RonMar
Elite Member
<font color="blue">( Where is the crankcase breather filter?? )</font>
<font color="black"> It is on the right side of the engine block. There is a pipe that comes out of the engine block and bends upward. There is a can on top of this with a wingnut on top. It is part numbers 50-55 in the picture in the following link.
http://johnstractor.homestead.com/files/EngineBodyFig001.jpg
You were correct in your assesment that it is a PCV system. The slight vacume keeps an airflow through the engine. Air comes in through the breather filter and out through the hose on the oil fill cap and is burnt in the engine. This is also important to help remove fuel vapors when the engine is warm. Diesel fuel gets past the rings and dilutes the engine oil. When the engine and oil is at high temp, this fuel vaporizes in the crankcase. If not removed, these vapors can cause a crankcase explosion.
Clogged filters could also contribute to your overheating problem as you would be burning more fuel to maintain RPM while mowing. Many commercial filter assemblies and even a lot of the newer SUV airfilters have telltales on them that show when the vacume between the filter and the engine is too great and the filter needs cleaned/replaced. When my tractor was delivered, I put a "T" in that clear line and mesured the vacume there at idle and full RPM just for my info. I was contemplating putting a small vac gauge on the panel to let me know If I have clogged the filters while operating. As it is now, I check/clean the air filter whenever I have to clean the radiator. </font>
<font color="black"> It is on the right side of the engine block. There is a pipe that comes out of the engine block and bends upward. There is a can on top of this with a wingnut on top. It is part numbers 50-55 in the picture in the following link.
http://johnstractor.homestead.com/files/EngineBodyFig001.jpg
You were correct in your assesment that it is a PCV system. The slight vacume keeps an airflow through the engine. Air comes in through the breather filter and out through the hose on the oil fill cap and is burnt in the engine. This is also important to help remove fuel vapors when the engine is warm. Diesel fuel gets past the rings and dilutes the engine oil. When the engine and oil is at high temp, this fuel vaporizes in the crankcase. If not removed, these vapors can cause a crankcase explosion.
Clogged filters could also contribute to your overheating problem as you would be burning more fuel to maintain RPM while mowing. Many commercial filter assemblies and even a lot of the newer SUV airfilters have telltales on them that show when the vacume between the filter and the engine is too great and the filter needs cleaned/replaced. When my tractor was delivered, I put a "T" in that clear line and mesured the vacume there at idle and full RPM just for my info. I was contemplating putting a small vac gauge on the panel to let me know If I have clogged the filters while operating. As it is now, I check/clean the air filter whenever I have to clean the radiator. </font>
mark1
Gold Member
- Joined
- Apr 11, 2004
- Messages
- 351
- Location
- Spencerport,NY
- Tractor
- Jinma 284,Jd GT235,345,Trac-Vac1080
Yeh..any hose will do..I used some ole vacuum hose I had around from a old car.Others have said they noticed lower oil pressure when that hose colapsed??Don't know why but ???
OK. Here is the update. I tried all the suggestions.
I flushed the radiator, blew out all the debris in the fins, installed a furnace filter, re-routed the air intake. Installed distilled water and coolant 50/50.
I looked at the shroud alignment, looked OK. Should the fan be closer or farther away from the radiator?
Still was overheating. I am running a 4' deck and the grass is 4-5' tall.
I then removed the thermosatat, it looked "sprung", with one side popped loose. Anyway I left it out. Seemed to help a little bit.
I was running in the green rpm zone in 1st low. I could go for about 5 minutes before hitting 100C. I would then pop the hood and let it cool for a couple of minutes. The engine doesn't bog down, so I don't think it's overloaded. I got tired of this and ran with the hood up and it ran at about 90C. This was a cool day also. Something still doesn't seem right.
TJW
I flushed the radiator, blew out all the debris in the fins, installed a furnace filter, re-routed the air intake. Installed distilled water and coolant 50/50.
