Jinma 284

[Diamondpilot]

That is the battery box I have on my 2003 Jinma 254.

Chris

 

[Kernopelli]

The LE style battery box mounts low below the radiator, you may want to take a look at it,it will bolt on you will still have to make a few modifications depending on your hood,here is a pic. I'm currently out but have more due in about 2-3 weeks


Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
" Your Jinma parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

Thanks for the pic. I think I could cut and weld in some pieces on my current weight bracket to resemble that...which is what I had in mind to start with. I like to fabricate and am often accused of being "frugal" so I will probably modify mine instead of buying a new one. I did throw you some business yesterday though. My tach had quit working and I did a search here on the site and got an idea of what I was dealing with. Upon investigation, I found that the censor had a wire that broke inside the resin that holds the magnet and wires. I talked to Jerry ( I think) and ordered a new one from you guys at what I felt was a very reasonable price.

I like this tractor but it was bought on a whim and can't justify keeping it. I am wanting to sell it and the mower and bush hog I got with it and make a little extra cash to do a power steering conversion on my Mitsubishi. At first after cleaning the radiator, I thought I had the temp issue solved but just hadn't used it enough to get the full picture and now realize it is still going to run hot if used for very long periods. The tractor came with a huge battery ( 950 CA's) and I am certain that is at least lending to my continued high engine temps when mowing because it literally covers the bottom half the radiator. I will probably try putting in a smaller battery first and see what kind of difference that makes before I break out the welder. I feel I need to do something before putting it up for sale. In good conscience I don't feel comfortable selling it the way it is.

I really appreciate everyone's help on this.

 

[jswisc]

After seeing what Tommy posted, no need for my pix. Just like that. I have a loader so no weights and bracket to deal with. Bolted right to the frame. Upgraded the battery to a 925 cca at the same time. Last winter she never started so easy.

 

[Affordable]

I have fixed several tractors with the battery mounted in front of the radiator from overheating,the key is you must remove the battery,wash out the raditaor several times also using a air blower,you will be surprised how much dirt will come out on the second and third cleaning also

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales

 

[Kernopelli]

Thanks Tommy, I'll give it another shot. This time with more attention to doing a little better job.

 

[Kernopelli]

Well, I have washed and washed and used compressed air to clean the radiator. I could see and tell it made a difference but am still having the problem. The antifreeze looked and tested good but I flushed and refilled it today with a 50/50 mix of distilled water and a good antifreeze and went out to mow. Ambient temp outside today was probably about 90 degrees and as long as I kept the tractor around 1500RPM and the mower out of heavy stuff I could keep the temp around 80C+. As soon as I ran at more RPM's or load on the tractor the temp started creeping up past 90C.

My mitsubishi does not have a thermostat but I am going to assume these tractors do. Is this correct and if so, where is it located ( guess I can go out and look tomorrow but since I'm on the subject now, might as well ask). I can't really imagine that is the problem...surly if it was stuck closed, the tractor would overheat much faster.

I was hopefull the serious washing I did was going to correct the problem but short of using the power washer, I don't think I could get it any cleaner/clearer. So...I am certainly open to other suggestions from anyone.

 

[greg_g]

... I could keep the temp around 80C+. As soon as I ran at more RPM's or load on the tractor the temp started creeping up past 90C.

Assuming the correct thermostat is installed, 80C is the normal operating temperature - under load. But when you actually apply a normal load, the temp rises. That suggests the thermostat is either not opening, or is of the wrong temperature range. You'll find it located under the engine side of the upper radiator hose.

Remove the thermostat, and determine if it's actually the right temp range. There should be an 80 printed on it somewhere, often either on the brass probe - or on the horizontal flange. That's the equivalent of 176F. Some may have a 70 (158F), that's ok too. But if someone put in an on-road or gasoline engine thermostat, it might have a much higher number - like the common 195F street thermostat. Throw it away. If it's got an 80, it's likely defective. You can test it in boiling water if you wish, but I'd simply replace it.

Once you're confident that you have a correct and properly functioning thermostat, there are a couple other tricks I've learned as a Jinma owner. But let's not cross that bridge till we get there.

By the way, did you actually remove your radiator for cleaning? I'm here to tellya that you cannot do a good job of cleaning a badly clogged radiator while it's still on the tractor. You've got to be able to see through it to be 100% confident that you got all the compacted and super-glued crap cleaned out from between the cooling fins.

//greg//

 

[Kernopelli]

When I say I could see a difference, that is what I was referring to. I didn't remove it but the area behind the battery was not clear ( couldn't see all the way through the radiator). After I finished cleaning, I again took a light to illuminate the back side since the fan made it difficult to see the center part of the radiator. I used degreaser and let it soak for a minute or two between between each cleaning and used 90 psi through a blow gun w/ 6" needle after each washing. I could see clearly though the back side of the entire radiator when done.
I will remove it today for more cleaning and check the thermostat too while I've got it out. Will check back on the site tonight to report the results.

Thanks Greg

 

[carpenter383]

I'd make sure your thermostat is operating correctly first, but a thermostat controls how cool an engine runs not how hot it will get. There is a product called "water wetter" It reduces the surface tension of the coolant, it will help an engine run cooler. More water and less anti-freeze will help it run cooler too.

 

[Kernopelli]

I tested the thermostat and it popped right around 180F so it was OK. Took the radiator out for a thorough washing again and put it back in. Still ran hot. It was about 90 degrees outside again today and as long as I kept the revs about 1500/or not much of a continuous load it would stay around 80+C but more revs or load would take the temp up towards 100C pretty quick, same as before but worth trying.

