JD2010 dies when temp hits "normal"

[npartsch]

My 1964 JD 2010 starts right up but doesn't like to run. Whether idling or moving, it will just quit after around 20 minutes of running, or about the time the temperature gauge hits "normal", and will restart after sitting for maybe up to 10 minutes. I've had a rebuilt carburetor put on, checked the fuel lines, put a new coil in, and still dies as if someone turned the key off. I am not a mechanic and it's a flat $125 to haul it into the dealer to look at, but if I can get a handle on what to look for, it will take the professionals less time to trouble shoot. I have two left hands, have never been able to even set points properly, and am not sure what else to look at. Is this a rather common problem?

 

[Roadworthy]

Disconnect your fuel line as near to the tank as you can. Put a container under the hose. See if fuel continues to flow freely after a couple of minutes. If fuel flow trickled down or stops you've found your problem.

 

[npartsch]

did that, also. checked the gas at the carb once it died. I also switched gas when the carb was installed by the dealer.

 

[Tinhack]

It could be electrical (ignition). I've had coils go dead after heating up. After it dies, immediately check to see if you're getting spark. If you've eliminated fuel starvation, it's gotta be ignition.

Also check to see if there's a resistor in the coil circuit. The resistors can go "open" when hot. They are typically wire wound over a core and covered with ceramic. Newer versions can be resistor wire which can also break connection when hot.

 

[npartsch]

I had the ignition switch replaced about 10 years ago, logic (and limited knowledge) leads me to believe the points and plugs are fine because it always starts right up even after sitting for a few weeks. Could something with the condenser, rotor or distributor cap just shut it down when the temp reaches normal on my gauge?

 

[SPYDERLK]

It could be electrical (ignition). I've had coils go dead after heating up. After it dies, immediately check to see if you're getting spark. If you've eliminated fuel starvation, it's gotta be ignition.

Also check to see if there's a resistor in the coil circuit. The resistors can go "open" when hot. They are typically wire wound over a core and covered with ceramic. Newer versions can be resistor wire which can also break connection when hot.

Find that resister. On my 2010 it is right next to the coil. When the engine cuts off take a clip lead and connect one clip to one end of the resister and the other clip to the other end. If the engine will now start thats it! Dont leave it clipped. Replace the resister.

 

[Tinhack]

I had the ignition switch replaced about 10 years ago, logic (and limited knowledge) leads me to believe the points and plugs are fine because it always starts right up even after sitting for a few weeks. Could something with the condenser, rotor or distributor cap just shut it down when the temp reaches normal on my gauge?

By "ignition", I don't mean the ignition switch. As I said, check the function of the ignition coil and resistor. Since you stated it dies and won't restart, I'm guessing it's the coil. Typically, the coil gets full voltage during "START". And after the key is returned to "RUN", voltage is routed through the resistor to keep the coil from overheating.

ADDED: If the engine dies and DOES restart but fails to keep running, That indicates the resistor is bad. If it won't start or run, that indicates the coil is bad (normally). Other items in the "ignition" circuit could be bad such as the condenser or wiring. You just need to look beyond the switch.

 

[Tinhack]

Found a picture of the coil. This is my old Sulair 160 compressor. It's not a JD but it shows a typical coil/resistor set up. The coil is black and mounted between #2 #3 cylinder. The white item to the left of the coil is a resistor. Find YOURS.

 

[npartsch]

I changed the coil early on with the recommended 12volt for a 2010, it didn't make a difference. I don't see a resister in-line with coil wiring.

 

[DutchInNZ]

Have seen that once before, long ago on my Brit bike and it drove me absolutely crazy. The reason was that the little air pressure equalisation vent in the petrol tank cap was blocked. When the petrol was sucked out, a vacuum inside of the tank build up until nothing came out any more. Waiting a while did make the vacuum slowly disappear and the thing ran again for some time. Checking the flow by running some petrol directly out of the tank connection does not show this as the test quantity is too little to cause the vacuum effect. Discovered that by chance when running the tank completely empty once without the cap screwed on well enough while after tanking the problem was there again. Try running it without the tank cap (careful with sloshing) or with it just in its place without it being tightened. Who knows, very rare but maybe this time it is the same cause.

 

[rScotty]

I had the ignition switch replaced about 10 years ago, logic (and limited knowledge) leads me to believe the points and plugs are fine because it always starts right up even after sitting for a few weeks. Could something with the condenser, rotor or distributor cap just shut it down when the temp reaches normal on my gauge?

Yes, any of that could cause be temperature sensitive. Condensors are particularly sensitive to temperature.

Since you said that it shuts down as if the key were turned off, that's a clue to look for the problem in the ignition system. You can probably replace every item in that ignition for $125.00. Replace the plug wires and caps on that old 2010 as well. They get old.
Since we can't troubleshoot it with you, just replace all those pieces you mentioned even if they look good.

If it were carburation problem it will typically sputter and lose RPM instead of just suddenly quitting.
rScotty

 

[SPYDERLK]

I changed the coil early on with the recommended 12volt for a 2010, it didn't make a difference. I don't see a resister in-line with coil wiring.

I think the consensus is pretty much fixed on a spark problem based on your description. The key to me is that it manifests suddenly w/o warning, and it will not fire up again until it has cooled. a] A faulty ignition switch does not fit this well because cycling it OFF/ON to restart typically renews the tenuous electrical contact that opened up and stopped you. b] A coil does fit, but you have changed that w/o effect. c] The distributor cap, rotor or points could be if you have some moisture trapped in the distributor. - - Condenser not so much because it should act up a bit in warning. d] The center spark lead from coil to distributor could be, but the heat relation doesnt fit well. e] A bad connection in the wiring that exits the ignition switch to power the distributor points and coil. This includes that coil resistor.

