Chipper Jimna Chipper: Cutter Bar to Blade Gap

[Ranch_Hand_Supp]

Ranch_Hand_Supp, thank you for your input. You must be a tall fella with long arms. I'm not sure I can do that kind of reaching even with the feed chute removed. But like I told Moeh1, I have the best helper anyone can find. You have been most helpful. Thanks again.

I should also mention that the guys at Affordable Tractor Sales, Tommy and Jerry have helped too. I have spoken with them on the telephone so you didn't see that in this thread. In fact, Jerry is sending the 8mm x 1.5 grease fittings (zerks) that I need to change out the Chinese zerks. No one within 20 miles of here carries the 1.5 thread pitch. All they have is the 1.0. I've even asked them to order them for me and was told, "no can do".

Just an observation, for what it is worth. In the two metric socket sets that I have, 1/2 and 3/8 drive, there is no 16mm. Most of the fasteners on the chipper are 16mm. That must be a common size for the equipment built to metric specs? That is probably also why our tool manufactuers don't include them in the sets. A Kobalt (Lowes) 1/2 drive metric socket set goes for about $17 -$18 for ten sockets (10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 17 18, 19, 20 mm). The 16mm socket sells for $3. Hmmmm!

Hey weldingisfun, I a 5 foot 9 with tired sore fingers and back...lol

No doubt, the Affordable Tractor boys will/can take care of you !

On a side note, a 5/8 will take the place of a 16mm.

Good luck with your Chipper.

Ronald
Ranch Hand Supply

 

[joe48]

Little history lesson, I had a coop job incollege as an agr engineer intern, working for PAPEC Machine Co.
If you're an older farm boy from the NE ,you'll recognize the name as the premier silage choppers in the 50s and 60s. They even made units for Case ,IH, John Deere, etc. and also held most of the original patents on self unloading forage wagons.
Anyhow we spent a lot of time working on the importance of blade shape ,angle or bevel of the grind, CLEARANCES between blade and anvil.
The long and short is : the tighter the clearance can be kept and the sharper the blade and the edge or corner of the anvil can be, the more efficent the machine will work and the less horse power will be required.
Picture an old pair of scissors that that have dull blades or too much gap or bent blades ,trying to cut newspaper, they just pull the paper in and jam and don't cut. Same thing with wood ,branches or corn stalks.

AND MOST IMPORTANT be very carefull where your fingers are when working on things like this, those blades will cut fingers a whole lot easier than branches !!!!!! I have ten fingers , but know some folks that don't!!!!!!

 

[weldingisfun]

Setting the gap between the cutter bar (anvil) and the blade is easier to do with some sort of guage. I have discovered that the plastic ID card I wear to work is exactly .030" thick. It works perfectly. Oh, I used an old one, not the one I wear everyday.