<font color="blue"> Yes, the solenoid clicks, That's when I know to keep trying.
I've been mulling over replacing it since a new one wasn't that high when I last checked </font>
ScottAR,
Have you tried bypassing the solonoid when it is acting up?
Typically there is a small wire that connects to the solonoid from the ignition switch and a large cable from the battery. There will be another connection that goes from the solonoid into the starter, usually it is just a copper strap that comes out of the starter housing.
You can try shorting across the small terminal on the solonoid to the battery cable terminal. A screw driver works pretty good for this. If the solonoid engages and the starter turns over the engine then you may have problems with the circuit feeding the solonoid. If the starter does run, try shorting from the battery cable terminal on the solonoid directly to the terminal that comes from the starter housing (bypassing the solonoid). If the starter turns (drive will not engage engine), then you may have a bad solonoid.
The solonoid has a metal disk inside that, when the magnet in the solonoid is energized, is pull into contact between the battery cable connection and the connection going inside the starter. This disk can get pitted from arcing when the connection is made or broken. The disk tends to rotate a little through the starting sequence and other vibrations. If the disk becomes stuck you can get one spot in the disk that is pitted so bad that will not conduct enough current for the starter. Multiple clicks on the solonoid may result in the starter turning over if the disk rotates a little to a cleaner spot. Of course the problem just gets worse and worse as the poor connection causes more arcing which cause more pitting which causes more arcing.....
If the solonoid elecro-magnet is weak it may be pulling the contact to slowing. This will also cause arcing and pitting.
Make sure you have the tractor in neutral and the brake set before performing the actions above.
Jeff
