JD Square Balers and other options

   / JD Square Balers and other options #11  
Do you have Welger balers in the States?

They are ludicrously expensive ($30K - $40K) but the output from these things is often as much as a round baler. They are completely shaft driven with no chains. The big models require 150HP to work at their best.

I think they might just be European though...

WELGER BALERS
 
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   / JD Square Balers and other options #12  
Grrrr said:
Do you have Welger balers in the States?

They are ludicrously expensive ($30K - $40K) but the output from these thing is often as much as a round baler. They are completely shaft driven with no chains. The big models require 150HP to work at their best.

I think they might just be European though...

WELGER BALERS

There may be one or two over here but they are not really sold here currently (at least in my areas of travel)
 
   / JD Square Balers and other options #13  
I havent seen the Welger square balers but I know of at least 4-5 round balers here locally. Most of which are worn out but they have been used hard. Especially the one being used here today. Its been rebuilt at least three times. A new vermeer rebel came in last year to help replace it.
 
   / JD Square Balers and other options #14  
I run a JD 337 twine baler behind a 43 PTO HP tractor. It bales best with really thick windrows running it to it's capacity. It hardly ever misses a bale and when it does it's mostly due to operator error. I can run it all day long without any problems. I paid $3,000 for it back in march of this year. Like any piece of equipment if you take care of it, it'll take care of you.
 
   / JD Square Balers and other options #15  
matt21 said:
Like any piece of equipment if you take care of it, it'll take care of you.

Amen!
 
   / JD Square Balers and other options #16  
I'm a former JD 336 owner and my experience didn't match the other comments here.

I must have broke at least a half doz needles before I found out the timing info in the manual was wrong. Broke a knoter frame the first yr for no known reason. When I bought the replacement the first thing I noted was it had to be modified in various ways depending upon which model baler it was going on. Went though the big end ball bearing on the plunger crank once, twice a season. While the bearing slipped out of the mount, the dealers around here only carried the bearing with the mount making cost about 2x. To add insult to injury, JD had a special bearing made so was only available through JD. Fortunately the only difference was the ID was unique size. I made a sleeve and purchased the bearing from a local bearing house. And the noise jack was a killer, somewhat like a bumper jack and the handle wasn't attached. It came flying off one time missing my head by a couple inches. Noted JD went to a more normal crank noise jack the following yr.

When it was working, it would pump a lot of hay out the chute. I tried for 50# bales and on 1st cutting, popping out a bale about every 10 sec about the norm.
 
   / JD Square Balers and other options
  • Thread Starter
#17  
Sounds like later models might be better. The 6 series balers are pretty aren't they?

D.
 
   / JD Square Balers and other options #19  
I'll mention my good experience with a JD 336, I've had mine about 4 years now. Its only misses about 1 out of every 2000 ties now.

Of the bad things I have to say is I hate the swing design, the MF 224 we used to use had a ball bearing pivot that was silky smooth to swing.

Also, it will pump out a lot of hay, but I find if I push it hard on 40 lb bales, they start to banana. I still have to go through it to see what is causing this.
 
   / JD Square Balers and other options #20  
slowzuki said:
Also, it will pump out a lot of hay, but I find if I push it hard on 40 lb bales, they start to banana. I still have to go through it to see what is causing this.

Its your feed forks into the bale chamber. You need to adjust them deeper or shallower. If you are standing at the back of your baler and the bale is coming out like a C, then you need to adjust them shallower to pull the hay in less. Backwards C and then you need to adjust them to pull the hay in deeper.
 

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