Jinma 284 Loader Relief Valve issue

[oldnslo]

You could try turning tractor over briefly. Be best if you can prevent it from starting though. Maybe put the black adjustment in to reduce chance of parts launching into the wild blue yonder.

Are there any cross drill passages large enough for the parts to lost or lodged in?

 

[MikeBen]

Hi All,
So I was able to get the plunger out by briefly turning the tractor over as some of you suggested. I have reassembled it correctly this time and everything works like a charm.
Thanks for all the help.
Mike

 

[oldnslo]

Mike
Thanks for letting us know you resolved this issue and it is up and running again.

 

[electrycmonk]

i'm curious with a "blind" suggestion (pun enforced) about the stuck part inside.... have you thought of using the air compressor with the air gun attachment and a rubber plug to seal up around the air gun nozzle so the air will push it out from the opposite side that you accidentally inserted the part from?

 

[Rick in WA]

I have the same problem on my backhoe with the stuck relief. Does this come out the bottom or the top? I assume the bottom. I have tried using my nut driver to pound it out from the top down, but feel like I might be doing more damage to something under it, and it feels very solid. Unless someone has something different to get it out, I will try running it to see if I can pressure it out. (pump is moving fluid, but absolutely nothing moves. valves had sat awhile and seized up, but they all appear fine now after a good PB blaster soak. I assume the relief is the same way)
Thanks, Rick

 

[piper184]

Which backhoe do you have?

Post a picture of the valve assembly, it might help others figure out what you have and how it is configured.

 

[Rick in WA]

it is a 2003 backhoe with a tag that says YW-6 followed by 160. It is also the same relief valve assembly as MikeBen posted at the start of this thread.
Thanks, Rick

 

[Rick in WA]

so i managed to get the part circled in red out along with the spring and the silver looking 'piston' out, but the next part that looks like a barrel with the o-ring in it, and the silver looking 'piston', are still stuck inside. The valve body had sat a long time and got rusty, so I am sure it is seized in it. I have put a lot of PB blaster down it, but I just need to know if I am trying to drive it out the bottom, or the top? Anyone know?

 

[piper184]

Since I have never had one apart, this is just a pure guess.

Working right to left, starting with the screw on cap at the upper right. That should unscrew and the spring should come out easy enough.

The next piece to the left has a precision ground silver area that would be a close tolerance fit to a precision ground bore in the body. IF the hole under the cap is larger than the precision bore, that piece should come out toward the cap.

However the next part to the left (with the o-ring) looks to be larger than the part on its right, so it is possible that everything is supposed to go out toward the left of the picture. I am pretty sure the part with the o-ring can not go out towards the cap on the right.

If the hole where the spring goes is only large enough for the spring to clear, then everything else must go to the left.

The silver precision ground piece to the left of the part with the o-ring, most likely fits inside the part with the o-ring and there is a precision ground bore inside that part.

If there is rust inside, it may have welded the precision parts together. I would suggest using some heat to try and get the housing to expand enough to break the rust bond. You may need to get the housing to 3 or 4 hundred degrees for this to happen. If you can't get it that hot, try to get it to at least 250 and let it cool down on its own. It may take several cycles of this to break that rust loose.

Another thing to try is vibration. Tapping on the housing in all directions during the heat cycles will help get the rust penetrate to soak in better.

Wish I had more experience with this, but on the other hand, kinda glad I don't.