JD 445 FD620D rebuild

[goatman64]

In the midst of a 445 rebuild for a neighbor and hoping someone has mapped the JD part #s back to Kawasaki part #s.

Oil gear failed and the owner continued to run the machine ... we all know what happens next.. Rod failed .. nearly punched thru the block on both sides.

I have a good condition block and crank but I'm struggling to get the correct Kawasaki part #s for the pistons, rings and rods.

This tractor is a 1997 445 which should map to a FD620D-AS01 .. if I did my homework correctly.

piston - 13001-2136
rod - 13251-6022
rings - 13008-6025

Does the rod come with the bolts?
Assuming the piston does not come with the wrist pin??



Thanks

 

[Richard001]

OK, why not just go with Kawasaki parts?

Richard

 

[Tennsawdust]

In the midst of a 445 rebuild for a neighbor and hoping someone has mapped the JD part #s back to Kawasaki part #s.

Oil gear failed and the owner continued to run the machine ... we all know what happens next.. Rod failed .. nearly punched thru the block on both sides.

I have a good condition block and crank but I'm struggling to get the correct Kawasaki part #s for the pistons, rings and rods.

This tractor is a 1997 445 which should map to a FD620D-AS01 .. if I did my homework correctly.

piston - 13001-2136
rod - 13251-6022
rings - 13008-6025

Does the rod come with the bolts?
Assuming the piston does not come with the wrist pin??

View attachment 585822

Thanks

Those appear to be Kawasaki part numbers, although the service part may carry a different number. The rod should come with the bolts. The piston and pin are generally sold separately.

Piston 131-2186 | RepairClinic.com

 

[RandyT]

JD tends to do exclusive engines with several manufacturers, and those part diagrams are not even available to the normal Kawasaki or other engine manufacturer. Most of the parts cross over to an engine with similar parts, but the exact spec number is not available to the Kawasaki dealer.

 

[goatman64]

To answer Richard's question .. that precisely the plan .. use the original OEM Kawasaki part #s. A friend told me about scrubbercity.com. All parts for the FD620D engine with awesome prices. I ordered the needed parts and will post again as this project proceeds. Thanks

 

[beenthere]

Contemplating tearing down my FD620D AS01 Kawasaki (s/n 419** so is '96) this winter, enough to at least replace the plastic cam gear.. poking around to find service manual and video's that may be helpful. Concerned about any special tools, helpful suggestions, and comments to aid this endeavor. Would appreciate any advice. tks

 

[tomplum]

Mymowerparts.com should have the service manual for you. Just be wise enough to categorize your fasteners etc. and take pics on items that have the potential to be installed in multiple fashions.

 

[Zebrafive]

Contemplating tearing down my FD620D AS01 Kawasaki (s/n 419** so is '96) this winter, enough to at least replace the plastic cam gear.. poking around to find service manual and video's that may be helpful. Concerned about any special tools, helpful suggestions, and comments to aid this endeavor. Would appreciate any advice. tks

Consider a new water pump. Check the other plastic gears. No need to remove heads if not replacing rings (saves buying 2 head gaskets). Replace the crank seal while you have it this far apart.

 

[beenthere]

Have found a couple online service manuals, but the pics are very dark and not legible. Will keep looking for one that shows those illustrations (pics) more clearly.
Will plan to do a new water pump, and other plastic gears.
This engine starts and runs good, no oil consumption, and no reason other than hours to go after the plastic cam gear (other than I need a project for winter and am interested in trying this myself). So will not plan to remove the heads.
Thanks for the suggestions.

 

[Richard001]

I have a PDF of the service manual for the 445 with the FD620D engine, but it's huge, 67mb.

I got it off the internet, you should be able to find it.

Update - if you just want the Kawasaki engine manual, go here:

"K&T Parts House Lawn Mower Parts and Chain Saw & Trimmer Parts"

Then scroll down to the engine PDF that you want.

Richard

 

[beenthere]

Thanks Richard..
I found that K&T Parts House too, and printed chapter 6 pages 1-14 (or pages 93 - 106) and find the illustrations (figures) are too dark from photocopying to see any details.

If your service manual pages show clear illustrations, I can PM an email if you would be so kind to send just the Camshaft/Crankshaft section. If the same as K&T, then let's don't bother.

I may be able to decipher enough when into the engine from the dark pics to get by, but if would like to strive for better pics.

Thanks

Member buckshot721 sent me the eBay seller link who has a kit for the cam gear change-out. Looks like $280 including shipping, but not the water pump. JD parts and buckshot said it worked well for him.

