Jinma 284

[Kernopelli]

I am going to look at a Jinma 284 tomorrow. Don't know many details about it, like if it's shuttle shift but I believe it is a 2005 model and they say it shows 175hrs on a working tach and is very clean. Comes with a JD mower (not sure if that means an RFM or bush hog or what size). Local car dealer has it for $2995.
I have no need for it right now but if it's as nice as it sounds, I don't know how I could pass it up. I haven't run it by the boss yet, but she is pretty flexible when it comes to me picking up a real bargain.

Can any one offer any advice on issues specific to this model that I should pay special attention to?

 

[Smalljobs]

I have only two pcs advice:
1) Price is highly competitive and might reflect this troubled economy
2) You reallly need to check this out for owner history and then from a functional point. Where did it come from, how was it prep'd, who owned it, talk to them, operate it or bring an experienced person to do same, negotiate.
3) Listen to others on this board.
4) Be careful but open minded.

 

[greg_g]

Look closely at ALL the fluids. What you do NOT want to see is:
1. green soupy hydraulic fluid (dipstick is under seat)
2. yellow soupy engine oil
3. black film floating on anti-freeze
4. brown soupy anti-freeze
5. yellow soupy gear oil in creeper or shuttle
6. yellow soupy gear oil in transmission/differential
7. yellow soupy gear oil in front differential

#2 and/or #3 indicate the head gasket was not retorqued as required at 50 hours. The rest are a strong indication that the original Chinese fluids were never flushed and replaced with clean/dry fluids.

Check for no more than 1" free play in the clutch pedal. Start engine, engage PTO. There should be no grinding. PTO should be fully engaged with clutch pedal 1/2 released. Second half of pedal travel should get tractor moving. If possible, look through clutch inspection window on bell housing. All 3 clutch fingers should be an equidistant 1/8" away from the throwout bearing face.

With the engine running, turn steering wheel and raise/lower three point hitch. There should be no hesitation in either, and both should work simultaneously without interfering with each other.

There's more - but these checks go a long way to confirm/deny proper assembly and maintenance in the critical first 50 hours of operation.

//greg//

 

[Kernopelli]

Thanks for the input. I went first thing this morning and the gentleman that had it has a small lot out in the sticks. Appeared to be pretty comfortable..... very nice property, vehicles, etc and I saw a brand new Kubota MX108 cab tractor and a JD of some type behind it in his pole barn and 4 nice Masseys of varying size under a lean-to behind his pole barn. He told me he liked to play with his "toys" and really only need 1, 50 hp tractor to take care of his place but the rest are "just because".
He said he just bought a local marina/campground for his son to run and it came with the Jinma and JD RFM. His son put about 100 hrs on the Jinma and told his dad he wanted a Kubota cab tractor to mow with so that's why they were selling the Jinma. He told me he would take $2800 cash for it and I could use his truck and trailer to take it home if I wanted to get it right then. I couldn't resist and started loading, while I was putting the tractor on the trailer, he comes around the back of the barn with a 4' bush hog hanging from the FEL on a Massey 271 and puts it on the back of the trailer with the Jinma and finish mower.....said it was too small for any of their tractors and wanted to know if it was OK that he threw it in on the deal. Gee, I guess so.
While I was there two other people pulled up with towing empty trailers asking about the Jinma and another guy called and I heard the owner explaining I was loading it as they spoke.
Anway, the tractor checks out pretty good so far, fluids are clean, hydraulics, clutch, pto OK and all the gauges but the fuel gauge work, so even if it turns out there are some various minor problems ( I'm sure there will be), I think I got an EXCELLENT deal. Still don't know what I'm going to do with it but at this price I can afford to figure that out later.

 

[studor]

I think that to better that deal requires a pair of panty hose and a gun
Can I have that guys name so I can ask him to adopt me?
regards

 

[greg_g]

all the gauges but the fuel gauge work

Yup, sounds like ya done good. And the fuel gauge thing is a common Jinma malady, we've fixed lots of them in these forums.

//greg//

 

[Affordable]

If you do need any parts please let us know,we have one of the largest Jinma parts supplies in the USA.Great buy on the tractor and implements !!!!!

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma parts Superstore "
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

 

[Kernopelli]

Thanks men,
I may have my first issue with it though. I was trying out the bush hog I got with it on some waist high weeds behind the house and after about 20-25 minutes, it seemed like it was stating to lose power so I quit mowing and headed up to the yard, just as I got to the garage it died and wouldn't restart....would barely turn over. The Temp gauge was at "100", which is as high as it shows (which seems odd to me, unless it's in centigrade instead of F..) I let it cool for about a half hour and she fired right up. I did notice the oil gauge was showing about 20lbs at idle and 45-50lbs when I reved it up which concerns me. I don't put much faith in the cheap gauges to start with but do want to get an accurate oil pressure reading.

