Jinma 254 Starter Troubles

[ljplum12]

My starter is not working in my 254. It started out nice and strong, but slowly got to the point where it would spin, but it was not engaging the flywheel. I took apart the solenoid, cleaned up the terminals, put it back together, and it started working again for a couple weeks until it started doing the same thing. It would spin, but not engage, then eventually kick in and start, but each time it would take longer to kick in until eventually it was just spinning without engaging. I ordered a new solenoid from Tommy at Affordable, got it put together, and the same thing. Started off working like a champ and degraded over the course of maybe 10 starts to where it wouldn't catch.

I pulled the starter off, and if I test it on the bench it seems like it's working like it's supposed to. Here's a video of me testing it: Jinma Starter - YouTube

Why would it not be engaging the flywheel?

 

[ljplum12]

I've got the starter back on the tractor and I'm still not having any luck. Here's what I've tried so far.
- Cleaned up the ground and positive terminals on the battery, and where they connect on the other ends (ground to the chassis, 12V to the starter)
- Used wire connected straight from small terminal to large terminal on solenoid to bypass ignition switch, clutch safety, etc.
- Measured the voltage at the small solenoid terminal when trying to start - measures ~11.08V
- Verified that the solenoid is engaging (video here: Jinma Starter - Solenoid Only - YouTube)
- It did catch once, then went back to not engaging (video here: Jinma Starter - Almost - YouTube)
- Here it is once more, just using a screwdriver in case my wire to the solenoid wasn't making good contact (video here: Jinma Starter - YouTube)

 

[jacques54]

Your Bendix clutch is slipping. On my tractor I had to take the starter apart and bring the starter pignon/clutch assembly to a starter alternator rebuild shop. They didn't have the right one in Stock but the rebuild mine, better than OEM.
Check if yours have some resistance in the mechanism (shouldn't be too free) and go one way only each time.
Jacques

 

[sjb]

Your Bendix clutch is slipping. On my tractor I had to take the starter apart and bring the starter pignon/clutch assembly to a starter alternator rebuild shop. They didn't have the right one in Stock but the rebuild mine, better than OEM.
Check if yours have some resistance in the mechanism (shouldn't be too free) and go one way only each time.
Jacques

You can get a replacement starter drive (Bendix) from any of the Jinma parts suppliers. You can also get one on Aliexpress if you can wait for delivery. They are not that hard to replace.

Stan

 

[ljplum12]

I ended up getting an all new reduction gear starter from Affordable. It's still not starting. I've installed a relay on the ignition wire, so I'm very confident wiring is not the issue.

Here's the full sequence of what happened:
Yesterday, when I put the new starter on, the bottom bolt seemed stripped. Would break loose when I tried to tighten it up. I tightened it up as best as I could and tried to start. The first crank it just ground. The second it actually grapped and started. I turned it off and tried again, and it would only grind. Thought it might because the starter wasn't aligned because it was loose. Today I got new bolts and borrowed a tap (the same size as the previous bolts - 10-1.5), and tapped the holes to clean them up. With the new bolts and tapped out holes it snugged right up. It still only grinds. Here's a video to show what it sounds like: JINMA New Starter? - YouTube

I took off the starter to check the flywheel, and it looks like the ring gear has some grinding on it.



I turned the flywheel a bit to get to a point that didn't look worn, and put the starter back on. It seemed like it tried to catch, but then just went to only grinding. One opinion is that I need to replace the ring gear. Does this damage look bad enough that I would have to do that? How much of the starter/ringer gear should actually contact when they engage?

 

[mrmikey]

Ring gear looks chipped a bit but not enough to stop it from engaging. From the rust on the teeth of the flywheel I'd say the drive is not engaging far enough. Either the drive is not coming out far enough, the ring gear is in too far, wrong starter or wrong parts that hold it out too far. If you keep trying to use it like that, you are going to screw up the ring gear.
Measure how far from the starter mounting face to the edge of the ring gear and then measure from the same face on the starter to the drive fear fully extended, you should be able to pull it out by hand and check the engagement..............Mike

Yeah, listening to that video you're going to grind something bad enough to ruin it

 

[ljplum12]

I'll get some measurements next time I'm able to get out and work on it. If the ring gear is in too far, how is that remedied?

 

[mrmikey]

Hard to tell in the pic and going by memory on mine the ring gear/flywheel were one piece and there's no adjustment so you're left with the starter to play with. As well. looking again at the pic, there's no way the ringgear/flywheel can move any closer to the flange. You sure it's the correct starter?.
Looking again at the pic and it's hard to tell, is it possible the burrs are stopping the drive gear from engaging?..........Mike

 

[ljplum12]

I can't be 100% sure it's the right starter, but I trust the supplier that it is. It's tough to take measurements on it, but it seems like the new starter has about 1/4" less travel than the old one. Is that enough to make a difference?

Here are pictures of the new starter. Should the shoulder of that shaft be pressed flush, or does that not matter? Everything look right?

 

[mrmikey]

IMHO, 1/4" is quite a bit, others may disagree. As well as the travel, check and make sure the nose piece is the same distance in from the mounting surface to make sure the gear is in the same place