 

[Zebrafive]

I replaced the cam gear in a JD 285 in 2016. It was the liquid cooled Kawasaki engine. Gear broke when trying to start.
I used the John Deere CTM39 (Component Technical Manual).
Drawings are great, pictures just OK, some worse than others.

I found a mistake in the section for the water pump. They labeled the mounting screws A B & C. They say to torque all to 70 lb - in, except B 186 lb - in. It is C NOT B that should be 186 lb - in. It's easy to see one screw is a larger diameter and takes more torque. That screw is C. Make sure you mark each screw's location a lot of different sizes.


Mine had 1100 hours and the cam gear failed, lost 7 teeth. I replaced the water pump and bottom crank seal, but not governor or oil pump gears (plastic, but looked great).


I also replaced the tappets/cam followers. Later I found new valve springs were recommended. I did not replace mine.


It ran fine for over a year, then was stolen in 2017

 

[L120]

Like you, I found that ignoring JD #'s and going straight to the MFG'r make model of the engine. If you have the time & patience to put a new rod in, that's admirable. If the engine is torn down this far maybe consider a shortblock. There are many small engines suppliers online.

Home - Small Engine Warehouse
Small Engine Suppliers - Your online source for Replacement Small Engines, Tools & Parts
Lawn Mower Parts | Small Engine Parts - Jacks Small Engines
Small Engines - small engine - Welcome to Small Engine Distributors, The Dealer's First Call Source for Lawn & Garden Supplies. Contact us at smengdis@swbell.net or info@smallenginedistributors.net - Our wholesale website is http://www.sedkc.com & ht

Nothing says you need to use a KAW or even the same HP as the old engine. Example: I replaced a 20HP B&S engine with a 27 HP B&S Commercial engine that has an oil cooler and many more rugged features. The only thing you need to verify is the shaft size and overall size if the engine to fit in the engine compartment. The bolt hole even aligned for my new engine.

 

[beenthere]

Started the tear down to get the 425 FD620D engine ready to pull.

 

[Gittyup]

I put a new Cam, water pump, oil pump, governor gear, push rods, and valve springs in my 425 a number of years ago. It was more work getting the engine out/in than actually doing the rebuild. I had the service manual, but really the JD dealer was the biggest help. They knew exactly what parts I needed and put the list together and I purchased directly from them. I suspect that is the best avenue for you too. Most dealers have done many of these cam jobs. I'm sure they can source the piston parts, block, and whatever you want. I think you can also buy this engine new from time to time on ebay.

 

[serefli1]

very interesting

 

[beenthere]

Have been poking along with this 425 engine FD620D, and today pulled the crankcase cover off.
Plan now is to just replace the plastic gear camshaft, the water pump, and the governor..

At an impasse now with trying to get the two Phillips screws out holding that oil screen in place in the bottom of the crankcase. For sure don't want to break one or both off and have to deal with that..

Before I pull out the camshaft, the plan is to hoist the engine upside down so the push rods and tappets stay in place. Hope that works as simple as implied. Any thoughts otherwise would be appreciated.

Have the engine sitting on my tool cabinet and found a plastic tray that just fits on top to allow cleaning the engine off before removal of parts. So far, the words of wisdom that the hardest part is removing the engine from the tractor holds true.

 

[Richard001]

Have been poking along with this 425 engine FD620D, and today pulled the crankcase cover off.
Plan now is to just replace the plastic gear camshaft, the water pump, and the governor..

In the photo you posted, that sure doesn't look like a plastic cam gear.

Before I pull out the camshaft, the plan is to hoist the engine upside down so the push rods and tappets stay in place. Hope that works as simple as implied. Any thoughts otherwise would be appreciated.

I will have to assume that you have removed the rocker arms to take any pressure of of the springs. Then your idea should work.

Richard

 

[beenthere]

Richard
I owe you big time... I just went out to the engine.. and stuck a magnet to that gear.. WHOA WHOA WHOA.. it is steel.

I've no history on this tractor prior to the 600 hours it had on it when I bought it. Given the serial number dating it to the plastic cams, and the low hours.. just presumed it still had plastic. Had I suspected plastic or steel when I took the water pump off, I had the opportunity then to put the magnet to the teeth before removing the crankcase cover but it never crossed my mind.

Now, the plan to button this thing up and move forward has taken a whole new direction... many thanks to you Richard.

Will keep you all informed but without the process of changing out the camshaft.. and I was kinda looking forward to doing it too.

bt

 

[Zebrafive]

For the two screws; the type of impact driver you hit with a hammer would be my choice of tools. Be sure to install a new crank seal.