JD2010 dies when temp hits "normal"

[npartsch]

My 1964 JD 2010 starts right up but doesn't like to run. Whether idling or moving, it will just quit after around 20 minutes of running, or about the time the temperature gauge hits "normal", and will restart after sitting for maybe up to 10 minutes. I've had a rebuilt carburetor put on, checked the fuel lines, put a new coil in, and still dies as if someone turned the key off. I am not a mechanic and it's a flat $125 to haul it into the dealer to look at, but if I can get a handle on what to look for, it will take the professionals less time to trouble shoot. I have two left hands, have never been able to even set points properly, and am not sure what else to look at. Is this a rather common problem?

 

[Roadworthy]

Disconnect your fuel line as near to the tank as you can. Put a container under the hose. See if fuel continues to flow freely after a couple of minutes. If fuel flow trickled down or stops you've found your problem.

 

[npartsch]

did that, also. checked the gas at the carb once it died. I also switched gas when the carb was installed by the dealer.

 

[Tinhack]

It could be electrical (ignition). I've had coils go dead after heating up. After it dies, immediately check to see if you're getting spark. If you've eliminated fuel starvation, it's gotta be ignition.

Also check to see if there's a resistor in the coil circuit. The resistors can go "open" when hot. They are typically wire wound over a core and covered with ceramic. Newer versions can be resistor wire which can also break connection when hot.

 

[npartsch]

I had the ignition switch replaced about 10 years ago, logic (and limited knowledge) leads me to believe the points and plugs are fine because it always starts right up even after sitting for a few weeks. Could something with the condenser, rotor or distributor cap just shut it down when the temp reaches normal on my gauge?

 

[SPYDERLK]

It could be electrical (ignition). I've had coils go dead after heating up. After it dies, immediately check to see if you're getting spark. If you've eliminated fuel starvation, it's gotta be ignition.

Also check to see if there's a resistor in the coil circuit. The resistors can go "open" when hot. They are typically wire wound over a core and covered with ceramic. Newer versions can be resistor wire which can also break connection when hot.

Find that resister. On my 2010 it is right next to the coil. When the engine cuts off take a clip lead and connect one clip to one end of the resister and the other clip to the other end. If the engine will now start thats it! Dont leave it clipped. Replace the resister.

 

[Tinhack]

I had the ignition switch replaced about 10 years ago, logic (and limited knowledge) leads me to believe the points and plugs are fine because it always starts right up even after sitting for a few weeks. Could something with the condenser, rotor or distributor cap just shut it down when the temp reaches normal on my gauge?

By "ignition", I don't mean the ignition switch. As I said, check the function of the ignition coil and resistor. Since you stated it dies and won't restart, I'm guessing it's the coil. Typically, the coil gets full voltage during "START". And after the key is returned to "RUN", voltage is routed through the resistor to keep the coil from overheating.

ADDED: If the engine dies and DOES restart but fails to keep running, That indicates the resistor is bad. If it won't start or run, that indicates the coil is bad (normally). Other items in the "ignition" circuit could be bad such as the condenser or wiring. You just need to look beyond the switch.

 

[Tinhack]

Found a picture of the coil. This is my old Sulair 160 compressor. It's not a JD but it shows a typical coil/resistor set up. The coil is black and mounted between #2 #3 cylinder. The white item to the left of the coil is a resistor. Find YOURS.

 

[npartsch]

I changed the coil early on with the recommended 12volt for a 2010, it didn't make a difference. I don't see a resister in-line with coil wiring.

 

[DutchInNZ]

Have seen that once before, long ago on my Brit bike and it drove me absolutely crazy. The reason was that the little air pressure equalisation vent in the petrol tank cap was blocked. When the petrol was sucked out, a vacuum inside of the tank build up until nothing came out any more. Waiting a while did make the vacuum slowly disappear and the thing ran again for some time. Checking the flow by running some petrol directly out of the tank connection does not show this as the test quantity is too little to cause the vacuum effect. Discovered that by chance when running the tank completely empty once without the cap screwed on well enough while after tanking the problem was there again. Try running it without the tank cap (careful with sloshing) or with it just in its place without it being tightened. Who knows, very rare but maybe this time it is the same cause.