JD 6140d clutch issues?

[chamber4834]

My dad just bought a 2014 6140d with cab and a loader from a dealer. It has about 1820 hours. Having some issues possibly with the transmission, clutch or brakes. It has the 12/12 power reverser. This may be a little hard to explain especially without a video. When I push the clutch all the way down and start to release it to take off, when I only let off on it a few inches, the back wheels will jerk real bad but only when going forward and only when trying to take off from a complete stop. This doesn't happen once you are moving and shift on the fly even if I push the clutch all the way down, well at least don't notice it. This does not happen when going in reverse either. One thing I noticed is if I don't push the clutch all the way down, let's say a few inches from all the way down, this will not happen. Something else that happened is when I clutched it and came to a stop after hitting just the left brake pedal, felt a jerk, this got me thinking maybe it has to do with the brakes. This only happened once. It almost feels like the brakes are sticking but seems to roll easy. One thing I thought of and this is my bad. Shortly after we got it, we took it to the field to ted some hay mainly just to try it out. Well it was in 4wd and I did not realize it until after I got back home, the 4wd light on the dash was not coming on, it would only come on momentary when messing with the 4wd lever. I did drive down the road down and back while in 4wd but only a short ways. To get it out of 4wd, took a little effort like it was under pressure. But maybe that is normal with it being mechanical, idk. It has the mechanical 4wd lever on left side by the seat. We are going to call the dealer but haven't had a chance yet. Was playing beat the rain and we are way behind because it has been so wet, got another wet spell coming in. Anyone ever had something like this happen and what was the cause? Have not really checked to see if this happens when only using the power reverser and not clutching it, will be doing that tomorrow.

 

[Mike1955]

Sorry to speculate but you might use it a long time like that. It’s just not a perfect world. Good luck sir

 

[Harry in Ky]

A few different possibilities come to mind on the "4WD shift in and out" thing, but that's probably a normal occurrence. The mechanical shift units have a few peculiarities no matter what brand.

The clutch pedal problem may well be nothing more than a calibration issue. Power shuttle tractors often need a little "tune up" in that regard. Then again. one or more of the clutch pedal switches could also be involved. The best place to start is with the dealer who sold it. Ask them about the calibration process and see if they might do that for you or at least explain how you can do it yourself. It's usually not that hard. If that doesn't help, then you need to dig a little deeper. If they opt to do it for you, then try to arrange to watch it being done. Knowing how will be in your favor, as it will probably need to be done again some day.

 

[Mike1955]

A few different possibilities come to mind on the "4WD shift in and out" thing, but that's probably a normal occurrence. The mechanical shift units have a few peculiarities no matter what brand.

The clutch pedal problem may well be nothing more than a calibration issue. Power shuttle tractors often need a little "tune up" in that regard. Then again. one or more of the clutch pedal switches could also be involved. The best place to start is with the dealer who sold it. Ask them about the calibration process and see if they might do that for you or at least explain how you can do it yourself. It's usually not that hard. If that doesn't help, then you need to dig a little deeper. If they opt to do it for you, then try to arrange to watch it being done. Knowing how will be in your favor, as it will probably need to be done again some day.

I hope I’m wrong but dealer is the least likely place for anything but ********

 

[Harry in Ky]

Well I, for one, think you are wrong. The dealer needs to be given the first shot at solving the problem. It's a newly purchased machine, and regardless of what warranty the sales department provides, they need to be given the opportunity to stand behind their sale. After that it's a different story. I think the clutch calibration is the starting point, but I certainly don't have the information on the procedure. If you have anything helpful to offer then please speak up.

 

[Mike1955]

Well I, for one, think you are wrong. The dealer needs to be given the first shot at solving the problem. It's a newly purchased machine, and regardless of what warranty the sales department provides, they need to be given the opportunity to stand behind their sale. After that it's a different story. I think the clutch calibration is the starting point, but I certainly don't have the information on the procedure. If you have anything helpful to offer then please speak up.