I would start with [c]:
c] Remove the distributor cap and rotor. Do you see any condensation inside? Even if not, leave it open in the hot sun for half an hour before closing it. Dont forget the rotor - Iv done that!
d] Run your tractor stationary in the dark until it dies. Try to restart. Do you see any sparks at the distributor cap or coil?
e] Call your dealer and find out whether your model has a coil resistor. Most do. Find out where its supposed to be.

 

[npartsch]

I replaced the gas cap early on, and did try running without the cap, no change. I got as far as making sure I have a good spark when it dies and won't start, so I'm going back to the fuel lines.

Since nothing I've done works, I'm starting over....let the fuel run from the tank, and am wondering if the flow isn't right. Should it be a steady stream? I'm wondering if my stream isn't a valid stream. If I want to change the fuel filter, can I do it from the bottom up or do I have to pull the tank out? Since I just play at farming, I don't even know how to pull the tin off.

 

[DutchInNZ]

I don't know your tractor, so i have no idea where that filter sits. Is that the only filter in the feed line? Just a few ideas.

Before you do that effort, you might try the feeding system between the tank and the carb. Run one half full tank or so of petrol directly from the tank and check whether the flow keeps constant and steady and looks like sufficient for the diametre of the opening. Compare that with a flow of water through the same size of opening, through a hose e.g. I know, a half full tank is like looking at paint drying, but as it is a fault in time you don't have too much choice. Then connect the line to the carb, take the feed line off there and do the same there. A small difference is likely, but it should not differ much and the main thing to look at is its continuity there too. It is rare but not unknown that a gasoline line gets partly clogged. This goes only for a gravity feed; if you have a pump in-between then that only works till the pump's entrance.

If there is a pump it might be that the pump's membrane is faulty. Make sure that that membrane is good, otherwise with an electrical one you leak petrol into the coil or with a mechanical one the petrol leaks into the engine oil.

Get some polyethylene gasoline hose and run that from the tank to the carb resp. from the tank to the pump and from the pump to the carb. If that circumventing helps, it is of course someplace in the line and not in the filter. If it doesn't, circumvent also the filter by hanging the hose with its opening mid-ware in the tank from the top, priming the hose first.

You can also try to blow the filter in reverse with compressed air, with an empty tank of course. While the tank is empty, shine with a LED hand lamp (not a hot mains bulb) inside to look at the junk at the bottom. As it is from 1964, there might be. Also try to clean the water out, if any.

If you are desperate enough to want to have confirmed that it is the petrol starving: when the engine dies, immediately take the feed line off the carburetor and screw open the float chamber. Full? Then it's not the feed, but make sure it is not water sucked from the possible bottom layer in the tank.

Let us know how this goes. Btw, petrol penetrates slowly through the skin and is a nerve poison at prolonged contact.

 

[npartsch]

Some excellent advice, I'm taking a couple days away from t he farm however and won't probably have the time for a week to try isolating, etc. I'm thinking I wasn't patient enough testing lines before.

 

[npartsch]

So I'm convinced my gas tank has an obstruction, was suggested that I run a wire up the gas line, which I haven't done yet. I can't find literature or chat whether there's a filter or mesh cover in the tank. Is the wire trick recommended?

 

[KWentling]

I agree with others saying that it isn't a fuel issue. That would be indicated my sputtering to a stop. The only possibility I can think of on the fuel supply side would a float sticking. My last gas tractor left the place about 15 years ago. If this was my tractor I would switch it over to electronic ignition. Petronics is one brand. Have you changed the spark plugs? I've seen some weird problems fixed with new plugs.

 

[JD3520Turbo]

It sure sounds electrical to me as well. If it is just flat dying with no sputter, its hard to believe it is fuel related. The symptoms you describe fit a coil failure to a tee. Is it possible that the new coil is failing? If you don't have a resistor inline feeding the coil, then maybe it is getting to much voltage and it is overheating the coil? I am just throwing out ideas.
If you have a volt meter, turn the key on and check the voltage at the coil. If it is 6 volt, then there is a resister in there somewhere. If it is 12 volts, then you don't have a resistor.

If you still think it is fuel related, then you could back blow compressed air up through the tank to see if that dislodge anything that might be in there. Also blow out all the fuel line as well. I suppose the float could be sticking for some reason and causing it to run the bowl down to low causing it to die, but normally there is a sputter and backfire.

I think you said somewhere in the previous posts, that you had spark right after it died, but no start. One other thought might be if you have a nick in the wire going through the distributor that could be grounding out (sort of a longshot). Also be sure and check the coil to dist cap wire and make sure it is in good shape and firmly secured in both ends.

Good Luck and let us know when you figure it out.

 

[Zebrafive]

IIRC JD uses a resistance wire, not a resistor.
Typically the coil + will have two wires. One from the starter solenoid that supplies 12v during starting. The other, the resistance wire, from the Key switch, "I" (ignition) terminal, that is "hot" in "Run"
You could run a new wire (from key switch to coil + terminal) with a resistor from a 12v ignition system and see if that fixes the problem

 

[rScotty]

Just fixed a similar problem on a diesel that would run slower and slower and then die when the temperature got to normal.

It turned out to be a combination of fuel filter plugged and gas cap not venting.
Nothing to do with temperature at all other than it being about how long it took to use up the fuel in the float & lines.