JD 950 starter problem?

[cheeser]

I bought a JD 950 that sat around a bit before I bought it. I put a new battery in it and it has served me very well, although I think I have a problem with the starter. Every once in awhile (although it is becoming more frequent), when I turn the key to start it and then release it, there is a corresponding rather loud double click that seems to come from the starter. After several repeated attempts at turning the key, she will start.

When I described the problem to someone recently, they told me that it sounded like the plunger in the starter is sticking. It sounds right to me although I thought I'd run it by the accumulated wisdom of the forum. If that is the case, would I lubricate the plunger or replace the plunger? (and if I lubricate it, do I use a wet lubricant like wd40 or a dry lubricant like a teflon spray).

Any help would be deeply appreciated. I'd like to get this taken care of before the deep freeze comes. I'm not extremely mechanically inclined, but can do basic work.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

Water must have leaked in on our old JD BH starter and all that got really rusty. In a bind I pulled it, cleaned it up, lubed it and rotated the starter contact 180 degrees and ordered a new starter which is still in the box.

It will die hard on a 20 degree day when trying to move some snow.

 

[kebo]

The plunger could be the problem, but it could also be a loose/bad connection somewhere between the battery and the solenoid. Also, a poor connection on the battery ground can cause things like that as well. Just need to check all the connections and wiring. Sometimes the heavy current wires can get frayed/corroded underneath the insulation and you can't see it, but this can also cause similar problems to what you have. If that starter is anything like the one on the 750 I had, it's fairly easy to take apart, clean it up, and put it back together. While you have it out, Be sure to check the bearing up in the front of it too. On mine, water had gotten into the bearing and it was rusty and didn't hardly want to turn. I was able to grease it up and get it turning free enough to keep using it. Clean up the contacts inside the starter while you have it apart too.

 

[First one]

We just went though the same kinda thing with a JD 2040. Some time it would start up and some times it would click anywhere from two or three times to a dozen times before it would crank over .After we tried a new starter and a new battery it still did the same thing . It was the starter switch , after we put a new one in we haven't had any trouble with it.
Might be some thing to look into.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

Firstone that set of some bells. The plug keeps trying to slip off the back side of the start button. Sometimes I get nothing but other times it may just be connecting low voltage so the plunger gets sucked in nicely to throw full amps to the starter motor.

 

[ScottAR]

The starter on our 1050 has always been a little flakey... Finally decided that the starter wasn't the problem. Too much voltage drop to the trigger wire on the solenoid was our problem. I put relay in the start circuit and it starts everytime.

 

[AlbionWood]

It kind of sounds like there's just enough juice getting to the starter to make the solenoid close, but not enough to turn over the engine. Or a flaky safety switch, like mine, I have to jiggle the shifter handle to get the **** thing to close. Get a voltmeter and check to see how many volts are making it to the solenoid start terminal when the key is turned.

 

[sal64]

i had a similer problem with my jd1050 made a clicking noise, it was the gear safty switch when it jigled the shifter handel the tractor started.

 

[cheeser]

Thanks for all the thoughts. I also saw a thread which seemed to be similar where the suggestion was to add a 12 volt starter relay.

If anyone can describe how I would install a relay, I would appreciate it. I couldn't find detailed instructions anywhere. (and if anyone can describe the install, imagine that you are talking through a kid ! ) Thanks!

 

[kebo]

I had to add the extra relay to one of the 750's that I used to have. It would crank just fine sometimes, other times it would just click the solenoid. After adding the extra relay, it never gave me another problem cranking it! If I still had it, I would take a picture to show it but I sold that one when I bought the 790 I have now. I will try and describe best as I can how mine was hooked into the circuit.

1) Get a standard 12VDC relay with one set of NO (normally open) contacts rated for at least 10amps (the more the better). I can 't give you a part number, but a guy at my local starter/alt shop sold me mine. He's the one that told me what my problem was and how to fix it. Your local starter shop may be able to hook you up with one?


2) On your tractor, find the heavy gauge red wire leading from the battery and going to the starter. One side of the contacts on the new 12VDC starter relay will attach to that wire.

3) The other side of the contact on the new 12VDC relay will attach to the wire on the solenoid that energizes the solenoid on the starter. This is one of the smaller gauge wires attached to the starter assy and it should come from the ignition keyswitch.

4) The negative side of the coil on the new relay will attach to battery ground (or frame).

5) Last connection, the positive side of the coil of the new relay will attach to the key switch so that it gets 12VDC ONLY when you turn the keyswitch to the crank position. Technically, this will be the same wire that you just hooked up in step 3.

Basically, what happens is when you turn the keyswitch to the crank position, the new extra relay is energized, which closes its set of NO contacts. This jumpers over the 12.8VDC coming straight from the battery (through the heavy gauge wire) over to the coil for the solenoid (plunger) in the starter. It will now draw most of its current through the larger gauge red wire, without the voltage drop that you can have through the smaller gauge wire that originally goes to the solenoid.

Good luck, and hope this fixes your problem!

 

[Gale Hawkins]

Thanks kebo the objective finally clicked.

 

[cheeser]

Thanks, Kebo. This is very helpful. I'll take these instructions with me.

Any idea what the different guage wiring would be on the tractor (in case I need to replace any?)

 

[kebo]

Thanks, Kebo. This is very helpful. I'll take these instructions with me.

Any idea what the different guage wiring would be on the tractor (in case I need to replace any?)

Don't quite understand your question, but usually the wire gauge is printed on the wire. I would guess the wire size to the solenoid is probably 12ga, or maybe 10ga. The wire size to the starter is gonna be big, like maybe 4ga or a 2ga?? If you do add the extra relay, I would use 10ga wire to wire it in. Also use the crimp on ring terminals to make the actual connections.

 

[BuffaloJohn1]

This is an old thread, but I have been working on starter issues. My 950 has had the starter rebuilt twice, most recently days ago. I still have the issue that the solenoid will engage, but will not start. The fellows at the starter place suggested I have too low a voltage for the starter, but the battery is solid, the battery connections are solid. I checked today and the voltage from the key switch to the starter is 12.2v without a starter solenoid load and the battery is 13.4v - hmmm... I suspect that the system needs a relay to bypass the key switch supplying power to the solenoid.

 

[Harry in Ky]

Simple test for that. Remove the signal wire from the starter. Install a short "jumper" wire to the spade on the starter just long enough to reach the main positive battery cable stud. Key and fuel both off, tractor in neutral. Touch the bare end of the jumper to the positive post a few times. Does the starter engage and crank the engine first time every time or does it still give the same effect? Sometimes it works, sometimes not. That will quickly tell you if it's a starter problem or a signal TO the starter problem.

 

[Mike1955]

Negative wire is still in play also. I would make sure that starter has a good ground

 

[BuffaloJohn1]

Simple test for that. Remove the signal wire from the starter. Install a short "jumper" wire to the spade on the starter just long enough to reach the main positive battery cable stud. Key and fuel both off, tractor in neutral. Touch the bare end of the jumper to the positive post a few times. Does the starter engage and crank the engine first time every time or does it still give the same effect? Sometimes it works, sometimes not. That will quickly tell you if it's a starter problem or a signal TO the starter problem.

I used a 4ft piece of 18awg wire and over a dozen times in a row, it cranked immediately. I was convinced before it was the key switch and this test proves it.

The starter rebuild guy said I had low voltage to the starter solenoid (his diagnosis of what they had to fix) and that was what I saw when I tried starting from the key.

The battery ground was solid. I have a low resistance measurement capability and the reading was in the error margin of the measurement (milli ohms).

 

[Harry in Ky]

Then the added relay trick is a great next step.