JD3320 what kind of PM will I need to do

[Bigdoggie]

Hello all,
I am getting ready to buy my first tractor. My question is a simple one, is all the PM such as oil changes and such done just by the amount of hours and use? In other words, If I garage it for a year is there any PM I would need to do. As with a car, it is recomended not to leave the oil in for more than 6 months, not sure if that acidic reaction is a scam to sell more oil or not but I want to be prepared to face whatever commitment I will need to make when deciding which tractor to buy. Any advice would be great!!
Thanks
Joe

 

[RoyJackson]

You'll be getting a manual with your tractor and loader (if you get a loader).
The tractor manual is online, so you can get a preview, if you wish. Just click this link.

Your manual will explain the required lubrication, torquing, fluid changes, etc. Keep you manual handy for ready reference.

The 3320 is a nice machine. I hope you enjoy operating it. Be safe!

 

[Bigdoggie]

Hey Roy,
Thanks for the info. I always follw the book to the letter, frustrating to others around me but my stuff is always like new for its ife even with tons of use. I will have a 448 BH and a 300CX FEL. Do you thik it is an issue leaving oil in the machine for extended periods of time if it is not clocking any hours?
Joe

 

[RoyJackson]

Hey Roy,
Thanks for the info. I always follw the book to the letter, frustrating to others around me but my stuff is always like new for its ife even with tons of use. I will have a 448 BH and a 300CX FEL. Do you thik it is an issue leaving oil in the machine for extended periods of time if it is not clocking any hours?
Joe

I change the engine oil annually, regardless of the hours. If the machine is going to set for an extended time, I'll put a thin film of grease on the loader cylinder rods (I think that's in the loader manual) and block the clutch. And, grease all the zerks.
As far as hydraulic fluid...I change it per the manual.

Using a stabilizer in the fuel would probably be a good idea, but I've never done it.

BTW, to me, an "extended period of time" means more then a month. That happens in the winter if we don't get snow.

 

[Chris2520]

as far as the engine oil. if you park the tractor inside
and let it set for a year. its not going to hurt a thing.
i have had show cars and race cars set longer than that.
and no problems. but unless you just wont be there. it will be worse on your
battery than anything. . I would try to crank it as often as i could ..

Chris......

 

[orlo]

Hi:

Not sure about if there are limits or not, but if you change the oil 'pre' storage you should be all set for storage. Although one could argue the viscosity builders break down with age.

Acids form when combustion particles (blow by) and in particular water reach the oil and sit there for a while. So if you were 10 hours away from an oil change it wouldn't make sense to store it that way. Much better to store with 'clean' oil.

They also claim that if you run a stored engine you should always run it long enough to heat up the oil so that any water that makes it into the oil (From running it) boils off. (An example would be starting up a MC a couple times through the winter).

 

[Bigdoggie]

I figured the same on the oil. When I bought my first power stroke in 1997 it was recomended every three months for a change irrespective of the miles. I dorve that truck less than 5K a year but changed the oil 4 times a year. I have always figured it was BS but never wanted to risk it. I always wondered if the oil gets acidic after 3 months........how come there is no experation date on the bottle when I buy it....is it a magic thing where the oil knows it left the bottle and went into an engine?

 

[Bigdoggie]

Ahhhh, thanks Orlo I guess science got the best of me . So oil gets more acidic with the amount of running of the motor, not just contact with the motor. So If I were sopposed to change the oil say every 100 hours (pulling the number out of my a#$ here) and I only had 25 hours then there is little risk of damage but if I had 90 hours then it makes sense to change. I understand the condensation theory also. My understanding is you should never run any diesal for less than 15 minutes and never at a idle (unless you are going to run it under load after that).
Thanks, I am one step closer now
Joe

 

[DieselPower]

I figured the same on the oil. When I bought my first power stroke in 1997 it was recomended every three months for a change irrespective of the miles. I dorve that truck less than 5K a year but changed the oil 4 times a year. I have always figured it was BS but never wanted to risk it. I always wondered if the oil gets acidic after 3 months........how come there is no experation date on the bottle when I buy it....is it a magic thing where the oil knows it left the bottle and went into an engine?

Actually there are dates on most oil bottles, manufactured dates that is. You may not be able to see them but they are there. Many are printed with UV ink. In other words, they only appear under a UV light. As for expiration dates oil life runs about 5 years. After that additives can start to break down and come out of suspension. You don't have short term problems with unopened containers because there is almost no air in them and being sealed there is no way for moisture to enter it.

Now does it break down in your engine in 3 months. I have never read a study that showed it did. If your not performing a UOA then I suggest doing a oil change once a year.

 

[Bigdoggie]

Ok, again I leaned something new, now the really stuipid question....what is UOA, I bet I am not doing it if I dont know what "it" is
Joe