JD4520 and tilt hydraulics - have questions

[kennyd]

Nice job Pete:thumbsup:

 

[eepete]

I think the hoses on the window was a shared blame. I told them to use the length of hose I had ordered on the cylinder. They treated this like an independant project- 1st extend/move the lines, then connect up the sidelink. They used 3/8" hose, which is overkill for TnT. It never dawned on me that they would use the plate from the loader to hold the female QCs, and they never asked.

I also think there was a limited inventory of hydraulic pieces problem. They probably have a subset of all the fittings that meets their needs. Finally, no one will think through a project on your tractor better than you.

And like any project, once you're done you know how you'd really like to do it.

I'd not thought about the check valves causing the slingshot effect, I think you're right on the money. I think if your using check valves you'll definitely want the needle valve to compensate for that. When grading stuff, you're right that you are constantly adjusting. When mowing, it's nice to have things just stay put. Trade offs, trade offs. But the side link is good to go now hydraulically speaking. Still thinking of milling a slot in it and adding metal strips so I can get the full 3PH float function back...

I'm thinking of getting a "regular" toplink cylinder so I can float it. There are a few placing mowing where that would be nice, and better still with a little 3PH float added in. I can see all the parts on the Surplus Center site. Try that for a bit and then decide if I want to keep the check valve toplink or sell it. And so it goes, each project sows the seeds of the next project.

Pete

 

[jenkinsph]

Pete,
The 110tlb has all three quick disconnects mounted in much the same location as your add on couplers, but these are positioned forward more than yours are. So that was my starting point trying to replicate the Deere setup.

Using the Deere top link hasn't been much of an issue with loosing the adjustment position for me. I did some experimenting with this issue and found that the problem was more often caused by myself. I would inadvertently fumble with the joystick, now when brushhogging I set up the trim for the cutter and then push the joystick lockout tab, then use the rockshaft control as normal. Everthing seems to stay in place for quite some time this way.

 

[AKfish]

Pete,
The 110tlb has all three quick disconnects mounted in much the same location as your add on couplers, but these are positioned forward more than yours are. So that was my starting point trying to replicate the Deere setup.

Using the Deere top link hasn't been much of an issue with loosing the adjustment position for me. I did some experimenting with this issue and found that the problem was more often caused by myself. I would inadvertently fumble with the joystick, now when brushhogging I set up the trim for the cutter and then push the joystick lockout tab, then use the rockshaft control as normal. Everthing seems to stay in place for quite some time this way.

Well.. that's an idea on the use of the joystick "lockout" that I'd likely never, ever think of! This forum is a great place to always learn something new. Thanks, Steve.

AKfish

 

[Cidertom]

For my $0.02 input. I found a couple of manual / check valves a few years ago at Boeing Surplus that in one position functioned as typical spring loaded check valve. In the other position functioned as a piece of pipe. Perhaps that is the right thing for the project at hand (similar to one of my projects). Problem is I can't find any more of them on the shelf anywhere.

'Where did all the surplus go'
'long time looking'
'where did al the surplus go, so long ago'
'gone to smelters every one...'

 

[jgrreed]

Hi Guys,

Would any of you with hydro sidelinks on your 4x20's change anything? Is a 4" stroke the way to go? I'm thinking that I don't need the slotted bottom link, mostly because I've owned my machine for 4 years now, and I didn't actually know what they did until 48 hours ago!!

Thanks, I hope you're all doing well.

-Jeremy.

 

[jenkinsph]

Jeremy,
I have the four inch stroke cylinder and have the manually adjusted link on the opposite side. For 95% of what I do the manual side is set in the middle and this allows tilting left or right with the cylinder. If I need more tilt than this allows I can extend or retract the manual side to accomplish this. In the picture below the boxblade is at the maximum tilt. With the cylinder fully retracted the boxblade is level. If you tilted the hitch much more than this the swivel balls and hitch pins will bind on the lower link arms.

 

[eepete]

I'm happy with the range, as always Steve is right on the money regarding the lower link arms.

So I wouldn't change a thing.

Now I am thinking about a "regular" hydraulic cylinder for the top link for bush hogging and land plaining....

Pete

 

[jgrreed]

Thanks Guys.

-Jer.