JD 4100 Wouldn't Start at -11 F
- Thread starter keeney
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roccon31
Bronze Member
the click you guys are hearing is the relay for the fuel solenoid. if it doesnt click off, you will burn fusible links, the fuel solenoid and the fuel computer. trust me. it all cost me over 700 dollars to replace it!
when you turn on the key, a "pull on" circuit energizes the fuel solenoid pulling it away from the injector pump. then a "hold" circuit energizes to hold the solenoid in place, allowing fuel to flow to the pump. when you turn the key off, the "hold" is deenergized shutting off the fuel. the 3 second delay is the timer in the computer. it is programmed to pull for 3 seconds. with no warning, mine was pulling for a few minutes causing it to burn the entire system up.
the current draw you are seeing in the dash is the "pull" circuit being energized. it draws roughly 25 amps until the "hold" circuit takes over.
all this so that they can wire in all of those wonderful safety features that shutoff the tractor. you know, the ones we all curse at when we lean off the seat to look at something and the tractor shuts off??? thank you to all the lawyers that created that mess!!
im not sure how the 4100 glow system works, i believe it has glow plugs. my 4115 does not. it has a manifold heater that is only energized while the key is in the "crank" position.
when you turn on the key, a "pull on" circuit energizes the fuel solenoid pulling it away from the injector pump. then a "hold" circuit energizes to hold the solenoid in place, allowing fuel to flow to the pump. when you turn the key off, the "hold" is deenergized shutting off the fuel. the 3 second delay is the timer in the computer. it is programmed to pull for 3 seconds. with no warning, mine was pulling for a few minutes causing it to burn the entire system up.
the current draw you are seeing in the dash is the "pull" circuit being energized. it draws roughly 25 amps until the "hold" circuit takes over.
all this so that they can wire in all of those wonderful safety features that shutoff the tractor. you know, the ones we all curse at when we lean off the seat to look at something and the tractor shuts off??? thank you to all the lawyers that created that mess!!
im not sure how the 4100 glow system works, i believe it has glow plugs. my 4115 does not. it has a manifold heater that is only energized while the key is in the "crank" position.
acs55812
Silver Member
4100 glow plugs are only on when in the crank position, put the tractor in gear--turn the key as if to start the tractor---hold there for (you determine the time)------release key, put in neutral, start tractor.
Make sense?
Make sense?
roccon31
Bronze Member
absolutely.
this tells me that they are probably using the same ignition setup on the entire series, the only difference being that mine has a manifold heater and the others have plugs.
it makes sense to preheat the plugs for a few seconds when its really cold out. you wouldnt want to do it for more than 8-10 seconds though, or youll probably burn the tips off of the plugs rendering them useless. the 4115 manifold heater wouldnt do a darn bit of good to preheat, since its job is to heat the air coming into the engine, not the entire combustion chamber like a plugged motor.
keeney- check your glow plugs when you pull it out of the snowbank, i bet you have one or more out.
this tells me that they are probably using the same ignition setup on the entire series, the only difference being that mine has a manifold heater and the others have plugs.
it makes sense to preheat the plugs for a few seconds when its really cold out. you wouldnt want to do it for more than 8-10 seconds though, or youll probably burn the tips off of the plugs rendering them useless. the 4115 manifold heater wouldnt do a darn bit of good to preheat, since its job is to heat the air coming into the engine, not the entire combustion chamber like a plugged motor.
keeney- check your glow plugs when you pull it out of the snowbank, i bet you have one or more out.
In case it wasn't clear, once I got the machine inside the nice toasty 60 degree garage for maybe 60 to 90 minutes, it started with only a few seconds of cranking. It has been used several times since my original post without any problems.
I would still like to understand exactly how it works, however so that next time I have a problem, I know better what to do.
I am also thinking that a block heater kit would be a good thing to add as it can probably cure many cold weather starting problems as long as I have enough extension cord to reach the machine.
- Rick
I would still like to understand exactly how it works, however so that next time I have a problem, I know better what to do.
I am also thinking that a block heater kit would be a good thing to add as it can probably cure many cold weather starting problems as long as I have enough extension cord to reach the machine.
- Rick
pat32rf
Veteran Member
Just checked my tech manual for 4200,4300 and 4400. They all have manifold heaters instead of glow plugs. The heaters are contolled by the key switch only. You energize the heater for a few seconds before you hit "start" to enable the heater to come up to a useable temp. At this point it should dump that warm air into the cylinders when you hit the starter. (has never worked for me)
The fuel solenoid is controlled by a thermister that only allows the pull in circuit to receive voltage for a few seconds.
If the solenoid has an internal oil leak, when it is cold sometimes it cannot pull in before the thermister shuts off this part of the circuit. (You normally notice this on the first startup of the day)
I find that if its going below minus 20C, I plug in. If its warmer than that, she starts within 3seconds with no preheat. If its colder and its plugged in it takes the same 3 seconds of crank time. If its colder and not plugged in forget it.......(minus 30C=minus 30F)
The fuel solenoid is controlled by a thermister that only allows the pull in circuit to receive voltage for a few seconds.
If the solenoid has an internal oil leak, when it is cold sometimes it cannot pull in before the thermister shuts off this part of the circuit. (You normally notice this on the first startup of the day)
I find that if its going below minus 20C, I plug in. If its warmer than that, she starts within 3seconds with no preheat. If its colder and its plugged in it takes the same 3 seconds of crank time. If its colder and not plugged in forget it.......(minus 30C=minus 30F)
blueriver
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