Andy
greg_g
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- JD3720 Cab, 300X loader with 4-in-1 bucket
Welcome Andy -
some Jinma owners say they've found timing marks on the flywheel, some have found them on the crankshaft pulley, some have found them both places. There's a small inspection port at the forward edge of the bellhousing. That's where my timing marks can be found. I've never bothered looking for them on the crank pulley. But most that found them there, said they had to remove the radiator for a good view.
//greg//
some Jinma owners say they've found timing marks on the flywheel, some have found them on the crankshaft pulley, some have found them both places. There's a small inspection port at the forward edge of the bellhousing. That's where my timing marks can be found. I've never bothered looking for them on the crank pulley. But most that found them there, said they had to remove the radiator for a good view.
//greg//
3RRL
Super Member
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- 55HP 4WD KAMA 554 and 4 x 4 Jinma 284
Hi Andy,
I can't help you with the actual procedure, but I know Loretta's 2008 Jinma 284 had timing marks on the front pulley. There were several marks on that pulley but I had to use a wire wheel to see them better. I determined which "zero" marks were for top dead center when adjusting the valve lash, but the other marks on the pulley are in degrees. Perhaps you can use them for setting the fuel injector pump? I don't have my manual in front of me ... does yours refer to how many degrees to set it at when reading about the fuel injector pump? Do you have the operating and instruction manuals?
You could also PM Ronald at Ranchhand Supply or Tommy at Affordable Tractor Sales. Both are Chinese tractor dealers that advertise and post frequently on this and other boards. They are of great help. I know Tommy commented in this thread: Injection Fuel Pump
You could check some of the other threads that might have some information you're looking too.
I can't help you with the actual procedure, but I know Loretta's 2008 Jinma 284 had timing marks on the front pulley. There were several marks on that pulley but I had to use a wire wheel to see them better. I determined which "zero" marks were for top dead center when adjusting the valve lash, but the other marks on the pulley are in degrees. Perhaps you can use them for setting the fuel injector pump? I don't have my manual in front of me ... does yours refer to how many degrees to set it at when reading about the fuel injector pump? Do you have the operating and instruction manuals?
You could also PM Ronald at Ranchhand Supply or Tommy at Affordable Tractor Sales. Both are Chinese tractor dealers that advertise and post frequently on this and other boards. They are of great help. I know Tommy commented in this thread: Injection Fuel Pump
You could check some of the other threads that might have some information you're looking too.
Affordable
Advertiser, Platinum Member
The timing on a Yangdong Y385 engine is 16 degree before top dead center
Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company
Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company
greg_g
Super Member
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It's best to verify in your own manual first, cuz there are quite a few variants of the Y385 engine (marine, generator, pump, tractor, etc). Injection pump timing varies from 10 to 18 degrees BTDC, and they run between 2200 and 3000 rpm depending upon application. I'm guessing you have the 2200 rpm Y385T (for tractor) variant. If true, my book says pump timing is set at +14 BTDC (+/-1 degree).
That said, the EPA versions may be different. Perhaps that's the figure Tommy cited.
//greg//
That said, the EPA versions may be different. Perhaps that's the figure Tommy cited.
//greg//
Jinma284
Silver Member
This 284 was purchased new in July 2002. Does that mean it is probably set at 14 degrees?
greg_g
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Jinma284
Silver Member
I can't find my manuels. Two auto mechanics and a diesel mechanic worked on it for 3 hours last night and its still not running this morning. We may try putting the old one back on today.
greg_g
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Did you fill the replacement pump with lube oil before cranking it? If yes, does the hand primer deliver fuel all the way to the end of the soft lines? That's where the low pressure side stops, and the high pressure side starts. If yes, does cranking the engine push fuel through the high pressure side and out the top of the pump head? If yes, is fuel being delivered through the hard lines to the injectors. If the answer to any of the above is no, start troubleshooting backwards from there.
//greg//
//greg//
Diamondpilot
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- Jinma 254/284 Ford 861 Powermaster at work
Could have the engine out 180deg or something like that? I can remember it happening to another but can not remember how much? Maybe 120 deg since its a 3 cylinder?
Chris
Chris
Jinma284
Silver Member
Greg, Andy had put oil in before trying to start. He had also made sure fuel was flowing. After working on it all afternoon, including rechecking TDC, making many, I'm guessing over 50, adjustments to the timing, it would never run. Just chug along, not pick up RPM's. Finally at 6:00 this evening he put to old pump back on. First try with setting the timing and it started, 2 small adjustments and it runs great. Bad pump we are thinking. Tomorrow I spray peach trees. Six hundred of them to be exact.
3RRL
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Great to hear you got it running again.
Just curious ... why did you get the new injector pump in the first place?
