JD 4600 4WD Leaking Front Axle

DanMc77 · Jan 27, 2021

I am seeing a puddle under the 4WD axle steering pivots with my 4600 tractor. Anybody here have any experience with changing the seals in there? What is involved with this? Is it best to just pull the axle and have a shop do this?

beenthere · Jan 27, 2021

Pic of the "puddle" would help..
Found on my 4300 that loosening the fill/dipstick cap to allow expansion of the axle oil when it gets warmed up will relieve the bleeding out the seals.

But have not done a seal changeout, but understand from other on TBN that it is a DIY-possible task.

Others will chime in that know more, and pic or two will encourage that response.

DanMc77 · Jan 27, 2021

There isn't a vent somewhere in the axle? I checked the fluid in the axle last summer and it was off the dip stick. I put in quite a bit of lube, so I fear that it may have been fairly (or completely) empty. Anyway, I had it parked outside for the summer and never noticed any leaking oil. Now that I have it in the garage for the winter, the little oil stains on the concrete floor become obvious. The oil is dripping from the steering pivots, mostly on the right side, and is enough of a leak to create a puddle. When I check the oil, nothing shows on the dip stick, so I need to get this fixed before I wreck the axle. I should really fill it and then drain to see if I get any metal filings out of it, but that will happen anyway when it's opened up to replace the seals.

beenthere · Jan 27, 2021

Have you read the "similar threads" suggestions that pop up at the bottom of these pages? May be some good history of these axles there to learn more.

There isn't a vent somewhere in the axle?

Do not think so..

Does sound like your seals are shot.. but if you have it inside, go for changing them out.
Do you have the service tech manual to follow?

DanMc77 · Jan 27, 2021

I found the service manual buried on my hard drive. Here's the front hub exploded diagram. Doesn't look like it would be too bad. Seems like the whole hub assembly should be easily removed by taking off the 4 bolts and then the hub yoke can be brought in and worked with on the bench. If anybody here has done this, please share your experience.

I called the JD dealer to see what they would charge for this work. Prepare for adventure.

waycoolmarine · Jan 27, 2021

there is a bunch of threads on this subject its easy your on the right track with removing the 4 bolts they are tight with lock tight but a breaker bar gets then off , hardest part is not tearing boots on tie rod end. there is a spanner nut in there bend the tabs off and it comes out with a punch and hammer if you dont have the socket , its not real tight . your 1st time about 3 hours when you have done a couple about 1 1/2 hours. seal and bottom plug , i usually replace the allen screws for drain holes, while im there and put 80/90 weight in instead of hygaurd

DanMc77 · Jan 28, 2021

When I added the lube last summer, I went with the "real deal" and got the hygaurd. I was surprised at the low viscosity of this stuff versus the normal heavy weight 80/90 gear lube. Maybe if I put in the heavier gear lube, my leak may drop off substantially. It's comforting to know that its a 3 hour job for a first-timer. Might as well change all 3 seals in there while it's apart.

How much do you want to bet that the dealer service dept charges 3 hours of time per side??? I should get a call back from them today with their estimate.

rademamj1 · Jan 31, 2021

I remember a thread on this last summer from a JD owner. He brought his tractor into his local dealer and then waited over 6 weeks for a special JD tool, to arrive at the dealer required to pull the axle seals. Turns out the same seal puller tool was at NAPA all along for about $12.00. It looked very much like a small pry bar with a hooks on both ends. Once the tool arrived at the dealer, it was all done in less than a day.

pmsmechanic · Jan 31, 2021

I just finished doing this on a 4410. 3 hours first time sounds reasonable. I looked the whole situation over and I choose not to remove the knuckle. I laid a piece of carpet down on the floor of my shop and I did the whole job on the tractor.

To remove the steering parts isn't hard. Just loosen the nuts enough to protect the treads and then push up with a small hydraulic jack. Several sharp raps on the casting by the ball joints and they were apart. Be careful removing part # 21 and you can reuse it. It gets glued back in with a special glue so make sure you have some of that on hand. I did not use a special tool to install the seal. Just careful tapping with a hammer.

I needed a special socket to remove the spindle nut but could get it off with a punch. After it was off I made a socket. I don't see that nut on your parts diagram so there must be some differences between the front ends. I would definatly have a service manual on hand as it just makes the job that much easier.

Have fun!

I should also mention that the new seals came in Dana/Spicer boxes with John Deere part numbers stickered over the Dana part numbers. They also weren't cheap. $230 CAD or so both seals so if you can find the Dana/Spicer part #'s and order from Spicer you might be able to save a few $.

beenthere · Jan 31, 2021

pms
Could you tell which of the 3 (?) seals was leaking?
Am wondering if the #29 seal is leaking if just the #28 part can be removed and replace just the single seal. Admit that probably would not be that easy, and smart to replace all seals.
So far, not a leak problem.. but after 22 years, suspect it will be "one of these days".

Had a good 6-7 inches of snow to remove this morning.. Windy but 29 deg F was not too bad. Will be winging it back tomorrow tho.