JD4200 Third SCV Kit........(again)...!!!!

[Eric_Phillips]

I got some 3/16" plate from the metal surplus place in town. Used some step bits from Harbor Freight and a drill press and made my own mounting plate. Oh, and I used a sawzall to cut the plate to size. Made my own U-bracket since my ROPS is rectangular tube. This was some metal strapping with threaded rod welded on. Shortly I will be posting a thread showing my project.

 

[Scotty370]

Eldon- Do you have the factory JD bracket that holds the PB lines along with the 3rd QD's? I got one with my PB Kit, Now I've got another!
Eric- My extra bracket won't help you, 'cause it's JD specific. But sounds like you've got you mounting on the run! Just a note, I've gone to NAPA and gotten spring bracket bolts when I've had to attach to square/rect stock. Just u-bolts, w/ square bottoms! ~S

 

[Eric_Phillips]

I knew someone had to make them. I will keep that in mind next time I need a square U-bracket.

 

[mjncad]

mjncad,
Have you run into any problems hooking up to the quick connects next to the power beyond? I have a 4400 and it seems like the power beyond connectors are always in the way. I also noticed that I have a hydraulic fluid leak behind the fender and I will have to take the wheel and fender off to get at it, (hopefully a loose fitting) so I am wondering if I could use hoses instead of the hard lines and then run them up to a mounting bracket that I would attach to the fender or ROPS. Anybody have any suggestions on that, like where I might be able to obtain a bracket that I could u-bolt to the ROPS or bolt to the fender and then use Q/C's other than the expensive JD ones.

Eldon

All of the QD's back there are too close in my opinion, and yes I do have trouble connecting items because of the limited space. I have the same issue with the loader QD's too.

Since I helped the economy by buying lots of crowfoot wrenches to install my kits, I managed to torque all my lines to spec and knock on wood I haven't had a leak. If your leak is at a fitting, I'd try tightening it down a bit. I don't see how changing to hoses will help the leak issue, and all it will do is make a cramped space even tighter. If I understand what your planning, it could make the seat rub against the hoses too.

Hopefully you didn't cross-thread a fitting in an expensive valve body.

 

[elginfarm]

mjncad,
The power beyond and the third SCV were installed as part of my backhoe package so I'm hoping that they didn't cross thread any fittings. The reason I was going to use hoses was to move the disconnects away from the power beyond fitting and hopefully put an electrically controlled splitter so that I can add a tilt cylinder to my hydraulic top link. Thanks for starting the post and adding the pictures because it was exactly the set up on my tractor.
Eric, I'll try my hand at metal fabrication and see if I can come up with something.
You guys gave me some great ideas and helpful information. I'll see what I can do.
Thanks again,
Eldon

 

[mjncad]

mjncad,
The power beyond and the third SCV were installed as part of my backhoe package so I'm hoping that they didn't cross thread any fittings. The reason I was going to use hoses was to move the disconnects away from the power beyond fitting and hopefully put an electrically controlled splitter so that I can add a tilt cylinder to my hydraulic top link. Thanks again,
Eldon

I hate it when I wreck something I'm installing; but I get real upset when I pay good money for someone who claims to be an expert wrecks something. Hopefully all you need to do is snug the fitting down and you'll be good to go leak wise.

If you fab up a new bracket for an electrically controlled diverter, I hope you post pix as I know I would like to see what you come up with.

 

[dfkrug]

....so I am wondering if I could use hoses instead of the hard lines and then run them up to a mounting bracket that I would attach to the fender or ROPS. Anybody have any suggestions on that, like where I might be able to obtain a bracket that I could u-bolt to the ROPS or bolt to the fender and then use Q/C's other than the expensive JD ones.

I used hoses instead of the JD hardlines on my previous JDs, and I plan to
do that with my 4300. I have never used those friction-type valves and I
plan to use a good Prince monoblock instead. I never buy JD QDs, BTW.

Since the 4300 hydraulics are new to me, I will be watching for any pix
of 4200/4300/4400 hydraulics!

 

[Scotty370]

OK, MJN, I'll start with your....".....I hate it when I wreck something I'm installing..."!!! Man! Have you been watching me? You were 'spot-on' about that 'clevis' adjustment. I set the cable bracket in the jam-nut, U-slot, and the clevis I centered for adjustment in both directions. Re-mounted the fender, and did the cable-routing, hole drilling, routine. I found that the handle didn't throw the spool far enough, so I had to take the fender back off, and I had two choices, either lenghten the cable connection at the clevis, or, loosen the jam-nuts, and move it forward, (I needed about1/4") and re-tighten! Opted for that! Well, tighten I did! Broke the cable collar, right at the bracket mount! Well it was a 'clean break' so as a stop-gap measure, I threaded the rear jam nut up over the break, and got the two pieces together inside the rear jam nut! I extended the clevis, put it all back together, an everythings good. Well until I order a new cable. At least I'm only looking at tire and fender removal to get it replaced, not the whole ordeal! Just gotta put the seat on, but fired it up, to no leaks, of course the 3SCV line are probably still empty! Oh well, tommorrow's another day. Just an update on the friction lock. By backing off the friction lock bolt, (under the fender-mounted control lever), it will return to center!! Why can't they just put the linkage adjustment up top? ~Scotty

 

[Willl]

and got the two pieces together inside the rear jam nut!

Hi Scotty, could you replace that jam nut with a 'coupler nut' ?

 

[mjncad]

OK, MJN, I'll start with your....".....I hate it when I wreck something I'm installing..."!!! Man! Have you been watching me? You were 'spot-on' about that 'clevis' adjustment. I set the cable bracket in the jam-nut, U-slot, and the clevis I centered for adjustment in both directions. Re-mounted the fender, and did the cable-routing, hole drilling, routine. I found that the handle didn't throw the spool far enough, so I had to take the fender back off, and I had two choices, either lenghten the cable connection at the clevis, or, loosen the jam-nuts, and move it forward, (I needed about1/4") and re-tighten! Opted for that! Well, tighten I did! Broke the cable collar, right at the bracket mount! Well it was a 'clean break' so as a stop-gap measure, I threaded the rear jam nut up over the break, and got the two pieces together inside the rear jam nut! I extended the clevis, put it all back together, an everythings good. Well until I order a new cable. At least I'm only looking at tire and fender removal to get it replaced, not the whole ordeal! Just gotta put the seat on, but fired it up, to no leaks, of course the 3SCV line are probably still empty! Oh well, tommorrow's another day. Just an update on the friction lock. By backing off the friction lock bolt, (under the fender-mounted control lever), it will return to center!! Why can't they just put the linkage adjustment up top? ~Scotty

I'm not Big Brother, so I wasn't watching.

Yeah, isn't that fun trying to get to that 3rd SCV clevis? Wasn't it fun trying to get the split grommet around the cable installed into the hole you drilled in the fender? I had three of those to do and I swear I probably lost a couple pounds of flab burning calories getting that done.

I've added another round-to-it to my collection...to investigate whether I can fabricate a mechanical linkage to get the full range of motion from the fender levers while still getting return to center capability similar to the loader lever. Don't hold your breath waiting on that from me.

As to your last statement Scotty...JTPYO = Just To Pi$$ You Off!