JD 4300 tie rod

[arkvet]

also, would the damage that a bent rod would likely do to the cylinder be something that the rebuild kit would even fix anyway?

 

[dfkrug]

Care to elaborate on the JD cylinder repair being problematic?

I have had both major types of 4300 PS systems, one with a double-ended cyl, and one like yours. The
first one had bolted-on glands, as I recall, but the 2nd, I do not recall. I thought it had a welded-on gland, like
the 955 does. If not, try to rebuild it. If so, replace it.

The replacement cyl above was from SurpCnter and had ORB ports, the most common kind I buy. Now
and then I get one with NPT, but never any ORFS. We used adapters.

 

[George2615]

OK. Got the tie rod repaired (welded larger sch 80 pipe over existing straight ends. And fixed the bend in the cylinde. Rod with a friends 20 ton air press. Worked great.

But now I still have an issue. The wheel is still tough to turn if turned quickly. If turned slowly it's with ease. Quick wheek turning is like and old tractor with no power steering (or slightly worse) I'll get my manual and see what I can come up with but would appreciate and direction with this problem too.

Thanks.

Glad you got the rod repaired and cylinder straightened. If the power steering works OK turning it slowly but not fast you may still have some air in the lines. Try cycling the wheel from lock to lock a few times. It would be easier if you jack the front end off the ground.

 

[arkvet]

I have had both major types of 4300 PS systems, one with a double-ended cyl, and one like yours. The
first one had bolted-on glands, as I recall, but the 2nd, I do not recall. I thought it had a welded-on gland, like
the 955 does. If not, try to rebuild it. If so, replace it.

The replacement cyl above was from SurpCnter and had ORB ports, the most common kind I buy. Now
and then I get one with NPT, but never any ORFS. We used adapters.

thank you sir. Your experience on the subject is incredibly helpful!

Glad you got the rod repaired and cylinder straightened. If the power steering works OK turning it slowly but not fast you may still have some air in the lines. Try cycling the wheel from lock to lock a few times. It would be easier if you jack the front end off the ground.

I've put about 2 hours on the tractor since straightening the cylinder rod. Lot stop to stop turning while doing loader work. It's drivable but my arms are pretty sore and the work was much slower with the slow hard turning. If there were air in the lines it would be gone by now.

I'd just buy a new cylinder if it weren't $450 at JD. A $100 cylinder for $450... Yeah that's irritating. Wonder what it would cost to build a tractor by buying each individual part? $100,000+ ? Probably much more

 

[arkvet]

Checked the cylinder and it's all welded. I'll call jd tomorrow and tell them I don't need the rebuild kit.

I'll take the cylinder measurements tomorrow and order a surplus center cylinder to fab. Compared to the bucket cylinder fab job I did this will be a walk in the park. Any reason I should buy new the rod ends rather than cut these off the bad cylinder and reuse? The tie rod ends are relatively cheap so I don't care either way.

 

[dfkrug]

Any reason I should buy new the rod ends rather than cut these off the bad cylinder
and reuse? The tie rod ends are relatively cheap so I don't care either way.

Cheap? Really? The tie rod ends for the earlier 4300 PS cylinder were hideously expensive. I went with a
tie rod end from a large truck, drilled and tapped (photo). If yours are still good, cut and weld.

The one-cylinder design you have is much simpler....I thought the cyl was welded (ugh). My 2001 was OK. The
dbl-ended cyl design requires ball pivots at both ends, before the tie rods. That's prob why JD switched.

 

[arkvet]

Cheap? Really? The tie rod ends for the earlier 4300 PS cylinder were hideously expensive. I went with a
tie rod end from a large truck, drilled and tapped (photo). If yours are still good, cut and weld.

The one-cylinder design you have is much simpler....I thought the cyl was welded (ugh). My 2001 was OK. The
dbl-ended cyl design requires ball pivots at both ends, before the tie rods. That's prob why JD switched.

So sorry for the confusion... When I said cheap I was 100% referring to aftermarket tie rod ends like you used. I didn't even look to see what JD charged for the ends. The ends on mine are fine. I'll re-use what I already have then. Keeps it simple.