I started the tractor then took the huge battery that was in it out and hooked up a small 12V battery from an ATV to operate the gauges and found I could mow very heavy stuff at near full throttle and not get over approximately 85C. So I decided to relocate the battery by modifying the front weight bracket, that way there will be no obstruction whatsoever in front of the radiator. I took the new battery out of my Mitsubishi and it was a perfect fit without having to widen the front bracket. Some 2" angle iron and a couple pieces of 1/8" sheet metal, a little cutting,welding and paint and voila, battery relocation completed. Turned out pretty good if I do say so myself. It has currently left me w/o front weights but I am going to take care of that part of the fabrication tomorrow. I feel the problem is solved and can now sell the tractor in good conscience. I really do hate to get rid of this machine but can't justify two tractors. I think I can pay for a new 16" trailer with the profit, and that's something I've needed desperately for a long time.

I sanded and repainted the bush hog and cleaned up the JD finish mower that both came with the tractor. I think I'm going to put it on ebay this week, just can't decide what kind of reserve to put on it..also considering a buy it now price. Any suggestions on that would be welcome as well.
I really appreciate everyone's input. Another TBN success story for the books!

 

[greg_g]

Switching to a low profile battery was one of the followup "tricks" I was going to suggest. But the one that really steadied the operating temp on my Jinmas was the remote air intake. Besides battery blockage, there's that big air cleaner housing in front of the radiator. The voluminous intake creates a vortex or sworl in front of the radiator, which in turn affects flow through the radiator. I went to a farm store and bought five feet of 2" suction hose, and cut it into two sections; one two footer and one three footer. I rotated the metal air intake hole so it was facing up, then put one end of the 3 foot section there. I ran the hose alongside the engine and fuel tank. It sucked cool(er) air from down by my left shin.

This actually made it run too cold in the winter. That's what the two foot section was for. In the fall I'd swap hoses, and run the two foot section over the opposite side of the engine where it picked up warmer air over the exhaust manifold.

//greg//

 

[3RRL]

Good luck with selling your tractor.
Perhaps Tommy can let you know about the reserve price?
I've been following this thread hoping to see what you did will help keep the temperature at (or around) 80C. Unless I missed it, one other area to check is your air filter. When mine gets clogged up, it starts to run hotter. You might take a look at that if you haven't done so already.
Rob-

 

[greg_g]

It sucked cool(er) air from down by my left shin.

What I neglected to add, is that remoting the air intake effectively stills the vortex in front of the radiator - permitting the poor little plastic fan to more effectively draw air through the heat exchanger.

//greg//

 

[Kernopelli]

Thanks Rob (and Greg), The tractor is running great BTW! I have put it on ebay already. I love Ebay and buy quite a bit off it but hate selling things on it....I have had a couple of real idiots totally screw me on purchases. Either no feedback bidders winning and never responding back or "hostage takers" who threaten to give you bad feedback if you don't give them the item or reduce it considerably ( Ebay has since changed their policies so that can't happen any more). I must attract them because my purchasing experience is about 99+ % good, my selling experiences are about 40% bad. Anyway, you can't beat the exposure an item gets.

I always try to end an auction on Sunday night around 7PM local time. I made my template and scheduled it to run for 7 days, ending on Sunday at 7pm. After the auction had been running for awhile, I get up early one morning and try to log in and can't. Turns out Ebay locked my account AND deleted the auction from their system. I finally got a response from them and they told me that I had never sold a tractor on Ebay before so they assumed my account had been hijacked and it was a fraudulent auction.........what the ??????? I asked them why they didn't just contact me and ask, since they have my email account and phone number, which can't be hijacked. Well....."that's just the way we do it. Sorry." was their response. They reset my account and apologized but I had to completely redo the auction which left me a little miffed but the auction is going well.
I decided on what I feel is a very reasonable reserve. It's less than I've ever seen just the tractor sell for on Ebay, plus I am including the implements. I had two bidders immediately and had over 30 "auction watchers" in just two days so I am confident it will sell. The real bidding usually doesn't start until the last hour or two and It's always fun to see how the snipers react during the last few seconds. I have seen auction prices double or triple during the last 5 seconds many times. I also have an old friend who saw it on ebay and called me and is possibly interested in it. He bought a tractor from me once before to resell so maybe he'll end up with it, who knows? I really do hate to see it go though.

BTW Greg, I just noticed that we're "neighbors" I am down in the Paducah and Murray ares often and used to ride dirt bikes around the LBL all the time, also work not too far from the IL/KY border.

 

[bjr]

Why not Graigs Lists and local nickel saver papers? All my sale go there now. I stay off Ebay for all the reasons you listed. Maybe Ebay has seen it's time come and gone, kinda a flash in the pan and the shipping thing just got out of control. Prices for the most part were near retail,so for me, I gave up on Ebay. bjr

 

[psj12]

I have only had one bad selling experience on ebay. That occured when I had a ATV for sale. It seems that someone's account got hyjacked and the perpetrator used it to bid high on every ATV closing that day. The poor lady who's account was hyjacked had purchased 100 or so ATVs. Ebay let her out of all deals and relisted all the closed sales. I did not receive as much on the relisting as I already had bids for on the original listing prior to the hyjacking.

I have found Craigs list to be pretty poor at reaching a large enough audience. Additionally it is fairly localized and most of the things I sell are capable of being shipped.