pmsmechanic
Elite Member
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2013
- Messages
- 4,212
- Location
- Southern Alberta, Canada
- Tractor
- 4410 and F-935 John Deere, MF 245
On my tractor #29 was leaking and also #19/#5. On my tractor those two pieces came as a set. #5 is a steel wear ring.
At first they would only leak as the differential warmed up. Towards the end they were both leaking constantly. The rim/tire was coated in oil.
I don't know of a third seal.
#28 is easy to remove if just the wheel seal is leaking. And really the rest isn't that hard to remove either if the spindle seal is also leaking. It just takes time.
Also I spent some time brousing John Deere's parts web site. Make sure you use the right parts diagram. There are three different ones for the front drive. #14 is a heavy duty snap ring. You'll need a heavy duty set of snap ring plyers to remove it. #11 is the nut that I was able to remove with just a punch and later built the socket. My nut was held from turning with a lock washer with tabs on it that got bent into the slots in the nut
I was able to make the socket by using a 4" piece of exhaust tubing and pushed the nut into it with my hydraulic press. I then carefully sawed the pipe to fit into the slots in the nut, tapped the cut pieces into the slots and again carefully welded the cuts up. I then welded an old socket onto the other end and I had enough of a socket to handle the 14(?) ft lbs of torque called for.
At first they would only leak as the differential warmed up. Towards the end they were both leaking constantly. The rim/tire was coated in oil.
I don't know of a third seal.
#28 is easy to remove if just the wheel seal is leaking. And really the rest isn't that hard to remove either if the spindle seal is also leaking. It just takes time.
Also I spent some time brousing John Deere's parts web site. Make sure you use the right parts diagram. There are three different ones for the front drive. #14 is a heavy duty snap ring. You'll need a heavy duty set of snap ring plyers to remove it. #11 is the nut that I was able to remove with just a punch and later built the socket. My nut was held from turning with a lock washer with tabs on it that got bent into the slots in the nut
I was able to make the socket by using a 4" piece of exhaust tubing and pushed the nut into it with my hydraulic press. I then carefully sawed the pipe to fit into the slots in the nut, tapped the cut pieces into the slots and again carefully welded the cuts up. I then welded an old socket onto the other end and I had enough of a socket to handle the 14(?) ft lbs of torque called for.
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