JD2010 dies when temp hits "normal"

[rScotty]

I had the ignition switch replaced about 10 years ago, logic (and limited knowledge) leads me to believe the points and plugs are fine because it always starts right up even after sitting for a few weeks. Could something with the condenser, rotor or distributor cap just shut it down when the temp reaches normal on my gauge?

Yes, any of that could cause be temperature sensitive. Condensors are particularly sensitive to temperature.

Since you said that it shuts down as if the key were turned off, that's a clue to look for the problem in the ignition system. You can probably replace every item in that ignition for $125.00. Replace the plug wires and caps on that old 2010 as well. They get old.
Since we can't troubleshoot it with you, just replace all those pieces you mentioned even if they look good.

If it were carburation problem it will typically sputter and lose RPM instead of just suddenly quitting.
rScotty

 

[SPYDERLK]

I changed the coil early on with the recommended 12volt for a 2010, it didn't make a difference. I don't see a resister in-line with coil wiring.

I think the consensus is pretty much fixed on a spark problem based on your description. The key to me is that it manifests suddenly w/o warning, and it will not fire up again until it has cooled. a] A faulty ignition switch does not fit this well because cycling it OFF/ON to restart typically renews the tenuous electrical contact that opened up and stopped you. b] A coil does fit, but you have changed that w/o effect. c] The distributor cap, rotor or points could be if you have some moisture trapped in the distributor. - - Condenser not so much because it should act up a bit in warning. d] The center spark lead from coil to distributor could be, but the heat relation doesnt fit well. e] A bad connection in the wiring that exits the ignition switch to power the distributor points and coil. This includes that coil resistor.

I would start with [c]:
c] Remove the distributor cap and rotor. Do you see any condensation inside? Even if not, leave it open in the hot sun for half an hour before closing it. Dont forget the rotor - Iv done that!
d] Run your tractor stationary in the dark until it dies. Try to restart. Do you see any sparks at the distributor cap or coil?
e] Call your dealer and find out whether your model has a coil resistor. Most do. Find out where its supposed to be.

 

[npartsch]

I replaced the gas cap early on, and did try running without the cap, no change. I got as far as making sure I have a good spark when it dies and won't start, so I'm going back to the fuel lines.

Since nothing I've done works, I'm starting over....let the fuel run from the tank, and am wondering if the flow isn't right. Should it be a steady stream? I'm wondering if my stream isn't a valid stream. If I want to change the fuel filter, can I do it from the bottom up or do I have to pull the tank out? Since I just play at farming, I don't even know how to pull the tin off.

 

[DutchInNZ]

I don't know your tractor, so i have no idea where that filter sits. Is that the only filter in the feed line? Just a few ideas.

Before you do that effort, you might try the feeding system between the tank and the carb. Run one half full tank or so of petrol directly from the tank and check whether the flow keeps constant and steady and looks like sufficient for the diametre of the opening. Compare that with a flow of water through the same size of opening, through a hose e.g. I know, a half full tank is like looking at paint drying, but as it is a fault in time you don't have too much choice. Then connect the line to the carb, take the feed line off there and do the same there. A small difference is likely, but it should not differ much and the main thing to look at is its continuity there too. It is rare but not unknown that a gasoline line gets partly clogged. This goes only for a gravity feed; if you have a pump in-between then that only works till the pump's entrance.

If there is a pump it might be that the pump's membrane is faulty. Make sure that that membrane is good, otherwise with an electrical one you leak petrol into the coil or with a mechanical one the petrol leaks into the engine oil.

Get some polyethylene gasoline hose and run that from the tank to the carb resp. from the tank to the pump and from the pump to the carb. If that circumventing helps, it is of course someplace in the line and not in the filter. If it doesn't, circumvent also the filter by hanging the hose with its opening mid-ware in the tank from the top, priming the hose first.

You can also try to blow the filter in reverse with compressed air, with an empty tank of course. While the tank is empty, shine with a LED hand lamp (not a hot mains bulb) inside to look at the junk at the bottom. As it is from 1964, there might be. Also try to clean the water out, if any.

If you are desperate enough to want to have confirmed that it is the petrol starving: when the engine dies, immediately take the feed line off the carburetor and screw open the float chamber. Full? Then it's not the feed, but make sure it is not water sucked from the possible bottom layer in the tank.

Let us know how this goes. Btw, petrol penetrates slowly through the skin and is a nerve poison at prolonged contact.

 

[npartsch]

Some excellent advice, I'm taking a couple days away from t he farm however and won't probably have the time for a week to try isolating, etc. I'm thinking I wasn't patient enough testing lines before.

 

[npartsch]

So I'm convinced my gas tank has an obstruction, was suggested that I run a wire up the gas line, which I haven't done yet. I can't find literature or chat whether there's a filter or mesh cover in the tank. Is the wire trick recommended?

 

[KWentling]

I agree with others saying that it isn't a fuel issue. That would be indicated my sputtering to a stop. The only possibility I can think of on the fuel supply side would a float sticking. My last gas tractor left the place about 15 years ago. If this was my tractor I would switch it over to electronic ignition. Petronics is one brand. Have you changed the spark plugs? I've seen some weird problems fixed with new plugs.

 

[JD3520Turbo]

It sure sounds electrical to me as well. If it is just flat dying with no sputter, its hard to believe it is fuel related. The symptoms you describe fit a coil failure to a tee. Is it possible that the new coil is failing? If you don't have a resistor inline feeding the coil, then maybe it is getting to much voltage and it is overheating the coil? I am just throwing out ideas.
If you have a volt meter, turn the key on and check the voltage at the coil. If it is 6 volt, then there is a resister in there somewhere. If it is 12 volts, then you don't have a resistor.

If you still think it is fuel related, then you could back blow compressed air up through the tank to see if that dislodge anything that might be in there. Also blow out all the fuel line as well. I suppose the float could be sticking for some reason and causing it to run the bowl down to low causing it to die, but normally there is a sputter and backfire.

I think you said somewhere in the previous posts, that you had spark right after it died, but no start. One other thought might be if you have a nick in the wire going through the distributor that could be grounding out (sort of a longshot). Also be sure and check the coil to dist cap wire and make sure it is in good shape and firmly secured in both ends.

Good Luck and let us know when you figure it out.

 

[Zebrafive]

IIRC JD uses a resistance wire, not a resistor.
Typically the coil + will have two wires. One from the starter solenoid that supplies 12v during starting. The other, the resistance wire, from the Key switch, "I" (ignition) terminal, that is "hot" in "Run"
You could run a new wire (from key switch to coil + terminal) with a resistor from a 12v ignition system and see if that fixes the problem

 

[rScotty]

Just fixed a similar problem on a diesel that would run slower and slower and then die when the temperature got to normal.

It turned out to be a combination of fuel filter plugged and gas cap not venting.
Nothing to do with temperature at all other than it being about how long it took to use up the fuel in the float & lines.