JD 410 Loader Bucket Cylinder

[wetherby]

Does anyone know how to remove the nut to draw out the piston? It just spins but won't back out. Any tricks would be appreciated...

 

[kennyd]

See if this thread helps:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/122281-jd-hydraulic-cylinder-rebuild-help.html

And this video, larger tractor but it's basically the same:

Rebuilding a John Deer hydraulic cylinder - YouTube

 

[wetherby]

This doesn't look like the photo that I tried to attach....:duh:The end "nut" spins the "guide" that it threads to and I don't see any way to hold that guide from turning. Maybe if I pull the piston and rod all the way out? The nut does not thread into the cylinder's body.

 

[Dave M7040]

I don't think you understand how the cylinder is built. There are no snap rings from what I can see.

The ring or cylinder head with the notches around its circumference needs to be unscrewed from the cylinder body.
Then you pull the end cap and internal pieces out of the cylinder

There are special wrenches made to engage the multiple slots.

Few have the special tool and resort to a good pipe wrench. It will chew up the ring a bit. The real need is to wrap electrical tape around the chrome rod in the area where you are using the pipe wrench so you don't nick the chrome.

Expect the end to be very hard to unscrew

Dave M7040

 

[wetherby]

Thanks for the insights but the exploded parts diagram does show a snap ring inside. The nut or "cylinder head" as you call it does spin but is not backing out. It definitely does not thread into the cylinder body... Still trying!

 

[Stimw]

In the video he knocked the inner piece in to remove the snap ring.
While yours doesn't show a snap ring, knocking that piece in might free up the outer piece. Just a wild guess.

 

[Dave M7040]

Thanks for the insights but the exploded parts diagram does show a snap ring inside. The nut or "cylinder head" as you call it does spin but is not backing out. It definitely does not thread into the cylinder body... Still trying!

plse post the exploded parts diagram for your tractor.
On the John Deere web site there are several models of 410.

None of the cylinders I looked at had snap rings.
I might be wrong once you post the one for your tractor.

Dave M7040

 

[kennyd]

The link and video I posted was for this "410 loader" LOL.




This is why pictures and accurate descriptions are essential

 

[Dave M7040]

The link and video I posted was for this "410 loader" LOL.

View attachment 528872


This is why pictures and accurate descriptions are essential

I will leave you guys to it. Sorry for bringing any confusion to the table.

I now realize from the beginning I misunderstood and thought the guy with the problem had a model 410 John Deere tractor with a FEL
Now you are saying it is only the loader with the model designation "410."

John Deere seems to use "410" rather liberally as there is a 410 C 410 D....

Dave M7040

 

[hosspuller]

If the "Nut" spins the "guide" =gland. Place the cylinder in a vise, clamping just past the nut. That will hold the gland, allowing you to unscrew the nut. After taking the nut off, You drive the gland into the cylinder. There is a round wire circle in a groove inside the cylinder barrel. You pry that out. The seal kit will have a plastic ring (usually orange colored) with a teardrop shaped cross section. This is a tool to remove the gland and piston by filling the groove. Otherwise the seals will catch on the groove edges.