolt on the flywheel and a 1/4" x 1" slotted head grade 2 screw that functions as the shear bolt on the packer finger assembly. And that's it.
 
   / JD 346 Baler
  • Thread Starter
#23  
Baler looks like it has a bunch of issues. The first and worst - holes in the bottom of the bale chamber. I guess that is why they left hay in there....

D.
 
   / JD 346 Baler #24  
Ouch... That pretty much sucks! Could put one of those bale skiis liners in it - just over $500 for those.

What does the dealer have to offer as an option/solution?

AKfish
 
   / JD 346 Baler
  • Thread Starter
#25  
Ouch... That pretty much sucks! Could put one of those bale skiis liners in it - just over $500 for those.

What does the dealer have to offer as an option/solution?

AKfish

Said come look at it before we do anything to it.

I might just sell it and keep looking.

D.
 
   / JD 346 Baler #26  
Don't know about farmers in your area... But, up here a good PARTS machine is almost a requirement! :thumbsup: Helps break the wind and piles up the snow away from the door! :D

And when you can't afford to wait for a month to get another knotter, etc. there's one right over there in the trees!

AKfish
 
   / JD 346 Baler
  • Thread Starter
#27  
Don't know about farmers in your area... But, up here a good PARTS machine is almost a requirement! :thumbsup: Helps break the wind and piles up the snow away from the door! :D

And when you can't afford to wait for a month to get another knotter, etc. there's one right over there in the trees!

AKfish

With this new development, he is throwing in a parts machine.

D.
 
   / JD 346 Baler #30  
do you have any pics or a list of the problems? It might not be as bad as it sounds?
 
   / JD 346 Baler
  • Thread Starter
#31  
do you have any pics or a list of the problems? It might not be as bad as it sounds?

Rust hole in the bale chamber I bet i can shove a football thru...

D.
 
   / JD 346 Baler #32  
Rust hole in the bale chamber I bet i can shove a football thru...

D.

That sucks.
Before I bought that MF124 baler, a neighbor told me to crawl underneath it and make sure everything was OK there, including checking for rust holes. Glad I did that since the baling chamber was stuffed with hay when I bought the thing and it took me 30 minutes to clean it out when I got it to my place. No way to check that chamber from above with all that hay crammed in it.

Before chucking that 346 baler, I'd get an estimate from a weld shop. It might turn out to be a pretty simple repair job.
 
   / JD 346 Baler #33  
I was thinking the same flusher. Maybe you know a fabricator or welder that might pickup a few extra bucks. I know thats what I would do, all I am not sure what the other problems are that the shop found
 
   / JD 346 Baler
  • Thread Starter
#34  
My buddy and I can weld it up.

I am going to see if I can get my money out of it and keep looking for a more solid baler.

D.
 
   / JD 346 Baler
  • Thread Starter
#35  
Here are some pic of the rust in the chamber.

D.
 

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   / JD 346 Baler
  • Thread Starter
#36  
These pics are proof positive - never leave hay in your baler and leave it outside...

D.
 
   / JD 346 Baler
  • Thread Starter
#37  
Here are some pic from picking up the parts baler today.

If you have never hauled one of these balers before - there is a reason why they are shipped on their end.

Wheels and tires are better and the needles look brand new - still has the JD parts tag on them. I think somebody was trying to get this baler up and running.

I am hoping to make 1 good baler out of two with minimal extra expense. It should be a learning experience for sure.

Enjoy,
D.
 

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   / JD 346 Baler
  • Thread Starter
#38  
Only 2 blown tires - crappy tires don't last long in the Texas summer heat. They were the originals on the trailer - 7 years old. Yes, we had spares.

D.
 

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   / JD 346 Baler #39  
Well... that looked like quite an adventure!! I can't remember when I had to change a tire in 90-100 degree temps! (It's a memory that I've tried hard to forget...)

There's a bit of a "dip" right after the needles... Would be a real "PUSH" for that next bale! :mur:

Good news that the seller has tried to make things right and from the sound of things the other 346 might just be a more solid machine in the end.

My deck-over goose neck was right on 8.5' and the baler sat just off the rub rail! A "custom fit" and only a matter of pushin' on the tongue (or pullin') and was loaded/unloaded.

Interested to hear the rest of the details on the "parts machine vs the original machine" and which one will make it to the field!

AKfish
 
   / JD 346 Baler
  • Thread Starter
#40  
Well... that looked like quite an adventure!! I can't remember when I had to change a tire in 90-100 degree temps! (It's a memory that I've tried hard to forget...)

There's a bit of a "dip" right after the needles... Would be a real "PUSH" for that next bale! :mur:

Good news that the seller has tried to make things right and from the sound of things the other 346 might just be a more solid machine in the end.

My deck-over goose neck was right on 8.5' and the baler sat just off the rub rail! A "custom fit" and only a matter of pushin' on the tongue (or pullin') and was loaded/unloaded.

Interested to hear the rest of the details on the "parts machine vs the original machine" and which one will make it to the field!

AKfish

Believe me - it was way over 100 when we were changing that tire. Somewhere between Rusk and ********* Texas.

The parts baler is rusted out int he sheet metal a lot more. The original baler is much closer to baling hay. The knotters have been taken apart on the parts baler and some parts are missing. The bale chamber has some holes on the parts baler, but enough of it is there that we can use it as a pattern for the steel we need to lay in the other one.

I have been looking at how to pull the plunger, etc. I might just turn this into a complete learning lesson besides getting hosed in the first place. Pull the plunger - needs bearings. Check the rails, etc. Clutch needs some parts. Weld up the bale chamber. Pick up needs about 1/2 mile of twine cut out of it. Needs some pick up teeth and a couple other things in there. I think the auger setup it fine. Flywheel bushing is not bad. Swap out grade 8 bolt for a shear bolt. Swap the wheel/tires - looks much better on the parts baler. I should be able to make one out of 2 - but I will be buying new parts.

Also - the 4520 works good for loading that baler. hydro trans is precise. It is not too wide to make it harder to maneuver up the ramp and dove tail, etc. A tad wider trailer would be nice, but it is amazing what you can do with a handful of 2x4 cut offs and a cedar 4x4 block. We used the 2x4s on the way home - drove up on them with the inner wheel to get the outer wheel off without having to break out a jack. :)

D.
 

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