I looked at the shroud alignment, looked OK. Should the fan be closer or farther away from the radiator?
Still was overheating. I am running a 4' deck and the grass is 4-5' tall.
I then removed the thermosatat, it looked "sprung", with one side popped loose. Anyway I left it out. Seemed to help a little bit.
I was running in the green rpm zone in 1st low. I could go for about 5 minutes before hitting 100C. I would then pop the hood and let it cool for a couple of minutes. The engine doesn't bog down, so I don't think it's overloaded. I got tired of this and ran with the hood up and it ran at about 90C. This was a cool day also. Something still doesn't seem right.
TJW
Ranch_Hand_Supp
Advertiser
TJW, You may have found something with that sprung thermostat?. I recommend replacing it and keeping a thermostat in the engine. I dont think the coolant will stay in the radiator long enough to cool with out it.
The fan blade pulls air through the radiator....so it should be adjusted so the max amount of air is being drawn through the shroud.
Make sure fan belt is not loose.
Ronald
The fan blade pulls air through the radiator....so it should be adjusted so the max amount of air is being drawn through the shroud.
Make sure fan belt is not loose.
Ronald
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
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- 51,575
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- Central florida
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- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
I agree with the other poster.. the thermostat is designed to keep water in the radiator long enough to let it cool down..
Soundguy
Soundguy
hbaird
Silver Member
consider another opinion please. First water flowing in a radiator can be considered in laminar flow. This means most of the passages for water are in constant contact with the water. This allows good heat conduction from water to the metal, then fins, and then to the air flow from the fan and any forward motion. In an auto the air flow from forward motion becomes the primary contributor at and beyond highway speeds. No matter how fast the airflow gets, well short of high fractional mach numbers of course, the cooling just gets better and better. The same is true of the water flowing in the radiator. The water moves the fastest at the highest RPM and when the thermostat is full open. This gives the most cooling. Thermostats when full open are designed to provide the maximum flow possible. No thermostat is only a little different than a full open thermostat. The water would have to fail to contact the metal passages to cause a loss in cooling. If this was a gasoline engine I would say the over heating is either the wrong ignition timing or mixture is too lean. Perhaps combustion timing is off here.
Harold
Harold
greg_g
Super Member
- Joined
- Dec 18, 2003
- Messages
- 6,126
- Location
- Western Kentucky
- Tractor
- JD3720 Cab, 300X loader with 4-in-1 bucket
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Perhaps combustion timing is off here.Harold )</font>
Or maybe the coolant isn't staying in the radiator long enough to cool off !
//greg//
Or maybe the coolant isn't staying in the radiator long enough to cool off !
//greg//
hbaird
Silver Member
I don't understand what that means. Can you please explain to an old engineer how that can happen. The faster the engine turns the faster the coolant flows. The water pump empeller is a constant volume device. It moves about the same volume of water each revolution. The higher the RPM, the faster the empeller turns. The faster it turns the higher the velocity of the coolant thru the system. The coolant can be considered to be standing still and the heat flowing thru the system for calculations. The water to metal contact is constant for all coolant velocitys. the higher the coolant velocity the lower the temperature drop across the radiator for a constant heat load. The hot water enters the radiator at the bottom and exits at the top, reverse syphon. The water cools as it rises. More is better when it comes to flow across the radiator. Are you saying it is better to a point but the small increase from removing the thermostat will cause the coolant to not make contact anymore? If that was the case if you increase the RPM of the engine a little would you expect the cooling system to stop working? Would you expect better cooling if the thermostat did not open completely? Where is the special point the radiator will stop working? I have worked with hopped up engines that turned 50% faster than stock and developed 50% more power. About 1/3 the fuel pushs the piston, 1/3 goes out the exaust and1/3 out the radiator. In some cases a larger empeller in needed sometimes not. But in all cases a lot more water goes thru the radiator at a lot higher speed. far faster than removing the thermostat.
Harold
Harold