How much pressure should I have? and What suggestions might you guys offer on checking the pressure ( how to do it) and also on replacing the gauge.

 

[greg_g]

Everything's metric on that tractor, including the gauge indications. So that's definitely 100C, and definitely overheated - since it's supposed to have an 80C thermostat installed. Assuming you checked the coolant level before you started, my guess is that the radiator is blocked with weeds and chaff. Pay particular attention to the area behind the battery.

//greg//

 

[Affordable]

The only way to get a accurate oil pressure reading is with a mechanical gauge,you can get a oil gauge kit at the auto parts for around $ 20.00, remove the oil sender and install the fitting that comes with the gauge and a piece of the tubing,start the tractor and it will give you a reading.We have a gauge we use for testing,you can mount that gauge on the tractor and leave it.I don't know if you have a cluster gauge now or seperate gauges,If you have the cluster you can mount it in the cowling,if you have seperate gauges just replace the oil gauge with your new one.

I would also say that your radiator is plugged up,wash it out good with a hose then blow it out with a air compressor,you may have to do this a few times to get it clean.If the battery is sitting in front of the radiator,remove it so you can get the complete radiator washed clean.

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore "
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

 

[greg_g]

I did notice the oil gauge was showing about 20lbs at idle and 45-50lbs when I reved it up which concerns me. I don't put much faith in the cheap gauges to start with but do want to get an accurate oil pressure reading.

Unless the original owner swapped out the gauge, those are not "lbs" demarcations. Factory gauges are marked in MPa (MegaPascals). The conversion factor is roughly 145 PSI per MPa. Look closely at the gauge face to see if there's a decimal point in front of those numbers. If yes, what you're seeing is actually 0.1 to 0.6 MPa - the metric equivalent of 14.5 to 87 PSI. My tractors idle at about 600 rpm, at which point the oil pressure can be as low as 0.05 MPa (at temperature). Normal operating pressure is typically around 0.3 MPa.

Those pressures you listed - were they noted on a cold engine or during normal operation?

//greg//

 

[carpenter383]

If it got hot enough to loose power and stop running I'd change the oil right away.

 

[Kernopelli]

I cleaned the radiator...didn't appear to be too clogged with seed, chaff etc. but haven't had any more issues with overheating...not even certain that was the problem since it never boiled over. I would like to move the battery for more air flow...anyone done this and if so where did they relocate it? I would also like to change the filters soon, they've been changed at least once in its life because they are dated w/ hrs on them but appear to be OEM and was hoping someone could tell me the NAPA, Wix etc equivalents of fuel and oil filters.

I have to say, I really like this little tractor, some of the parts are a little cheap, and some of the steel seems a little soft but it is a torquey machine, smooth running and just feels substantial and heavy compared to the other tractors I've owned of similar size. Need to sort out the brakes and a few other odds and ends. My middle son won't stay off it. That tractor has motivated him to get more work done in the last few days than he's done in a month! I may just keep this rig and build another FEL and put on it. Heck, my wife even put a picture of her on it, on her "Facebook" page.

 

[greg_g]

I had a pair of 25 hp Jinmas years ago, and had the same problem with crap collecting behind the OE battery. They didn't last long anyway. But rather than relocate them, I just bought lower profile batteries (look at the Group 49 or Group 93 at any auto parts store).

Unfortunately I didn't keep the file that had all the aftermarket crossover numbers. But they're here in the forum archives. You just need the site search engine and a little patience (or another Jinma owner who still has the crossover list).

//greg//

 

[erj]

This is what I use on my 284 with the 385 engine.
RonJ

 

[jswisc]

I fabricated a frame extension and relocated my battery just below the front fiberglass. While brushcutting the temp remains constant, regardless of load.

 

[Kernopelli]

Thanks for all the info!

 

[Kernopelli]

I fabricated a frame extension and relocated my battery just below the front fiberglass. While brushcutting the temp remains constant, regardless of load.

Hey, I was wondering if you could post a pic of th battery relocation? I have a few ideas in mind for mine but so far haven't built anything. Would like to see how you did yours.
Thanks.

 

[jswisc]

I'll take some pix of the new battery location today or tomorrow.

 

[Affordable]

The LE style battery box mounts low below the radiator, you may want to take a look at it,it will bolt on you will still have to make a few modifications depending on your hood,here is a pic. I'm currently out but have more due in about 2-3 weeks


Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
" Your Jinma parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company