Sir I have given you my best. Hope it helps

 

[chamber4834]

A few different possibilities come to mind on the "4WD shift in and out" thing, but that's probably a normal occurrence. The mechanical shift units have a few peculiarities no matter what brand.

The clutch pedal problem may well be nothing more than a calibration issue. Power shuttle tractors often need a little "tune up" in that regard. Then again. one or more of the clutch pedal switches could also be involved. The best place to start is with the dealer who sold it. Ask them about the calibration process and see if they might do that for you or at least explain how you can do it yourself. It's usually not that hard. If that doesn't help, then you need to dig a little deeper. If they opt to do it for you, then try to arrange to watch it being done. Knowing how will be in your favor, as it will probably need to be done again some day.

If there is a clutch calibration, wouldn't it be in the manual? There is nothing at all in the manual about clutch calibration. We are going to talk to the dealer tomorrow.

Ty both for help

 

[Harry in Ky]

Not all tractor makers put that information in the operator manuals. That's why checking with the dealer is first step. It may be in a service manual but you no doubt don't have that.

 

[rScotty]

That's a nice tractor.
I would consult the dealer - actually I would consult the shop manager. And the question I would ask would be if he has see or heard of anything like that himself, or have there been any service bulletins that talk about those type of issues. Both of those have yes/no answers.

If he hasn't seen or heard of such and wants to offer opinions, that's fine. But take those opinions with more than a "grain of salt". Don't automatically believe any speculation. It's reasonable to ask, "how would I test that?" Any good mechanic will tell you that.

Now, having disqualified myself, I'll give it a shot.
Does the 6140 have wet clutch and/or wet brakes? If so, then grabbing could be as simple as the wrong brand trans/hydraulic fluid having the wrong friction modifiers ....or that the fluid is old and the additives "used up". Or cheap trans/hydraulic fluid. Our JD is very picky about trans/hydraulic fluid. I can hear and feel the difference when using JD's HyGard lo vis.

As for the 4wd lever, that's easy. Yours was hard to shift out of 4wd because the part time 4wd that all mediumn and smallern tractors use is only to be used when one front tire can slip. In high traction situations the tire can't slip and that causes the transmission shafts to "wind up" a tiny fraction. Think of the transmissions as big springs. You have to overcome that torsional stress to easily move the MFWD lever.
IF you had stopped and used the loader to lift the front end off the ground, you wouldn have felt that windup "unwind" and then the lever would move easily.

Yes, what you hear is true. It is possible to blow up a MFWD tractor transmission or front end driving it in 4wd on pavement -or any time it can't get rid of it's own 4wd windup. Especially with a load in the bucket. But what usually happens is no real damage, just more wear and slop. Sounds like yours is Ok. They are pretty tough that way.
It's also true that lots of MFWD use if done long enough and you get unlucky... tends to first knock out some front driveshaft U joints and connectors before doing internal damage. Bottom line, is only use MFWD when you absolutely have to. Even deep snow or mud can cause windup,. Just use your head. If in doubt, lift the front with the loader.

I ended up bolting a gate latch to our MFWD lever on one tractor because I kept engaging it accidently and getting that windup.

rScotty

 

[chamber4834]

He talked to the shop guy at the dealer and said one thing that might help is replace one of the clutch sensors. Also said that can be normal with that style transmission. Got a video of what it is doing but really don't show it that well. The wheels actually spin for split second causing it to jerk.

Something else happened that doesn't make any sense at all, that seems to happen a lot around here. The transmission information indicator light came on the dash and couldn't move it at all. I got to checking out the fuses and found something interesting. Previous owner installed some extra led lights, guessing he done himself and not a dealer. He had it plugged into an extra spot in the fuse box. If I unplug that fuse for the extra lights, the transmission light goes away instantly and can use it. Soon as I plug that back in, transmission light comes back on. From what I can tell, that wiring only has to do with lights and nothing else. Since the extra lights caused the transmission light to come on, why would it not do that from day one? Since it appears to be only for led lights, why is that making the transmission light come on?