Just curious ... why did you get the new injector pump in the first place?
I've got just one little ole peach tree but, really don't know how to take care of it. With what and when should I be spraying it?
Jinma284
Silver Member
When I changed oil in the pump it would very soon be diesel fuel, not oil. Figured the seals were blown. Had read that can cause problems. I ran the tractor for a little over 2 hours spraying the field. Heat stayed constant as did the oil pressure. About 5 minutes before being done, I was actually comming back up the last row, the tractor chattered, like diesel noise but a lot faster about 8-10 times and didn't run as smooth. I went about 100 feet and the temp started going up, I could actually see the hand moving, oil pressure stayed good. I stopped and started to shut down but before I could shut down it stopped running. I was afraid it had siezed up, but I went back in about an hour and it would turn over. Just let it turn over once and stopped. Its not siezed up. Any ideas?
Dwayne, we probably got different critters down here in Fla than you do in Ky. I would check with tractor supply or maybe even Wal-Mart. I know tractor supply sells a combo poison and fungicide in a quart size that you can mix with water. When the bloom drys up and the little peach starts to bust it off you can make your first spray. Spray once per week for about 5 weeks. After that you would only need to spray to control stink bugs or whatever you may have in Ky. I would stop spraying 2 weeks before harvest. I make sure that I stop spraying soon enough that they can be picked and eat right from the tree. We sell U-Pick and thats part of the joy they get coming out to the farm. I just love watching them come back to the stand with peach juice running down their arms and their shirts all stained. Pat
Dwayne, we probably got different critters down here in Fla than you do in Ky. I would check with tractor supply or maybe even Wal-Mart. I know tractor supply sells a combo poison and fungicide in a quart size that you can mix with water. When the bloom drys up and the little peach starts to bust it off you can make your first spray. Spray once per week for about 5 weeks. After that you would only need to spray to control stink bugs or whatever you may have in Ky. I would stop spraying 2 weeks before harvest. I make sure that I stop spraying soon enough that they can be picked and eat right from the tree. We sell U-Pick and thats part of the joy they get coming out to the farm. I just love watching them come back to the stand with peach juice running down their arms and their shirts all stained. Pat
Jinma284
Silver Member
The next day Andy worked on the tractor again, adjusting the fuel pump and I finished spraying. I rinsed out the rig 3 times and then put some cleaning and neutralizing solvent in the tank to finish cleaning. Just as I finished the tractor started to labor, the heat went up and I shut it down. Today Andy worked on adjusting the pump again and it ran good for about 15 minutes and then labored, heat went up and it shut down again. Anyone ever have this problem. We still have the old injector pump in the tractor. Got to get this thing fixed so I can spray peaches again. Pat
Diamondpilot
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Have you tried changing the thermostat? It may be sticking and causing the heating up. Real cheap fix. You need a 80C t-stat. You can get one at Napa or any auto parts store.
Chris
Chris
johnk
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Check the radiator level and make sure you don't have a leaking head gasket. Also check the oil level and make sure it isn't way above the fill mark. Just a thought ....
erj
Gold Member
Did you get a replacement for the new pump that didn't work properly?
RonJ
RonJ
Jinma284
Silver Member
Tomorrow I will replace the air filter and the T-stat. There is no oil in the water, and no water in the oil. Water level stays constant when circulating with no air bubbles in it. I shipped the fuel injector pump back to Ronald but he has not received it yet. He has been very helpful. He called today just to talk about it and give helpful advice. Based on what Ronald, Andy and I think, we will try checking all the fuel filters in the line prior to the fuel pump. Something Greg suggested a while back. The reason that came up was because I tried to start the tractor and it wouldn't fire. I then unscrewed the hand pump on the fuel pump, pumped it a few times and tried to start. It fired 2 or 3 times but did not start. We all three now think there could be a fuel supply problem. Will find out tomorrow night. What is really puzzling to us is why does it run fine for a while then suddenly start laboring to run, lose power and the temp rapidly goes up. What is the connection and or is there a connection. One or two problems. Will know more tomorrow night. Will know more when Ronald gets the new pump back and test it on one of his tractors. If it runs on his tractor he will set the tractor on top dead center, then remove the pump and send to us. We will put our tractor on top dead center and then install the pump. Should be right. More to come. Pat
I have a 2004 Kama ts354c and it ran good for a time and then it would have fuel issues. I would clean the filters and it would run good again. I did this several times over two years. I finally inspected the line filter carefully and found threads in it. I removed the fuel tank and fuel sender. I found my problem to be a rag in the tank. It was behind the baffle in the fuel tank and over the fuel pick up. I have not had any more fuel problems. I don't know if you may have this problem but I would check it carefully. kidney